Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

I broke it quickly...And repeatedly...Chaste White Rebuild

Not at the moment, as my setup is fairly stripped back and stock atm.

There was a fair amount of discussion of the issue a while back, may have even been pre FDOC days, where couple people were getting the issue and tried baffled filler necks. Know Turblown make a fancy one, but sure it'll be top dollar knowing their stuff.

I'm of the opinion that a pure catch can isn't the greatest idea and an Air Oil Seperator with a return is better as it'll catch the excess and return it to the pan.

One thing that did appear necessary was a large enough pipe coming off the filler neck as if it's too small then it appeared to lead to more issues.
 
Trouble shooting continues.

Back from Level Motorsport wiring with a new lambda sub harness yet the problem still exists.

Purchased a 4th NTK sensor - problem still exists.

However I think or rather I hope I’ve found the cause which was a few loose connection to the positive battery terminal in the boot which also gives power to the PDU which In turns powers the whole car, I’ll know if it’s fixed by the time the weekend is over.

Here is what I’m hoping the culprit has been all this time.



If not booked in with Syvecs and Northampton Motorsport early April to see if they can help find the fault.

Whilst all this was going on on I’ve gone through another set of plugs, been chasing misfires, had my injectors cleaned and flow tested as well as compression testing the car as at one point I did consider if I had hurt the engine, luckily I did not.

In other news I bought a spare Holset HX50 with a bigger turbine wheel and larger rear housing. Not sure if I’ll use this one yet but I’m leaning towards doing a back to back when I book dyno. I’m thinking this one with the large turbine wheel and rear housing will be better suited to a semi PP revving to 10k whilst giving up the larger 75mm compressor wheel on current turbo.

The new 70/86 with 28cm housing (1.3 - 1.4 AR approx). Cheap too at only £500.

IMG_2972.jpeg

IMG_2971.jpeg


It’s currently having the rear housing drilled and tapped for back pressure sensor, I collect it Monday and then ship it off to Thermomet for their treatment.

Here are my 2200s being tested, as CNG injectors these do make me nervous and I am contemplated moving to Injector Dynamics 1750s and 2600s, it just deciding if I should stomach the £1300 bill for a set.



IMG_3121.jpeg


Current state of play top left with lambda working.



If I can get through this weekend with no issues then time to finally book the dyno.
 
Fingers crossed for you mate. All the effort you put in will defo pay off!

As for your tubby question - the bigger turbine wheel and rear housing gets my vote. On a semi pp setup like yours it will always do better imo.

Also I've been running those 2200cc cng injectors on mine and they work. I've done close to 20 100-200 pulls and fueling remains reliable and consistent with them. I've also done around 8x 24psi hits with them from 60-90/100mph in 3rd and the injectors do the same thing consistently and reliably. The variance you're seeing less than 3% is a good enough match for an injector this size. I would bag the 1.3k and give these a go.
 
Last edited:
I haven’t posted for a few months, I needed a break from the emotional turmoil.

In short Syvecs believe the lambda sensor issues are as a result of a leaking manifold which in turn is causing a fault with the sensor which seems feasible based on the lambda sensor wiring being replaced and knowing that the lambda sensors I have are all good.

My theory is that due to the manifold being wrapped in Thermomet it’s retained so much heat that the old Greddy manifold (which is likely 20 years old) just hasn’t been able to handle it, I’ve seen EGTs north of 900c (which is its own problem in itself). Also 20 year old super thin Japanese metal is going to struggle with the weight of a very sizeable truck turbo.

I think the lambda sensor worked fine for the initial 2-3 months as the manifold was holding up fine but ultimately it has gradually gotten worse to the point you could really audibly hear the sound of exhaust leak over what is a very noisy semi PP. Coupled with the fact you could smell the exhaust gases really strongly.

To further prove my point as to not waste money ripping off the beautiful Thermomet I invested in a smoke tester which has proven the down pipe and manifold itself were leaking.

The other issue I had been experiencing was the dashboard turning itself off randomly without any rhyme or reason. Interestingly when the car was with Syvecs they noticed a very high reading of EMI likely caused by the M&W boxes. The car is going back to Level Motorsport in November to further investigate this with a view to finding a solution.

In order to resolve the manifold issue I’ve purchased this weekend the Turblown exhaust manifold along with twin Turbosmart wastegates moving away from my big single 60mm gate. I’m told this set up offers superior flow and boost control.

IMG_3783.jpeg


I will of course need to amend my down pipe, oil feed and return as well as the TIP/TEP sensor locations and intercooler piping, all in all more investment that I wanted to avoid but with hindsight I probably should have investing in a better exhaust manifold set up at the inception of this project.

I’ve since had the new HX50 treated to the Thermomet goodness.

IMG_3727.jpeg
IMG_3729.jpeg


During troubleshooting of exhaust leaks I decided to strip the lower intake to take a look at the EGR ports to see if they were the culprit and due to the amount of reversion with the semi PP the exhaust gasket was fucked, it looked burnt in place as seen in pic.

IMG_3641.jpeg


To remedy this I did buy a new gasket from Billet Rotary in AUS but my expectation is this new paper based gasket will likely be ruined in a few months so I’ve commissioned Dobson Gaskets to custom make a gasket made with higher tensile strength, better clamping force, better chemical resistance and of course better heat resistance too. I should have the new gasket in a few weeks.

New one added last week.

IMG_3659.jpeg


Whilst I was pulling the exhaust manifold apart I noticed that one of my EGT probes was bent, again likely due to the heat. It just so happens my tuner now offer a much thicker type of probe which I’ve purchased.

IMG_3599.jpeg


If anyone is interested here is the smoke tester I purchased, it was £40 and for the money is bloody brilliant.

IMG_3674.jpeg


Next steps then are to get the new manifold fitted along with new turbo. Get all the amendments made. Ensure the lambda sensor is reading reliably, get the car tuned again on new injectors as that hasn’t happened yet. Take car to have the EMI checked in November.

2026 hopefully will bring with it a smooth and happy rotary experience. I might even finally get to run full boost with the meth squirting. 😂
 
Last edited:
If you buy a new OEM LIM gasket from Mazda it is metal. They upgraded from the paper one at some point.
Sometimes best to not always trust the aftermarket.

You're probe may have bent if it is stainless steel? At the temperatures of rotary you need inconel really.
The rotary exhaust temperatures is very high and pushing close to the limit of any temperature probe. You say 900 but I've read online it reaching 1200.
 
If you buy a new OEM LIM gasket from Mazda it is metal. They upgraded from the paper one at some point.
Sometimes best to not always trust the aftermarket.

You're probe may have bent if it is stainless steel? At the temperatures of rotary you need inconel really.
The rotary exhaust temperatures is very high and pushing close to the limit of any temperature probe. You say 900 but I've read online it reaching 1200.
I have seen over 1000c on mine at cruise which I don’t think is healthy long term, I think cruise should be 550-700c region personally.

It’s a semi pp remember so I doubt Mazda do a metal gasket hence the custom one. I could be wrong.
 
Ahh sorry yeah didn't think about the PP.

Yeah 1000c doesn't seem normal on cruise. That will certainly reduce the life of the temp probe. Maybe its doing that because all your lambda issues
 
Ahh sorry yeah didn't think about the PP.

Yeah 1000c doesn't seem normal on cruise. That will certainly reduce the life of the temp probe. Maybe its doing that because all your lambda issues
It is, fuelling is way off.
 
I have nothing but good things to say about Turbosource/Turblown. A real pleasure to deal with, very quick response to questions, I purchased from USA on Sunday and arrived with me via DHL by the following Friday.

They even said that I could send back for a refund covering postage if it didn’t fit with my turbo set up.

Good news is it fits perfectly for my smaller HX50, I say “smaller” in reality it’s a 75/76 1.35 AR turbo but I cannot be sure about my slightly larger HX50 which I would prefer to run, the turbine housing is a little bit thicker being a 28cm instead of a 25cm.

Before I can properly test the larger one however I need to open up the bolt holes on the turbo as they are for T4i configuration vs T4, it’s only a few MM on each hole.

Either way it doing to be very close.

IMG_3810.jpeg
IMG_3816.jpeg


I went with the T4 twinscroll EWG option, 2 x ports for EGT probes with dual wastegates. I also picked up 2 x 40mm Turbosmart wastegates along with dump pipes.

A few fitment shots below.

IMG_3813.jpeg
IMG_3812.jpeg
IMG_3811.jpeg


The turbo oil feed will fit fine but will need to lengthen the oil return. The down pipe will need amending as will the intercooler to compressor alloy pipe. (To be fair I need nice new intercooler piping fabricated - it’s on the to do list). I’ll likely have to fuck about with the TIP/TEP sensor locations too.

As it fits I’ve sent the manifold straight back out for the Thermo Met treatment.

Next job is to find a local TIG welder/fabricator to amend down pipe and boost hose.

Also waiting on feedback from Thermo Met as to the state of play with the old Greddy manifold. Keen to see what the damage looks like under the wrap.
 
Okay, Thermo Met wrap removed to show a nice crack on old Greddy. @Joeybratten also suggests some bracing is missing.

There is also a crack at the turbo flange too. Buying a new manifold was the right call.

12087080-89d7-40d9-bf22-b778905321cf.jpeg
 
Bit more progress these last few evenings.

Custom inlet gasket on.
IMG_3887.webp


Manifold fitted.
IMG_3872.webp

IMG_3871.webp


Turbo on.
IMG_3881.webp


Have amended and sorted oil feed and return.

Quick trip over to Forge Motorsport for some 4” pipe to extend air filter.
IMG_3885.webp

IMG_3897.webp


Had to gently massage the turbine housing to allow a bit of a gap between lower inlet.

IMG_3889.webp


Tonight I tackled the dual wastegates and screamers.
IMG_3901.webp

IMG_3902.webp

IMG_3903.webp

IMG_3907.webp

IMG_3908.webp


Random shot of some billet goodness. 70mm wheel.

IMG_3898.webp


Just the wastegate lines to amend and good to go.

Car is off for down pipe fabrication Tuesday, this time next week it should be up running for tuning.
 
Back
Top