rx_dreamer
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Awesome!!
Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build
- Thread starter Copyninja
- Start date
rx_dreamer
Well-known member
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Actually I was poodling home in my GLC last week, tbh I don't even know what HP it has 
but it does have an excellent gearbox.
But stamp on the gas at 100kph and you can count to 5.5 before you get to 115kph
but it does have an excellent gearbox.But stamp on the gas at 100kph and you can count to 5.5 before you get to 115kph
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Massive Progress with the New Fuel System – 100-200 Times in the Mid 5s!
Just wrapped up 12x 100-200km/h pulls at 26–27psi (1.8 to 1.9ish bar) to put the new fuel system through its paces, and honestly… I’m blown away. I never thought I’d be hitting mid 5-second times, especially in summer heat but here we are! Previously, I was sitting in the 5.9 to 6.2s range, which was decent but now I’m seeing consistent runs between 5.5 to 5.7s. That’s a serious step forward. Went out today in even hotter conditions and still pulled a 5.6s.
Current PB is 5.58s, which is insane for a streetported 13B on pump fuel with a stock box. But when I look at the bigger picture out of 12 runs, my average sits in the 5.70s. In this heat, that kind of consistency is something I’m really happy with.
It’s not the fastest or most efficient "sex spec" setup's out there… but somehow, it’s still punching way above its weight. This whole build is starting to feel like a true grassroots underdog story, and who doesn't like that!
Still on pump fuel, still on the stock box, still reliable. Winter testing usually brings the better numbers (boost season, baby), so I’ve got no doubt the real PBs will come later this year! Plus maybe just maybe a new map sensor?!? Watch this space!
Overall, Mid 5s, 12 consistent runs, streetport, stock box, pump fuel… can’t ask for much more right now in summer heat. The little rotor that could!
Just wrapped up 12x 100-200km/h pulls at 26–27psi (1.8 to 1.9ish bar) to put the new fuel system through its paces, and honestly… I’m blown away. I never thought I’d be hitting mid 5-second times, especially in summer heat but here we are! Previously, I was sitting in the 5.9 to 6.2s range, which was decent but now I’m seeing consistent runs between 5.5 to 5.7s. That’s a serious step forward. Went out today in even hotter conditions and still pulled a 5.6s.
Current PB is 5.58s, which is insane for a streetported 13B on pump fuel with a stock box. But when I look at the bigger picture out of 12 runs, my average sits in the 5.70s. In this heat, that kind of consistency is something I’m really happy with.
It’s not the fastest or most efficient "sex spec" setup's out there… but somehow, it’s still punching way above its weight. This whole build is starting to feel like a true grassroots underdog story, and who doesn't like that!
Still on pump fuel, still on the stock box, still reliable. Winter testing usually brings the better numbers (boost season, baby), so I’ve got no doubt the real PBs will come later this year! Plus maybe just maybe a new map sensor?!? Watch this space!
Overall, Mid 5s, 12 consistent runs, streetport, stock box, pump fuel… can’t ask for much more right now in summer heat. The little rotor that could!
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Still out here testing, and the last 3 runs averaged 5.62s. Safe to say I’ve got 27psi as good as its going to get. Consistently and reliably in the 5.5 to 5.6 range now.
When you're checking power levels with 100–200 pulls, it’s easy to get caught up in the chase, always wanting more, always looking for a quicker number. But every now and then, it’s worth stepping back to really appreciate what those numbers represent in the real world, especially when you compare them to what other cars are doing at similar times.
Some serious pieces of kit on that list. Supercars and exotics that cost three, five, even ten times more than an FD and yet, here we are, an FD on pump fuel knocking on the 5.5s range, right there with them. It just goes to show, when it’s built right and dialed in, the FD isn’t just keeping up it’s punching way above its weight. Consistently hitting those numbers puts it in a league few expected, and that’s what makes it so satisfying. Lower the boost and it will do 400hp all day long but up the boost and the performance comes to meet you! I guess new turbo tech isn't just all hype! It actually works!
Just to put things into perspective, my setup is far from the most efficient. I’m still using
An old-school HKS cast iron manifold
A Radtec V-mount kit some would debate is only good for 400hp
Stock UIM when something like the Turblown or new Race only piece would be a step up.
With a more refined and efficient setup, there’s no doubt someone could achieve even better results. It really shows there’s still plenty of potential left on the table. If you have a better setup you should expect more!
Even though my setup isn’t the most efficient, the FD has been consistently hitting reliable 5.5 to 5.6 second runs every time. Since the 3-bar MAP sensor is almost maxed out, I was ready to wrap up the G35-1050 chapter, it felt like the perfect point to stop. You know what they say: sometimes it’s best to get out while you’re ahead.
But then Omar (Raceonly) stepped up in a big way. He was genuinely impressed that I managed to drive into the 5.5s with the current setup, and being the absolute legend he is, he offered to send over a 4-bar Raceonly MAP sensor to keep the journey going. Huge shoutout to him, not just for the part, but for being a great sport and supporting the madness. Really grateful for that!
So for now, I’m taking a well-deserved breather and enjoying the car in the twisties until the new sensor arrives. Once it’s in, I'll carefully start pushing into the 29–32psi range to see if there’s a little more magic left. I'm still aiming for consistency and reliability as we’re definitely stepping into the zone of diminishing returns, but with the progress so far, I’m excited to see just how far the baby G35 1050 can go.
Let’s keep it rolling!
When you're checking power levels with 100–200 pulls, it’s easy to get caught up in the chase, always wanting more, always looking for a quicker number. But every now and then, it’s worth stepping back to really appreciate what those numbers represent in the real world, especially when you compare them to what other cars are doing at similar times.
| 5.48 | 2020 McLaren 600LT Spider | |
| 5.51 | 2021 Ferrari 812 GTS | |
| 5.5 | 2016 Audi R8 V10 Supercharged MTM 802HP | |
| 5.59 | 2015 Porsche 991.1 Turbo S 700HP | |
| 5.6 | 1994 Audi S2 709HP | |
| 5.61 | 2020 Audi RS7 950HP BTM Turbo | |
| 5.62 | 2020 Lamborghini Aventador SVJ Roadster | |
| 5.63 | 2021 Mercedes AMG GT Black Series | |
| 5.65 | 2023 BMW M3 CS 750HP | |
| 5.68 | 2021 BMW M5 CS G-Power 820HP | |
| 5.69 | 2021 Lamborghini Huracan STO | |
| 5.7 | 2020 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera LCE 800HP | |
| 5.73 | 2020 McLaren 570GT | |
| 5.75 | 2016 Ferrari 488 GTB |
Some serious pieces of kit on that list. Supercars and exotics that cost three, five, even ten times more than an FD and yet, here we are, an FD on pump fuel knocking on the 5.5s range, right there with them. It just goes to show, when it’s built right and dialed in, the FD isn’t just keeping up it’s punching way above its weight. Consistently hitting those numbers puts it in a league few expected, and that’s what makes it so satisfying. Lower the boost and it will do 400hp all day long but up the boost and the performance comes to meet you! I guess new turbo tech isn't just all hype! It actually works!
Just to put things into perspective, my setup is far from the most efficient. I’m still using
An old-school HKS cast iron manifold
A Radtec V-mount kit some would debate is only good for 400hp
Stock UIM when something like the Turblown or new Race only piece would be a step up.
With a more refined and efficient setup, there’s no doubt someone could achieve even better results. It really shows there’s still plenty of potential left on the table. If you have a better setup you should expect more!
Even though my setup isn’t the most efficient, the FD has been consistently hitting reliable 5.5 to 5.6 second runs every time. Since the 3-bar MAP sensor is almost maxed out, I was ready to wrap up the G35-1050 chapter, it felt like the perfect point to stop. You know what they say: sometimes it’s best to get out while you’re ahead.
But then Omar (Raceonly) stepped up in a big way. He was genuinely impressed that I managed to drive into the 5.5s with the current setup, and being the absolute legend he is, he offered to send over a 4-bar Raceonly MAP sensor to keep the journey going. Huge shoutout to him, not just for the part, but for being a great sport and supporting the madness. Really grateful for that!
So for now, I’m taking a well-deserved breather and enjoying the car in the twisties until the new sensor arrives. Once it’s in, I'll carefully start pushing into the 29–32psi range to see if there’s a little more magic left. I'm still aiming for consistency and reliability as we’re definitely stepping into the zone of diminishing returns, but with the progress so far, I’m excited to see just how far the baby G35 1050 can go.
Let’s keep it rolling!
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- Feb 18, 2018
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Thanks and yes that could be very likely!Nice work dude.
Omar is a gent for sure!
Maybe you’ll get bored of the g35 when I need a new turb
The G35 is a mad turbo.
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- Feb 18, 2018
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- 674
Before Omar's sub-4 second 100-200 km/h runs, he posted a draggy time of 5.18 seconds at approximately 28 psi.
Precision 6885 psi, Bridgeport, DCT
Nath's run at 29psi was strangely also completed also in 5.18s.
G42 1200
Dog Box
Bridgeport
The key takeaway being two efficiently impressive setups running a 13B bridgeport with a properly sized turbo, both pushing similar boost levels and achieving 100-200 km/h times in the low 5-second range.
Omar kindly shared a setup from one of his customers featuring a G40-1150 T4 with a 1.19 AR on a 13b bridgeport, running 25 psi. The car uses the stock FD gearbox, so there are two granny shifts involved. Despite that, the time is still incredibly impressive. If the owner were to re-run the test with dragy overlay, I’m confident they could hit mid-5s for the 100-200 km/h range, 5.5-5.6s is potentially possible. However, because 2 manual shifts were involved the time was 5.94s
While we wait for the new Raceonly 4-bar MAP sensor to arrive, this seemed like a good time to revisit the performance comparison above, now that we have Dragy-verified data for a G35-1050 streetport setup at 27 psi.
In real-world terms, more efficient builds like Omar’s Precision 6885 Bridgeport with DCT and Nath’s G42-1200 Bridgeport with a dogbox have both recorded 5.18s 100–200 km/h times at 28–29 psi. By comparison, my G35-1050 on a streetport with an oem box is running 5.5–5.6s at similar boost (1-2psi less). That’s a ~0.4s difference — and realistically, the G35 is unlikely to close that gap.
The G35-1050 has done well for its size and spool characteristics, but turbine efficiency is clearly the limiting factor at this power/boost level. Setups using larger and more efficient turbos like the G42-1200c or 6885 are delivering clear gains in this performance window. The difference isn’t just on paper; it shows up in actual acceleration numbers but right now, that 0.4s gap at similar boost is significant. This is what an efficient setup is capable of, it's free performance.
We’ll still push 30–32 psi on the G35 and see how far it goes, but at similar boost, being 0.4s slower from 100–200 km/h is significant. For context, I’ve seen friends spend £30–40k chasing just the next half second on Dragy and that’s the reality of performance at this level. Every 0.4 to 0.5s on draggy 100-200 is a different class and a massive step up in performance. As they say, the pursuit of performance isn’t cheap...especially if a 13b is involved!
Updated Leader board!
Precision 6885 psi, Bridgeport, DCT
Nath's run at 29psi was strangely also completed also in 5.18s.
G42 1200
Dog Box
Bridgeport
The key takeaway being two efficiently impressive setups running a 13B bridgeport with a properly sized turbo, both pushing similar boost levels and achieving 100-200 km/h times in the low 5-second range.
Omar kindly shared a setup from one of his customers featuring a G40-1150 T4 with a 1.19 AR on a 13b bridgeport, running 25 psi. The car uses the stock FD gearbox, so there are two granny shifts involved. Despite that, the time is still incredibly impressive. If the owner were to re-run the test with dragy overlay, I’m confident they could hit mid-5s for the 100-200 km/h range, 5.5-5.6s is potentially possible. However, because 2 manual shifts were involved the time was 5.94s
While we wait for the new Raceonly 4-bar MAP sensor to arrive, this seemed like a good time to revisit the performance comparison above, now that we have Dragy-verified data for a G35-1050 streetport setup at 27 psi.
In real-world terms, more efficient builds like Omar’s Precision 6885 Bridgeport with DCT and Nath’s G42-1200 Bridgeport with a dogbox have both recorded 5.18s 100–200 km/h times at 28–29 psi. By comparison, my G35-1050 on a streetport with an oem box is running 5.5–5.6s at similar boost (1-2psi less). That’s a ~0.4s difference — and realistically, the G35 is unlikely to close that gap.
The G35-1050 has done well for its size and spool characteristics, but turbine efficiency is clearly the limiting factor at this power/boost level. Setups using larger and more efficient turbos like the G42-1200c or 6885 are delivering clear gains in this performance window. The difference isn’t just on paper; it shows up in actual acceleration numbers but right now, that 0.4s gap at similar boost is significant. This is what an efficient setup is capable of, it's free performance.
We’ll still push 30–32 psi on the G35 and see how far it goes, but at similar boost, being 0.4s slower from 100–200 km/h is significant. For context, I’ve seen friends spend £30–40k chasing just the next half second on Dragy and that’s the reality of performance at this level. Every 0.4 to 0.5s on draggy 100-200 is a different class and a massive step up in performance. As they say, the pursuit of performance isn’t cheap...especially if a 13b is involved!
Updated Leader board!
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ohhh 13b only. I feel discriminatedFDOC yeah boy! Remember, dont get too fast. The faster you get the less people ill be there to help you out. Can i join in on they times too?
is this for RWD versions of the RX7 too? jokes. awsome job my man
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Yes you absolutely can...put a 13b in and run a time...i know you can do it haha!ohhh 13b only. I feel discriminated
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even if im still AWD? Im searching for some 2's now. 2.9 on the street the ultimate goal.Yes you absolutely can...put a 13b in and run a time...i know you can do it haha!
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Would have to be 13b rwd. That's insanely quick....iirc esmotors 1500whp 992 turbo s's do around low 3s. 2.9s would be insane. Would that be on the VR6 platform?
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Big thanks to Omar from Raceonly for generously giving me a 4-bar MAP sensor, and to Tim for picking it up while on holiday in Australia. Tim took the time to visit Omar’s amazing shop, got a ride in a monstrous 20B single-turbo and brought the sensor back for me. It’s time to send my 13B to the moon, go big or go home!
That said, it’s never all smooth sailing when 13bs are involved and there’s always the next challenge. This time, I’ve spotted a leak in the cooling system, so I’m draining all the fluid and taking the opportunity to do some routine maintenance, including replacing the hoses.
So I need to fix the cooling system leak, install the new MAP sensor, get it calibrated, and start pushing boost. Hopefully, the stock box can handle it, time will tell. Will be great to get up to 33-35psi in the mid range like below 7k rpm and if no improvements then I know the G35 1050 is cooked and cant do anymore.
I saw Garrett just dropped the new G35-990 (about 60hp less than the 1050), but on paper it trades peak power for better response, lower EMAP, and similar overall punch. Definitely tempted to test it out. Meanwhile, my G40-900 is just sitting there, staring at me like, “Bruh… it’s my turn to play!”
That said, it’s never all smooth sailing when 13bs are involved and there’s always the next challenge. This time, I’ve spotted a leak in the cooling system, so I’m draining all the fluid and taking the opportunity to do some routine maintenance, including replacing the hoses.
So I need to fix the cooling system leak, install the new MAP sensor, get it calibrated, and start pushing boost. Hopefully, the stock box can handle it, time will tell. Will be great to get up to 33-35psi in the mid range like below 7k rpm and if no improvements then I know the G35 1050 is cooked and cant do anymore.
I saw Garrett just dropped the new G35-990 (about 60hp less than the 1050), but on paper it trades peak power for better response, lower EMAP, and similar overall punch. Definitely tempted to test it out. Meanwhile, my G40-900 is just sitting there, staring at me like, “Bruh… it’s my turn to play!”
Joeybratten
Active member
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You'd net more response going to a divided housing. Would be a good data capture
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I’ve been enjoying some downtime with my newborn lately, doing the whole “grown-up adulting” thing with the family. The X5 has been a dream in that regard which makes life so much easier with the baby, especially with the 360° rotating seat that lets me get him in and out in seconds. I'm starting to understand why the Suv's are soooo popular.
The X5 was in for routine servicing the past few days, so I pulled the M3 out for family duties. Let’s just say THE WIFE was less than impressed!
. I’d been neglecting the M3 while focusing on getting the FD into the 5.5s, so it was nice to reconnect with it. Honestly, the M3 really is a proper driver’s car. You can feel the M Division magic, the throttle pedal is so linear and predictable it feels like an extension of yourself. Performance is easy to extract and the response is instant. An Absolute masterpiece. The downside compared to the FD? It absolutely devours tires and brakes when you start pushing it. My FD lacks the throttle response and linearity compared to the NA v8...but at this point I am comparing apples and oranges...both are amazing and devour the twisties in their own way. The FD is definitely no slouch either, in its 450–500hp boost setting, it delivers power in the twisties the M3 could only dream of.
Back to the FD, I’ve done another ~25 runs in the 100–200 range, sitting consistently in the 5.5–5.6s. But something felt off… coolant temps were all over the place. My first thought was, “That’s it, the engine’s cooked after 450 runs.” I was ready to finally go Semi PP but unfortunately, I was wrong. I already suspected an issue with the cooling system. Initially I thought maybe the coolant seals had failed (or were starting to). So I got my mate Kev to take a look a few days ago. He pressurized the system with the engine off and found the culprit within minutes. The coolant line highlighted below from the engine to the turbo had two separate leaks. So that explains the erratic coolant temps and consistent loss of coolant. Anyways I'm glad this was found and so quickly.
So the next question is, how do I improve my current AN6 stainless rubber lines? Are PTFE/Teflon hoses the way to go?
Some of you eagle-eyed folks may have noticed I’ve been running stainless rubber hoses with a jubilee clip on the engine… not exactly the prettiest solution. How can I clean this up without pulling the engine out?
What are track-spec FDs running with good reliability? Ideally, I’d like a proper fit-and-forget solution. To be fair, these coolant lines have been on since 2020, have survived around 450+ heat cycles, and seen a lot of track abuse, so I’m not overly concerned that they’ve finally given up. But I’d definitely appreciate some input on how to make these coolant lines better going forward.
At both sides of the turbo, I’m using the OEM Garrett-supplied setup M14 x 1.50 to -6AN fittings with 90° AN6 hose ends. That part looks spot on, unlike the jubilee connectors on the engine side.
The X5 was in for routine servicing the past few days, so I pulled the M3 out for family duties. Let’s just say THE WIFE was less than impressed!
. I’d been neglecting the M3 while focusing on getting the FD into the 5.5s, so it was nice to reconnect with it. Honestly, the M3 really is a proper driver’s car. You can feel the M Division magic, the throttle pedal is so linear and predictable it feels like an extension of yourself. Performance is easy to extract and the response is instant. An Absolute masterpiece. The downside compared to the FD? It absolutely devours tires and brakes when you start pushing it. My FD lacks the throttle response and linearity compared to the NA v8...but at this point I am comparing apples and oranges...both are amazing and devour the twisties in their own way. The FD is definitely no slouch either, in its 450–500hp boost setting, it delivers power in the twisties the M3 could only dream of. Back to the FD, I’ve done another ~25 runs in the 100–200 range, sitting consistently in the 5.5–5.6s. But something felt off… coolant temps were all over the place. My first thought was, “That’s it, the engine’s cooked after 450 runs.” I was ready to finally go Semi PP but unfortunately, I was wrong. I already suspected an issue with the cooling system. Initially I thought maybe the coolant seals had failed (or were starting to). So I got my mate Kev to take a look a few days ago. He pressurized the system with the engine off and found the culprit within minutes. The coolant line highlighted below from the engine to the turbo had two separate leaks. So that explains the erratic coolant temps and consistent loss of coolant. Anyways I'm glad this was found and so quickly.
So the next question is, how do I improve my current AN6 stainless rubber lines? Are PTFE/Teflon hoses the way to go?
Some of you eagle-eyed folks may have noticed I’ve been running stainless rubber hoses with a jubilee clip on the engine… not exactly the prettiest solution. How can I clean this up without pulling the engine out?
What are track-spec FDs running with good reliability? Ideally, I’d like a proper fit-and-forget solution. To be fair, these coolant lines have been on since 2020, have survived around 450+ heat cycles, and seen a lot of track abuse, so I’m not overly concerned that they’ve finally given up. But I’d definitely appreciate some input on how to make these coolant lines better going forward.
At both sides of the turbo, I’m using the OEM Garrett-supplied setup M14 x 1.50 to -6AN fittings with 90° AN6 hose ends. That part looks spot on, unlike the jubilee connectors on the engine side.
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- Feb 18, 2018
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- 674
Coolant Leak... Solved! Full Throttle Engaged! 
Alright everyone, After a short time away and wondering if this time I cooked the engine, it seems attention to detail paid off as I was noticing small amounts of coolant loss and suspected a leak. The culprit was a sneaky coolant leak from a hose between the turbo and the engine. It was a pain, but the rotary heart is now beating strong and leak-free once again. Crisis averted! The small things matter!!The Solution
AN6 PTFE nylon braided lines with Heat protection fire sleeve to help it live a bit longer than the stainless rubber line.
New Gear Acquired: RACEONLY 4BAR MAP Sensor!
While I was in there, I upgraded the old 3 bar link sensor to a shiny new Race Only 4-Bar MAP Sensor. An essential upgrade to keep this party going! Nice one Omar and much appreciated buddy!
Translation: We're not just running, we're hunting! I've got the mapping capacity to push this build. I'm talking about getting into the 32-35 PSI territory (or wherever the power gains stop making sense on the 100-200 KPH sprint!). The quest for peak performance has officially resumed!
The Weather Gods Have Spoken
And on top of everything, you know what else is back? Boost Weather! The cool, crisp air is officially here, and the IATs are dropping. We all know what that means: denser air, more effective intercooling, and sweet, sweet power.
Stay tuned... the pursuit of speed continues!
Last edited:
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14 psi baseline test successful and all systems ready. I'm on holiday for a couple weeks, but the hunt is on.
I'll book dyno time to measure power, though power levels dont matter if the car doesn't perform in real world.
I like to benchmark my baseline low-boost tune against the Porsche 992 GT3 RS—not strictly for power output, but for its real-world acceleration. From there, I focus on dialing in the chassis to manage that performance in the corners.
Right now, my 100–200 times are about 0.5–0.6 seconds slower than the GT3 RS, and my 50–75 mph pulls are also around half a second off. It’s a useful benchmark, since the 992 GT3 offers one of the best modern balances of power and handling.
I'm not a million miles off so a couple of tweaks and i'll be there. Then the hunt is on to try and go supersonic on high boost!
I'll book dyno time to measure power, though power levels dont matter if the car doesn't perform in real world.
I like to benchmark my baseline low-boost tune against the Porsche 992 GT3 RS—not strictly for power output, but for its real-world acceleration. From there, I focus on dialing in the chassis to manage that performance in the corners.
Right now, my 100–200 times are about 0.5–0.6 seconds slower than the GT3 RS, and my 50–75 mph pulls are also around half a second off. It’s a useful benchmark, since the 992 GT3 offers one of the best modern balances of power and handling.
I'm not a million miles off so a couple of tweaks and i'll be there. Then the hunt is on to try and go supersonic on high boost!
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The weather’s been awful lately, so I haven’t had a proper chance to get back out in the RX7. Managed a few short runs in the M3 during some damp, cold patches but with almost no traction, I wasn’t about to risk pushing 30+ psi in the RX7 when even the heavier, lower-powered M3 was struggling to hook up.
Good numbers for a E92 M3 considering conditions were not ideal. However, if my RX7 ran these numbers at low boost - I'd be throwing the draggy and my RX7 in the river!
On a related note, curious what everyone’s running for engine oil and premix on high-boost, high-power 13Bs? Always interested to see what’s working. Anyone know what Mazda's race teams were using?
Good numbers for a E92 M3 considering conditions were not ideal. However, if my RX7 ran these numbers at low boost - I'd be throwing the draggy and my RX7 in the river!
On a related note, curious what everyone’s running for engine oil and premix on high-boost, high-power 13Bs? Always interested to see what’s working. Anyone know what Mazda's race teams were using?
