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I broke it quickly...And repeatedly...Chaste White Rebuild

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Yup the WHOLE thing 🤣

Done it on the supra forums find a good thread get the coffee on just set the autoscroll 🤣.

After reading it all I'm in two minds wether to pull the keg and either tear it down and check it over replace the seals or "just send it bro"
Get your tune checked and spot on and just send it. If only I had done that I wouldn’t be balls deep all these years later 😂
 
It's on a Apexi FC so there is only so much I can check.

Would really like the cable to plug into a laptop but at 400 sheets not happening 🤣.

The car has 550 primaries and 870 secondaries but without pulling them I really don't know.
 
I struggle to see the explanation of the twisting casing

Why would it do it only with the OS gearset. Surely it would be doing that on the OEM gearset.
 
I struggle to see the explanation of the twisting casing

Why would it do it only with the OS gearset. Surely it would be doing that on the OEM gearset.
I agree Joe, I think it’s a gearset issue or issue with the assembly.

It will be removed next week for inspection .
 
Colum will remove gearbox these next few days and Geartech are going to collect and inspect for me, I am actually hoping they find something obvious, I have noticed that during normal driving now, second gear is a bit notchy which I don’t think should be the case based on all near OEM synchros.

To beef up the casing as this is what OS Giken claim is the problem (case flex) I’ve purchased a chunky gearbox brace/bottom case from Billet rotary is AUS, Geartech will fit following their inspection.

It certainly looks the part, big chunk of billet, nice and shiny and pretty girthy 😉

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I’m going to have the diff bushings swapped out too in order to help with any potential play. Pretty certain they will be stock diff bushes so likely seen better days.

I went with Super Pro, will do the whole car over winter months as have a full kit.

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A few years ago I purchased a custom diff brace from Colum but never had it fitted so today it was finally installed. Looks good 👍

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The final part to the puzzle is an actual gearbox brace at the front of the car too so I’m hoping as a combination this will fix the jumping out of gear issue and in turn save me having to invest in a complete gearbox swap.

As a backup I did pick up a 8.8 rear diff and alloy prop if I do go down that route.

Will report back in a week or so hopefully with a working gearbox.
 
Gearbox has been opened and fully inspected. Nothing super obvious found, a few “load bearing” marks as they put it on 3rd and 4th gear but nothing that would indicate why it’s popping out of gear.

They have pre loaded the detent springs tighter which I’m hoping will help.

Along with the brace pan, diff and gearbox brace plus new engine mounts and diff poly bushes, hoping this fixes it.

Peter makes a valid point though, he had the idea of getting the OEM box made in steel. A much easier task these days with 3D scanning and multiple Chinese companies for hire. Might be a consideration vs spending £10k for a full diff and box swap. I will investigate.
 
Ok so I picked car up from Colum last week.

The car felt great now it’s much more solid. You notice the poly engine mounts as soon as you fire the car up but not at all in a bad teeth shattering way.

The car itself with the various bracing and new diff feels way tighter and way more predictable under hard acceleration.

The unfortunate news however is despite all of our best efforts the jumping out of gear still exists.

Never one to give up and with a preference to not keep relying on others I’ve started removing the gearbox myself to get a second opinion.

A few pics of my efforts so far, just the starter, slave cylinder, clutch release & PPF to remove before pulling box.

Quite enjoying learning new stuff but not doing it in this heat.

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Shit news the gearbox is still playing up.

Tip for getting the box out - when you have the power plant off, jack the front of the engine up a little bit and wedge abit of wood between it and the subframe to angle the gearbox down abit. Makes it loads easier to get to the top bolts and get the box out
 
Did the gearbox in out myself for the first time recently. Not too bad a job, you'll need a deep 22mm iirc socket for the PPF. Getting it lined up with the clutch when your putting it back on is a bitch. Are you on axle stands?
 
Did the gearbox in out myself for the first time recently. Not too bad a job, you'll need a deep 22mm iirc socket for the PPF. Getting it lined up with the clutch when your putting it back on is a bitch. Are you on axle stands?
Yes indeed, on axles stands.
 
Did the gearbox in out myself for the first time recently. Not too bad a job, you'll need a deep 22mm iirc socket for the PPF. Getting it lined up with the clutch when your putting it back on is a bitch. Are you on axle stands?
You can buy dummy plastic input shaft to help line it up. That’s why jacking the front of the engine up helps as it’s easier to put the gearbox in straight at that angle
 
You can buy dummy plastic input shaft to help line it up. That’s why jacking the front of the engine up helps as it’s easier to put the gearbox in straight at that angle
I don’t think I’ll have the option of jacking front of engine up. Its on poly mounts so will have very little movement and my sump is snazzy aluminium from USA which I don’t want to dent. I’ll find a way.
 
I don’t think I’ll have the option of jacking front of engine up. Its on poly mounts so will have very little movement and my sump is snazzy aluminium from USA which I don’t want to dent. I’ll find a way.
Ahhh you might be abit fucked then. When the Power plant is removed pull down on the back of the gearbox to see how much movement you have. The wood we used to wedge in was on about 1-1.5 inch thick but that angle makes a big difference

Where you put the wood it right at the front of the engine under the front cover so no danger of damaging the sump. Used to use a transmission jack to jack it up but a trolly jack with some wood side on would do the trick to.
 
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