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Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build

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The weather’s been awful lately, so I haven’t had a proper chance to get back out in the RX7. Managed a few short runs in the M3 during some damp, cold patches but with almost no traction, I wasn’t about to risk pushing 30+ psi in the RX7 when even the heavier, lower-powered M3 was struggling to hook up.

Good numbers for a E92 M3 considering conditions were not ideal. However, if my RX7 ran these numbers at low boost - I'd be throwing the draggy and my RX7 in the river! View attachment 42662:ROFLMAO:
View attachment 42663

On a related note, curious what everyone’s running for engine oil and premix on high-boost, high-power 13Bs? Always interested to see what’s working. Anyone know what Mazda's race teams were using?
I use valvoline 10/60 and Millers KR2T premix
 
nice one and thanks for sharing.

Are you using the 10/60 because of semi p and the nature of the high revving rotors? how much premix are you using
I use it as I see much better oil pressure, it tends to break down a lot less (remember I have potential for a lot of meth) meaning I don’t need to change as often (although I tend to change regularly).

100ml 2 stroke per 10 litres of fuel.
 
Owner: Kosta
Instagram: @theringdorito

Engine:
13B Streetport
Turbo: BW 362 @ 1.2 bar
Power: ~450 hp
WMI: Water/meth injection
Brakes: KSport front, stock rear
Chassis: Fully caged, 1100 kg
Suspension: Öhlins DFV (11 kg)
Tyres: Nankang CRS

Result: The fastest FD RX-7 in the world with a 7:23 BTG at the Nürburgring—yes, with a passenger.

This is one of the most underrated, modestly-spec’d FD builds out there and proof that you don’t need wild power or exotic parts to chase down supercars in 2025. A simple, achievable setup delivering truly insane real-world results.

Kosta isn’t just a fast driver; he’s a Porsche GT3/RS instructor at Spa, so this car is absolutely in the right hands. With a bit more refinement, he might just be the first FD owner ever to crack a sub-7 at the Green Hell.

I’m beyond excited to see it happen.

Until then… enjoy the lap:
 
Hit 27 psi in this perfect boost weather, but I underestimated how hard it is to get heat into Michelin Cup 2s. Even after 2–3 miles of warming them up, the rear broke traction almost instantly during my PB attempt—pretty sketchy. I’ll probably switch to a more cold-friendly street tire like the Pilot Sport 5 for the next runs.

The car just needs to hook and shift cleanly and I’m confident a low-5s 100–200 is there without touching the tune. I managed a 5.58 in the summer heat, so shaving a few tenths now should be doable.

Dyno session is booked for Friday, so I’m hoping to get some numbers at 30 psi on pump fuel with WMI. That should give a good idea for what a modern street-ported G35 1050 setup can realistically achieve. Watch this space and pray for me!
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Round 2 - Dyno Day

In fairness, the day started off rocky as my car battery was flat, and I wasn’t sure it would even have enough juice to get going or make it to the dyno booking on time, and as it happens in pure rotary fashion I turned up late. Thankfully, the shop was flexible and still fit me in. Once on the dyno, everything went smoothly, and I was able to complete all the runs without any issues.

I must have had 14-15 pulls at high boost to figure out what the engine wanted fueling/afr/timing wise.
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High Boost Peak: 30psi
536.4 whp / 481.5 wtq
≈617 hp / 554 lb-ft (engine, 13% loss)

Low Boost Peak: 16psi
412.3 whp / 340.7 wtq
≈474.0 hp / 391.6 lb-ft (engine, 13% loss)


dyno .jpg

When I pushed past 30 psi the power and torque started dropping off to the 520rwhp range, so I backed off. The boost settled at 29–30 psi and power and torque went right back to around the 535 rwhp and 480 lb-ft. Not bad at all for a baby G35 and a street port on pump gas with WMI.

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The setup isn’t the most efficient and has a lot of restrictions, but it performs reliably and consistently on the street and track, and I’m hoping to get a few Dragy runs in soon and hopefully a couple with flat shift.
  • Garrett G35-1050 (v-band, 1.21 A/R)
  • 13B Streetport balanced and studded
  • HKS cast T4 manifold with v-band adapter
  • Full 4" downpipe and exhaust
  • Stock upper intake manifold
  • Haltech IGN coils
  • 4× 2200cc Bosch injectors
  • 2× ASNU 1500cc secondary injectors
2026 Efficiency Mods
  • Garrett G40-900 (1.19 A/R)
  • 1.5" schedule T4 twin-pulse exhaust manifold or will the Turblown v2 exhaust mani be a better choice for response and flow?
  • Turblown upper intake manifold
The dyno shop Garage Whifbitz should send me higher quality dyno sheets and videos of the high boost pulls next week.
 
Dyno shop sent me the below - the 522rwhp was for 31psi where I lost power. Dyno gurus seem to think I need to use a Mainline Hub Dyno because the roller dyno is unable to get an accurate reading because the tyres are slipping and its unable to produce an accurate power figure above 30psi. When boost was dropped to 29-30psi the power settles at 535ish rwhp and around the 480wtq.

The massive difference since I was last on this dyno is picking up +110wtq and modest +35rwhp.
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Uncorrected numbers - these are no doubt wrong but makes quite the difference.
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I will try to continue testing on draggy 100-200 as I dont have a mainline pro hub dyno near me so hopefully get a better idea if 31-32psi in the real world nets gains. At the moment the setup is traction limited because the cup 2s cannot hook and slip immediately under boost. I think the surface temps are far too cold 0-1*C for a semi slick to work well. I may need a really soft compound or winter tyres to see if my 100-200 improves.
 
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I’ve been spending some time looking over the logs from my 5.58s 100–200km/h PB, and it’s been a real eye-opener. While the number is solid, the data shows the boost delivery was actually a bit "lazy." In fairness, I was doing everything I could to protect 3rd gear on the OEM box while also being unsure where the real limit of the G35-1050 sat on my street port.

On that 5.58s run, I had 10psi at 4500rpm, 20psi at 5000rpm, and a peak of 27.5psi by 6300rpm. By the time I hit the 8200rpm redline, it had already tapered down to 26psi. The car was essentially waiting for the turbo to wake up at the start and losing steam at the finish line. It was a safe, conservative curve, but it wasn't maximizing the potential of the G-Series aero. As you can see below I was making 22.5psi on my PB run by 5300rpm.
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The plan now is to move from that "lazy mountain" profile to a "tabletop" profile. I’m going to be a lot more aggressive with the boost ramp at the start and just pray that 3rd gear decides to stay in the chat rather than exiting through the casing. To help with the extra mid-range violence, I’m finally retiring my 2017-spec 265 Cup 2s. They hooked surprisingly hard for their age in the summer heat, but I’ve got a much fresher set of 2021-spec 295/30/18 Cup 2s going on for next year to make sure all that extra torque actually hits the tarmac. I will eventually get a fresh set of dot 26 spec rubber incase I struggle with the dot 21 spec cup 2s.

Instead of hitting 27psi at 6300rpm on my previous PB run, I’m able to hit 29-30psi by 5300rpm nearly 1,000rpm earlier. I’ll then hold that 30psi dead-flat all the way to 8000rpm. To keep things sensible and give the engine a break, I’ll aggressively bleed boost above 8k by killing the duty cycle to drop it back down to the 20-24psi range.
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I’ve gained a lot of faith in this G35 lately and I hope that is not misplaced as I'm no expert in reading turbo maps but It got me into the mid-5s so easily that I realized I was only tickling its efficiency range. This turbo (imo) likes high pressure ratios, and holding 30psi flat should put the compressor right in its happy place, well I HOPE and Fingers Crossed!

I’m keeping my expectations grounded, but realistically if 3rd gear survives the trauma and it holds 30psi to the redline, I’m hoping to dip right into the low 5-second bracket because I have more area under the curve now! That would be an insane result for a turbo this size on a street port and pump fuel. However, If I do this and see zero gains from my previous run, then we’ll know the G35 is officially maxed out and there’s no point in chasing 32psi just to turn the turbo into an expensive heat pump.

This will likely be my final update for the year. I’m looking forward to testing in the real world soon but for now taking a step back to enjoy the holidays. I wish you all a festive and well-deserved break, and I’ll catch up with everyone after a bit of rest in the New Year.

Drive safe and enjoy the break!
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__________________
Insta - @copyninja_fd
 
Beutifull car! Man the car is fast, Awsome to see your progress
 
Thanks mate, its getting there...wanna see what 30-32psi does before stepping up to a bigger turbo!
 
I thought I’d finally sit down and write a proper update on the car, because the last few months have been less about throwing parts at it and more about enjoying the setup as it came out of winter hibernation and testing consistency and reliability on 99ron pump fuel (93 octane US pump fuel i believe) and look to the future and think about what Ethanol blends I could run which can give the best bang for buck working alongisde the current WMI system which I think is essential as i'm not going to run full E85 or Methanol fuel.

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To recap current setup is fairly straightforward on paper: 13B large street port, G35-1050 (1.21), pump fuel with Renegade octane booster, and 60/40 WMI, running around 26–27psi. At that level, the car managed a 5.58s 100–200, and more importantly, it wasn’t a one-off. It would consistently sit in the mid 5s, run after run in summer heat. That consistency is what made me start questioning things because it didn’t feel like the limit of the setup, just the limit of what I was extracting from it. However, it's a great place to be on a streetport and I genuinely do not need more power or acceleration for street or track use. To put this into perspective an AMG GTR Black Series or a GT2 RS Porsche run similar acceleration numbers and both are monster on track especially the Nurburgring. In fairness, really really happy with the current setup and how it performs and I've enjoyed that as I've got back into testing this year.

Over winter, instead of pushing harder, I went the other way. Same boost, same general setup, but in much better conditions around 10°C ambient. On paper, it should’ve been quicker. Cooler, denser air, more power. I went out expecting it to feel stronger and finally dip lower into the 5s.

But it didn’t.

The car just kept returning 5.60, 5.61, 5.62. Again and again. No real world improvement. If anything, it sometimes felt slightly worse and very sketchy. The reason was obvious, Traction or lack thereof. The 265 cup 2s, no matter what I did; the tyres did not switch on and could not put the power down. Traction really struggled in the midrange, especially as the boost comes in hard, you can feel there’s more there, but it’s not useable or controlled. That old saying "power without control is meaningless" or "spinning's not winning" comes to mind. The torque is blowing the tyres off in 3rd gear and i'm being forced to short shift into 4th and its still running consistent 5.6s range which is a testament that at this stage the car isn’t power-limited, it’s traction-limited.

To combat traction issues I moved from a 265 to a 295 rear tyre, which subjectively helped, but it hasn’t solved it. The car still struggles to put the power down, especially in that midrange where everything comes on strong. You can feel it wanting to go faster, but it just can’t translate it cleanly into forward motion.

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I'm going to do some tuning and kill off some torque in the midrange to get the tyres to hook, make it more linear, boring stuff!! Also i believe the other issue is perhaps street focused tyres like ps5 or ps4s would work better in the cold as Cup 2s are well out of their comfort zone at 10*C ambient temps.

I’ve also got a Turblown UIM going on tomorrow, which should help with airflow and wmi distribution, especially up top. After that, it’s straight back out testing to see what it actually does in the real world. The question on everyone's mind including my own...how far will a G35 go or is the 5.5 to 5.6s the ceiling of real world performance on this turbo? Hopefully we should find out soon.

At this point, it feels less like chasing a number and more like figuring out how to let the car do what it’s already capable of.

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My initial install failed because of an oversight on my part. The OEM IACV didn’t clear the Haltech IGN coils mounted on top of the engine. That left me with two options which was to switch to a DBW throttle body to retain proper idle control, or blank it off and hope for the best!

To keep things simple and get the car running quickly, I chose to blank it off. My main concern was if the engine would idle properly, but I also wanted to know how the Turblown UIM manifold performs without introducing additional variables. I wasn’t sure if the 82mm DBW throttle body would be a major improvement over the stock unit for airflow.

I’ve also added two WMI nozzles an AEM V3 positioned in the middle of the manifold, and an older V2 nozzle before the throttle body. As for running both V2 and V3 nozzles it wasn’t intentional. My previous V3 nozzle turned out to be faulty and wasn’t atomising at all (it was basically acting like an open hose), so I replaced it. The current setup atomises properly, so I’ll stick with it for now.

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All buttoned up and ready to go. I’m looking forward to seeing how the UIM manifold performs. The only changes are the UIM and removal of the IACV everything else, including the throttle body and intake piping, remains the same as it was with the stock UIM. That should make it easier to see what impact the manifold alone has. I think new UIM already looks far better than the stock setup.
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Before I do a full send, I’m going to spend some time on the WMI system. The plan is to fit a larger WMI tank and wire in the AEM arm switch and failsafe into the Link G4X. I’ll be keeping the AEM progressive controller for now, as I’m happy with it. This will be a basic WMI integration into the G4X with basic logic so:
  1. The ECU knows when the WMI system is armed and ready before switching to the WMI Map.
  2. It can confirm there’s sufficient fluid, so it stays on the WMI map.
  3. If the system isn’t armed, fluid is low, or flow drops, the ECU will prevent the engine from reaching high boost.
It should have been in place years ago but better late than never. This will add another layer of safety into the ECU just in case there is some kinda failure in the WMI system.

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Weather is improving so i'm sure the tyres will switch on in the next few runs. Watch this space.
 
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