Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build

[Mir]

Lol, I do like your thread and your content as you evolve in your tuning saga - keep it up , however, it is a bit optimistic to say that PFC belong in the bin. Ross (Dragon Performance) did 163 quater mile using PFC and to date, no one has beaten that record in the UK. Even James did 8.8 using Motec M2R but his terminal speed was 161 or something... in today's arena, all these glorious ECUs are flooding the market but non has beaten the Power FC record. I guess I learnt alot from being around knowledgeable people for example Jaydee. I believe it's not the ECUs anymore, it's all in the man behind the computer. If I am not mistaken and memory serves me right, with Power FC Ross *only* broke one engine. Those in know how would say that, there is a grain of truth in what I said! However, having said all that, I do like the protections that the new ECU offers. But, Power FC is not that bad . I hope you didn't mind this reply on your thread.

 

[a.tapos]

Lol, I do like your thread and your content as you evolve in your tuning saga - keep it up , however, it is a bit optimistic to say that PFC belong in the bin. Ross (Dragon Performance) did 163 quater mile using PFC and to date, no one has beaten that record in the UK. Even James did 8.8 using Motec M2R but his terminal speed was 161 or something... in today's arena, all these glorious ECUs are flooding the market but non has beaten the Power FC record. I guess I learnt alot from being around knowledgeable people for example Jaydee. I believe it's not the ECUs anymore, it's all in the man behind the computer. If I am not mistaken and memory serves me right, with Power FC Ross *only* broke one engine. Those in know how would say that, there is a grain of truth in what I said! However, having said all that, I do like the protections that the new ECU offers. But, Power FC is not that bad . I hope you didn't mind this reply on your thread.

Yeah i agree.
A 13B will make the same power at a certain boost/timing/rpm regardless of the ecu used.just the safety i think has really come along

 

[Copyninja]

Lol, I do like your thread and your content as you evolve in your tuning saga - keep it up , however, it is a bit optimistic to say that PFC belong in the bin. Ross (Dragon Performance) did 163 quater mile using PFC and to date, no one has beaten that record in the UK. Even James did 8.8 using Motec M2R but his terminal speed was 161 or something... in today's arena, all these glorious ECUs are flooding the market but non has beaten the Power FC record. I guess I learnt alot from being around knowledgeable people for example Jaydee. I believe it's not the ECUs anymore, it's all in the man behind the computer. If I am not mistaken and memory serves me right, with Power FC Ross *only* broke one engine. Those in know how would say that, there is a grain of truth in what I said! However, having said all that, I do like the protections that the new ECU offers. But, Power FC is not that bad . I hope you didn't mind this reply on your thread.

Haha all good mate, appreciate the input! No doubt PFC had its moment and Ross did big things, but if memory serves, Tim’s shop FD went even quicker with an 8.3s 1/4 miles back in the day (not sure about the ECU probably motec). All super impressive, but we’re talking about stuff from over a decade ago now. Again very impressive and I applaud their achievements.

Thing is, ECU tech has come a long way since then. In 2025, running a PFC feels like driving blind. When something goes wrong, there’s no logging, no safety strategies, just a blown motor and guesswork. With Modern ECUs, safety cut kicks in, you check the logs, tweak what’s needed, and you’re back out. No need to be 10k deep into a rebuild to learn a lesson. So yeah… still think the PFC belongs in the bin in 2025. That’s just my point of view, though. Personally, if I was still running a PFC, I’d be down at least 3-4 engines by now… and yeah, I’d rather not be down 30-40k. You have to look at it logically now, if you blow a 13b in 2025...its 10k for a new crate engine and rebuilds are 5-6k min plus everything else that needs replacing in between. With a Modern ECU if tuned well...you just avoid the hassle and bag the 10k to invest in crypto for those 10x gains that might never come!

Again to each their own. If people wanna run a pfc now because you're on stock twins then yes that makes sense...but on a single turbo setup if you're already 10, 15 or 20k plus into a build...it just doesnt make sense anymore! If anyone else is taking time out of their busy lives to read my FD content. The least I can do is add some value and encourage fellow single turbo owners to get a modern ECU to protect their investment and to prevent heartbreak! End of the day to each their own.

 

[Copyninja]

Since dyno day, it's been a learning curve getting used to the new fuel system, but I’m starting to get things dialed in. I'm now hitting the 7-second range using only Tesco 99 pump fuel no wmi needed. After increasing boost by just 1 psi to 15.5 psi, the car comfortably dropped into the 7s. On the dyno tune, the car managed an 8.4-second run. Now, it's doing 7.7s in real-world acceleration. I’ve also refined the accel fueling between gear changes, which has noticeably improved transient throttle and engine response. This can really be felt behind the wheel and shows in the acceleration run.

The goal is to consistently hit high 6 to low 7-second times on low boost, still using pump fuel and no wmi. My previous personal bests were set during colder winter conditions, so with the current summer heat, I’ve needed an extra 0.5 to 1 psi of boost to achieve similar performance. As temperatures drop later in the year, I’m confident the times will improve even further under the same setup.

 

[Copyninja]

A few of you have asked me asking about the sensors and safeties I’ve got running. I figured I’d drop it all here in one spot to help others out. The more reliable we make these things, the more success stories we’ll see popping up online and that’s only going to drive demand and push FD prices to the moon . Imagine a world where FDs are known not just for being lightweight, agile, and timeless, but also more reliable than a piston engine. Yeah, I said it !!

It blows my mind that R34 shitbox GTRs are fetching the prices they are, while our beloved FDs still fly under the radar. Let’s change that narrative together !! FD prices to the MOON!!

Current Sensors Connected to ECU:

• Wideband O2 (Lambda)
• Fuel Pressure
• Oil Pressure
• Oil Temperature
• Coolant Temperature
• Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
• MAP Sensor
• Electronic Boost Controller
• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Sensors to be added with the new G40 900 Turbo and manifold:

• Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)
• Exhaust Manifold Pressure (EMAP)
• Turbo Speed Sensor
• GPS Wheel Speed Sensor
• Dual O2 Sensors (One for each rotor/bank)

ECU Safety Strategies I run:

• Dual MAP Limit: Protects against overboost in both low and high boost modes.
• RPM Limit: Prevents the engine from exceeding redline.
• Lean Protection: If AFR goes lean (below target), the ECU will stall the engine to prevent damage.
• Coolant & Oil Temperature: If either exceeds 100°C, engine goes into limp mode (no boost) until temps cool down.
• Oil Pressure Fail-Safe: If oil pressure drops below 20 psi, the engine shuts down.
• IAT and ECT Timing Correction: If Intake Air Temp exceeds 50°C and Coolant Temp exceeds 100°C, ECU begins to pull timing to reduce thermal stress.

The one thing I want to add is to connect my WMI system to the ECU so it can read the flow from the water meth injector and have it fully controlled via the ECU under Lean out protection.

Let me know what you are running and if there's any safety is I should consider.

 

[Copyninja]

The new low boost setting, sitting around 15–15.5 psi, is consistently delivering 100–200 km/h times in the 7.8-second range when averaging both valid and invalid runs. I’m very happy with that as it’s a solid improvement of around 0.6 seconds over the previous 8.4-second runs.

This is all on pump fuel, with no wmi and in fairly warm conditions. The car feels really well-balanced on the street, especially through the twisties and on corner exits where traction is more limited for street use on colder tyres. I’m tempted to try bumping the boost slightly higher maybe up to 16.5 psi (around 1.15 bar) on pump fuel, just to see how it affects both the acceleration runs and handling through the twisties.

I think this level of performance is easily attainable for the vast majority of FD owners who desire a well balanced machine with strong acceleration through the twisties.

 

[Copyninja]

Recently, I was given a new to me but old pioneer headunit with bluetooth audio, hands free calls, and apple music etc etc. My previous headunit also happens to be a pioneer unit but with none of the modern gismos! In a way the headunit really brought the FD into the modern world....making me think why in the world I didnt get bluetooth handfree and ability to stream my apple music through the FD. I took these things for granted in my M3 and never thought I needed such luxuries in the 7, but I was wrong.

One thing led to another and its finally time to improve the performance of the stock audio system in my FD. The goal is better clarity, improved mid-bass, and reduced cabin noise, all while keeping the setup simple, affordable, and clean. That means no subs, no big amps, no additional heavy wiring and no rear speakers. Just aiming to get the best possible sound from the front stage.

Changes being made:

1. Front Speakers: Swapping in Focal ACX 165 6.5" coaxials (60W RMS) using new 6.5" adapters and foam rings for better fit and seal.
2. Amplification: Adding a Pioneer GM-D1004 compact mini amp to power the Focals properly (45W RMS per channel). Plug-and-play using an ISO harness with no cutting. Hopefully will sit behind the head unit.
3. Head Unit: Keeping the Pioneer DEH-4500BT as it easily integrates with the mini amp and also allows me to tune EQ and high-pass filter for cleaner sound.
4. Sound Deadening: Its pointless, installing new speakers in a car like the RX7 without treatment of the door cards. So i'll be applying Silent Coat 2mm sheets to outer and inner door skins. On top of that, adding 3mm closed-cell foam (CCF) on the inner skin only, away from the window path and gasket tape around speaker adapter to reduce leaks and resonance.

Most will agree the stock audio setup is weak and distorted at higher volumes, like listening to music via your phone speakers. I hope the Focals will offer a cleaner, more dynamic sound, and the mini amp helps drive them properly without overloading the head unit. Sound deadening should help a lot in my RX-7’s loud and noisy cabin. Everything is non-destructive and easily reversible back to OEM, as if anyone would want to go back to stock 30yr old speakers

Hopefully this will be a night and day difference in sound quality for those long journeys to Spa or Nurburgring. Fingers crossed, its a worthwhile upgrade without a significant weight penalty.

 

[Copyninja]

My X5 did not start so I had to take my most reliable car for a grocery run.

The Best Dadmobile ever! Who said RX7s were not practical

 

[Slevenheaven]

My X5 did not start so I had to take my most reliable car for a grocery run.
View attachment 41668

The Best Dadmobile ever! Who said RX7s were not practical
View attachment 41669

Perfect family vehicle that

 

[ndk_]

I did a similar audio upgrade in my car and it made a world of difference. Probably didn't help that the rubber gaskets in all the original speakers had fallen away to nothing!

 

[Copyninja]

I did a similar audio upgrade in my car and it made a world of difference. Probably didn't help that the rubber gaskets in all the original speakers had fallen away to nothing!

Great to hear and I hope it makes a noticeable difference.

 

[Copyninja]

Refining the low boost has led to this point. After 11, 100–200 runs, the new fuel system has proven itself to be consistent, repeatable, and reliable which is exactly what I wanted to put to the test. In my view it has passed and all the negative air about the Bosch 2200cc injectors being rubbish and inconsistent is either internet forum rubbish or poor fuel system setup as I've not experienced any kind of inconsistency with them run after run.

There is enough confidence in the fuel system to start high boost tuning. I did a 24 psi test run to 6k rpm and the skies opened up so I had to call it a day. As expected, the fuel system handled it effortlessly. The injector duty cycle was only around 42%, and fuel pressure stayed rock solid, with none of the pressure drops I experienced with the old setup. I need to work on refining the high boost map but hopefully that wont take too long.

This is the previous run which did the 5.98s 100-200. The new fuel system confirms nearly a 44% reduction in injector duty cycle, and fuel pressure remained completely stable with no drop at all and those funky oscillations are gone too.

2 bar (29 psi) coming soon...
Can a 13b street port handle the boost?
Will the 100–200 km/h times drop even further?
Stick around, we’re about to find out!

 

[Copyninja]

A few updates since the initial 24psi run:

• Verified base fuel pressure using a manual gauge and confirmed it's set to 40psi differential.
• Swapped in a new fuel pressure sensor and re-calibrated it to match the manual gauge. Took some time but worth it to reduce error.
• Retuned the fuel map slightly to suit the new pressure. Injector data remains set for 40psi base.
• Staging is improved but still not perfect asit dips rich briefly as secondaries come in, then stabilizes. It feels smooth on the road, but logs show room for improvement.

Omar pointed out that injector dead times and flow rates in the Link G4X might not be ideal at the staging point. I have to explore the ECU logic further possibly lowering the sec/pri ratio to soften the transition and reduce that initial rich dip. Will see how it goes and may get Adam from Link involved to fine-tune it.

This was a 3rd gear pull up to 7700rpm before I lifted. There’s still a lot of fuel to clean up, but this is how I prefer to tune on the road, starting rich and gradually leaning it out until I consistently hit the target lambda across multiple runs.

I had the trusty Dragy with me for this session, and even with the map still being a bit off, it managed a 60–90 mph time of 2.50 seconds, which was a pleasant surprise.

The run where I hit 5.9s for 100–200 km/h and the matching 60–130 mph pass shows a 60–90 mph time of 2.16 seconds. That’s just 0.34 seconds off my previous personal best, which is quite promising, especially considering there’s still a fair amount of fuel to trim and i'm not even close to the optimal tune yet.

Below is Nath’s time from the leaderboard in his G42-equipped RX-7 running 29psi. He clocked a 60–90mph time of just 1.86 seconds. I’m currently 0.64 seconds off that pace which is a significant gap, and it makes me question whether the smaller G35 on a street port can realistically compete at the same boost level. Either way we will find out soon enough.

Overall, things are heading in the right direction. One concern though, I noticed third gear felt a bit tighter going in than usual, which is slightly worrying. Something I’ll need to keep an eye on. Hopefully the gearbox holds out!!

 

[Copyninja]

Close but no Cigar! Just 0.13s off my previous 60-90mph pace. Only a matter of time till i get the setting dialled in and run a new PB.

 

[Copyninja]

Getting better with acceleration 60-90mph 0.07s off previous pb and 60-100mph around 0.13 quicker than previous PB already. So some progress is being made.

I need to continue working on the transient fueling and accel fuel between the 3rd to 4th gear shift at 24pi to increase acceleration because dragy is a cruel mistress. I've done around 10 60-90/100 mph pulls and things are looking good to continue up to 29psi.

 

[Copyninja]

Back to PB pace - Managed to match my previous PB (0.02s faster, small win) despite running in much hotter ambient temps. I was up to around 25psi and still a way off from the optimal tune, so it's actually quite encouraging and slowly getting there! Makes me feel happy the new fuel system is doing the same things repeatedly and consistently. I want to give Omar from Raceonly credit for sending over some crucial bosch injector data to make these injectors work well. Thanks mate.

Did another run at 26psi on a pretty lazy tuneup, and it still managed a low 6-second pass! The plan now is to dial in 26psi as best I can before stepping up to 28psi. I’ve got a feeling I won’t be able to push all the way to 29, since the ECU’s map limits and safety settings will probably kick in just before maxing out the 3-bar sensor.

Took the M3 out for a little "mental reset" drive today and it really hammered home just how ridiculously engaging, visceral and raw the RX7 experience is. Nothing quite like it.

I love the M3, its one of the greatest hits from M division but it a completely different animal! Refined, comfy and quiet.

Took a step back from chasing boost the past couple of days to appreciate the FD as it is right now and honestly, I’m loving it.

For a pump-fuel streetport running a modest G35, this thing is putting down seriously impressive performance. I reckon a lot of fellow FD owners would absolutely love this level of performance. Sometimes it's nice to enjoy the setup rather than always pushing for more! I mean just have a look at modern cars running between 5.9 - 6.2s range.

 

[Copyninja]

Firmly in the 26psi range now and it's still getting better! I need to shift better from 3rd to 4th shift. Only about 2psi left to squeeze out, getting close to the sweet spot! Fuel pressure and duty cycle are stable and not stressed.

 

[Copyninja]

Tubby getting in the sweet spot and honing in on the tune up!
G35 26.5psi ~ 1.8bar

 

[Copyninja]

27psi and still moving up slowly but surely with a sub optimal tune up.

All performance metrics hit a new PB today. For the first time ever, my 60–90 mph time dropped below 2 seconds showcasing strong performance during a third gear pull.

The current limitation is the stock box, which is costing approximately 0.45 seconds during a manual shift. This includes time lost off boost as the turbo goes into vacuum and has to spool up again. A DCT or dog box would eliminate that downtime, keeping the turbo spooled and likely shaving off at least another 0.3 seconds, possibly more. That said, the stock gearbox is impressively holding up to some serious abuse!

New PB of 100-200 in 5.71s, the small wins add up!

 

[Copyninja]

Same boost but this was THE shift!! 0.249s on the log for the stock box.

5.58s range with 27psi I did it but still working on believing!!