I had to go back to page 2 myself just to refresh memories haha!
Ahh never, did you also have an E92 M3? I did regret selling my white m3; it was a fantastic all rounder imo.
Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build
- Thread starter Copyninja
- Start date
Ahh never, did you also have an E92 M3? I did regret selling my white m3; it was a fantastic all rounder imo.
rx_dreamer
Well-known member
- Location
- UK
8400rpm TB'd V8...???!!! 
don't care if it was fat and slow it was almost perfect
don't care if it was fat and slow it was almost perfect
Totally agree, such a great car...I had to get another one8400rpm TB'd V8...???!!!
don't care if it was fat and slow it was almost perfect
.Rear Subframe dropped, fuel tank removed. Mike advised the rusty bits are surface rust and no major surgery is required.
Preventative maintenance being carried out with utmost attention to detail.
Rear shock tower - underseal removed ready for the next step.
Picked up the freshly refurbed Advan RG2s from Mike. Got some Gyeon G2 Rim to ceramic coat it over the next few days/weeks; whenever I get the opportunity to do it.
Overall, extremely pleased with how the underside restoration is going.
Preventative maintenance being carried out with utmost attention to detail.
Rear shock tower - underseal removed ready for the next step.
Picked up the freshly refurbed Advan RG2s from Mike. Got some Gyeon G2 Rim to ceramic coat it over the next few days/weeks; whenever I get the opportunity to do it.
Overall, extremely pleased with how the underside restoration is going.
Happy new year's eve everyone.
After the underside was fully stripped off the old underseal back to bare metal. It was repaired (where applicable) and treated with Bilt hamber rust converter, parweld zinc primer, raptor body sealer and bilt hamber cavity wax. I've been told by Mike it won't rust again for a long time.
Mike mentioned he had to repair 7 small sections with new parts and weld them in. I'm glad no corners were cut and the underside of this rx7s shell has been restored to its former glory. Mike mentioned he would wear a white tux for assembly of the underside . He's really looking forward to put it all back together.
After the underside was fully stripped off the old underseal back to bare metal. It was repaired (where applicable) and treated with Bilt hamber rust converter, parweld zinc primer, raptor body sealer and bilt hamber cavity wax. I've been told by Mike it won't rust again for a long time.
Mike mentioned he had to repair 7 small sections with new parts and weld them in. I'm glad no corners were cut and the underside of this rx7s shell has been restored to its former glory. Mike mentioned he would wear a white tux for assembly of the underside
. He's really looking forward to put it all back together.The underside has been reassembled. The rear sub frame's had some upgrades installed to aid strength and rigidity.
There's a few more bolts that need to be plated before I get the car back.
View attachment 32005
There's a few more bolts that need to be plated before I get the car back.
View attachment 32005
Almost 6 months later, the underside has been fully restored and reassembled and it started brapping right away. Really happy with how things are coming along.
Its going in for a detail and polish soon. Will be back with Mike to complete some final finishing touches with a geo setup left to do before it comes home.
Its going in for a detail and polish soon. Will be back with Mike to complete some final finishing touches with a geo setup left to do before it comes home.
Blaghurst
Member
- Location
- Bournemouth
Love the build and love the RG2s, best wheels out there!
Hi mate, I just read through your entire build thread, very impressive, keep up the good work.
I have an rx7 which I bought in 2016 with no engine. I live not to far from you (Swansea) and I'm dying to get this car running. I recently bought an engine and gearbox and although I have mechanical knowledge, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to a rotary and a lot of learning is needed. Whilst going through your build thread I clicked on the Advocult link you posted for the oil coolers. Can I just ask a few questions?
Was it the 19 row coolers you got? what size AN nitrate braided hoses did you use and what size thermostatic sandwich plate?
I couldn't see a specific kit on their website, I'm guessing I need to make my own. I was thinking 4m of braided hose in whatever AN size, sandwich plate in unsure size, 2 19 row coolers and 6 AN90 degree fittings. also i'd need 4 m22 x 1.5 adapters i guess
Any help would be much appreciated
Rich
I have an rx7 which I bought in 2016 with no engine. I live not to far from you (Swansea) and I'm dying to get this car running. I recently bought an engine and gearbox and although I have mechanical knowledge, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to a rotary and a lot of learning is needed. Whilst going through your build thread I clicked on the Advocult link you posted for the oil coolers. Can I just ask a few questions?
Was it the 19 row coolers you got? what size AN nitrate braided hoses did you use and what size thermostatic sandwich plate?
I couldn't see a specific kit on their website, I'm guessing I need to make my own. I was thinking 4m of braided hose in whatever AN size, sandwich plate in unsure size, 2 19 row coolers and 6 AN90 degree fittings. also i'd need 4 m22 x 1.5 adapters i guess
Any help would be much appreciated
Rich
I got the kit from Advocult and Tim from RX motors fitted it for me. Im not sure about the fittings. Tim binned the standard an fittings with the kit and used ultraflow fittings to eliminate restrictions.
From what I can remember the kit came with 5m of an10 lines but Tim shortened that to 3m or less and mounted the sandwich plate under the power steering fluid reservoir. All an10 lines iirc.
Got the car back from Mike a few weeks ago. The extensive underside restoration work has been carried out. Its like driving what a new rx7 must have felt like without the knocks and bangs from the old and worn out bushes. Everything is tight and the ohlins dfv coilovers really tie it all together. The car feels great to drive.
Tell you whats now amazing right now is the ridiculous fuel prices. Makes me sick!
Back home and need to get alignment sorted and then get on with some boost and dragy gps runs.
Made it to Indigo GT where I initially dyno tuned the car...but this time it was there for a full alignment.
Some would say its a shame to drive it in the wet after a full underside restoration but for me....it was never a garage queen. I'm always gonna use it...every chance i get.....rain, shine or snow!
Unfortunately Mike did not get many pics of the masterful work he completed of the underside....so I managed to get some pics in while the car was on the ramp.
Seriously considering a new exhaust system
!
Settled at -2deg negative camber front and rear.
0.5mm toe in front n rear
6* castor front
Felt really good on the drive home. Sharp, tight, responsive.
Tell you whats now amazing right now is the ridiculous fuel prices. Makes me sick!
Back home and need to get alignment sorted and then get on with some boost and dragy gps runs.
Made it to Indigo GT where I initially dyno tuned the car...but this time it was there for a full alignment.
Some would say its a shame to drive it in the wet after a full underside restoration but for me....it was never a garage queen. I'm always gonna use it...every chance i get.....rain, shine or snow!
Unfortunately Mike did not get many pics of the masterful work he completed of the underside....so I managed to get some pics in while the car was on the ramp.
Seriously considering a new exhaust system
!Settled at -2deg negative camber front and rear.
0.5mm toe in front n rear
6* castor front
Felt really good on the drive home. Sharp, tight, responsive.
Last edited:
So on the way back through some private roads I thought to test the low boost option, it was wet so the first run was a rather cautionary one. A smooth roll into 4th followed by granny shift into 5th.
12psi circa 350rwhp ~ 400ish hp.
little braver but called it a night here as it was bit too wet for my liking.
View attachment 32520
Tried again the next day....drier and a cooler. Made an improvement but not the kind I was hoping for. A 400hp RX7 should be doing a 100-200kph in sub 10s...so I did some data logging and found a few issues which I quickly fixed on the low boost tune.
The tweaks made to the map from the above data gathering exercise made a significant difference. 100-200kph in 8.94s was achieved going up an incline. This is a great result for 12psi circa 400hp power level. The tune in 5th is still very much on the rich side as evidenced below...so further optimizations can be made to the low boost/12psi map. I wont hold my breath for it to go much faster than this..perhaps a few tenths if i found a level road and leaned out the fueling in 5th
12psi 400hp 100-200kph in 8.94s. A lot better than 11s range.
Once I'm satisfied with tuning the optimal low boost map (which is dragy gps proven to be the fastest 100-200kph time). The inevitable next stop will be some 20psi runs to see what can be achieved for the 100-200kph. Its a promising start and the goal is to make it into the 6s range with 20-25psi. Looking at the data...i can easily save a couple tenths if i can somehow double clutch and not granny shift into 5th.
Last edited:
Managed to go even faster. I think this is the limit of 12psi 400hp. I highly doubt i'll be able to beat this time.
I sorted out my granny shift to 5th and the results are better than i expected.
12psi 400hp and a 100-200kph in 8.52s is respectable, especially considering I had to do 2 manual shifts. If i had a DCT box....id imagine this would have been low 8s range.
I sorted out my granny shift to 5th and the results are better than i expected.
12psi 400hp and a 100-200kph in 8.52s is respectable, especially considering I had to do 2 manual shifts. If i had a DCT box....id imagine this would have been low 8s range.
Last edited:
Finishing up the low boost map and tune. I decided to revisit the data and looked like it was just possible to hit 200kph at the very top of 4th gear (but I was being cautious and shifting into 5th for all my 100-200kph runs). So I decided to do one last run to test this theory and just made it to 200kph in 4th. Although a slight negative slope, dragy GPS deemed it a valid run and that's good enough for me. I suspect if the gradient was level...I would expect to be in the low 8s range (based on the data I have and also looking at runs I did going up slopes etc..)
Not a bad run for 12 psi circa 400hp. I keep saying I won't go faster and then go faster. However, this time I seriously doubt I'll go any faster than this on 12psi boost with the G35 1050. The conditions were great, the car performed flawlessly and the run felt effortless. I'll add all runs were done with a full tank of fuel or near full fuel weight. My FD is full-fat weighing in at 1,315 kgs with driver inc full wet weight.
View attachment 32534
Not a bad run for 12 psi circa 400hp. I keep saying I won't go faster and then go faster. However, this time I seriously doubt I'll go any faster than this on 12psi boost with the G35 1050. The conditions were great, the car performed flawlessly and the run felt effortless. I'll add all runs were done with a full tank of fuel or near full fuel weight. My FD is full-fat weighing in at 1,315 kgs with driver inc full wet weight.
View attachment 32534
Last edited:
Final few runs to wrap up the 12psi map. 10*C hotter ait temps compared to my PB run and as I suspected low 8s runs from 100-200kph when the slope is bit more level. Starting to get a bit more consistent now with almost 20 runs ranging from high 7s range to low 8s range depending on temps and conditions. Overall very happy with the 12psi map including performance and most importantly the reliability.
Next step is to get to 14-14.5 psi and test to see if there are any worthwhile performance gains to be had over the 12psi boost setting. If it drops me into the mid to high 7s range consistently for 100-200kph, than it may become my new low boost setting without the need for wmi etc. That being said, in the wet 12psi 3rd and 4th are scary af but in dry conditions I dont mind going upto 1 bar provided the gains are worthwhile.
Next step is to get to 14-14.5 psi and test to see if there are any worthwhile performance gains to be had over the 12psi boost setting. If it drops me into the mid to high 7s range consistently for 100-200kph, than it may become my new low boost setting without the need for wmi etc. That being said, in the wet 12psi 3rd and 4th are scary af but in dry conditions I dont mind going upto 1 bar provided the gains are worthwhile.
Last edited:
Finished the 12psi map and in hotter conditions with 30-35*C AIT with as optimized a tune as i'm capable of doing. I've ended with the FD successfully completing 25x 100-200kph runs. Overall I'm consistently doing low 8s range in hotter conditions with 30+deg C AIT's and with 20*C AIT the runs are faster. Overall exceptionally happy with the low boost performance and most importantly the reliability. The car just loves the revs and boost!
This is a run I completed in HOT conditions and the car is still doing 100-200kph in less than 8.2s on a hot day. On a very cool day high 7s are also done consistently. This concludes the 12psi tune and the FD with its manual box is fairly close in performance with modern cars like the OEM G80 M3 ( faster than the OEM F80 M3/M4 platform) and the 992 Carrera-S.
Auto Top NL youtube channel has a fairly comprehensive list of cars tested for 100-200kph
docs.google.com
A good way to objectively see where a 400hp rx7 stacks up against modern weapons!
This is a run I completed in HOT conditions and the car is still doing 100-200kph in less than 8.2s on a hot day. On a very cool day high 7s are also done consistently. This concludes the 12psi tune and the FD with its manual box is fairly close in performance with modern cars like the OEM G80 M3 ( faster than the OEM F80 M3/M4 platform) and the 992 Carrera-S.
Auto Top NL youtube channel has a fairly comprehensive list of cars tested for 100-200kph
IgnitionCollection.com 100-200
100-200 03.13,Lamborghini Gallardo Twin Turbo 1750HP Dallas Performance,<a href="https://youtu.be/JaywLG4S0WQ">https://youtu.be/JaywLG4S0WQ</a> 03.41,Audi TT RS VR6 Turbo 1300HP,<a href="https://youtu.be/ZGV004eh5BM">https://youtu.be/ZGV004eh5BM</a> 03.54,2012 Nissan GTR 1400HP Total Car Concept...
Last edited:
Got the FD back from a 3 stage polish to restore the paint and remove all the nasty swirl marks. Love how the green really pops in the monty blue in the Sun. Its soo difficult to capture on camera and the pics don't do it justice at all. A truly special oem colour.
Not perfect, I need some new RE Canards. Wish my phone camera could capture how the green in the monty blue really pops out!
Not perfect, I need some new RE Canards. Wish my phone camera could capture how the green in the monty blue really pops out!
Last edited:
Had some time to up boost to 14 psi. The 100-200kph felt soo much better. Consistently in 7.6s range now! I need to get my go pro out and start recording these runs.
Tried 20psi but it was a bit scary as in 4th the rear broke loose at 6500rpm which caused a bit of a poo the pants moment as I wasn't expecting it.
On par with a 991.1 GT3 RS with only 14psi. The G35 1050 seems to be doing well do far.
Tried 20psi but it was a bit scary as in 4th the rear broke loose at 6500rpm which caused a bit of a poo the pants moment as I wasn't expecting it.
On par with a 991.1 GT3 RS with only 14psi. The G35 1050 seems to be doing well do far.
Last edited:
Francob
Well-known member
- Location
- Cheltenham
- Real Name
- Mark
That’s very good going at just 14psi, nice.
Francob
Well-known member
- Location
- Cheltenham
- Real Name
- Mark
How do you time exactly mate ? As in gearing ? You just rolling from say 20-30mph and going through the gears are are you starting just below 100kph and using 2 gears ?