Update - Tim fixed the pop up headlights. Both headlight motors were not working so took them apart and fixed them. Head light relay was not working so changed it. Wire was broken in plug to one of the amps so fixed that. No power to amps so took new power supply from headlight relay. One of the bulbs wasnt secure so fixed that too. Result pop ups do what they should now!
Fueling issue problem - The fuel pump wasn't installed correctly by the previous builder. Then it was taken out and reinstalled by a well known engine builder. Tim started up the engine and it ran for about a minute then ran out of fuel. Advised there was a bare wire in fuel, wrong fitting on top of pump and not sealed tight against washer. Rubber pipe swollen and not suitable for use in fuel.
Solution - Tim got an AN tank braided line on an AN fitting to pump. The rubber hose inside the braided line is the same inside and out, where as normal fuel pipe is only designed for fuel on the inside. New filter sock for the pump. Tim advised by experience when you have a 044 fuel pump on standard lines, the FPR cannot control the fuel pressure as the return line is too small. So the stock fuel filter has been swapped out for a 100 micron AN6 fuel filter for max fuel flow and minimal restriction and an AN6 braided line from tank to engine with this inline filter to replace the standard restrictive filter and AN6 return line. This should help beef up the fuel system for max reliability and minimal restrictions.
Ignition Problem - The previous builder did not wire in and install my HKS Twin power correctly. Advised only L2 and T2 were wired in by previous builder. Absolutely shocking how you can call yourself an engine builder and not wire in critical components properly.
Solution - As I've upgraded to the link G4+ ECU.... I've also gone for a smart coil solution from Haltech. Hopefully no more ignition breakup anywhere in the rev range anymore.
Oil Coolers and lines - Tim advised there was 5m of pipework for the oil cooler lines which could have been done with 3m and without 3x180 degree bends on the oil coolers. He sent me a pic of banjo for oil feed from engine which was not good for maximum oil flow, then add 5m of pipework and 3x180 degree bends then back into engine through another banjo.
Solution - The 5m of pipework has been fully reworked and reduced to 3m. The restrictive banjo bolts were replaced with full flow/ultra flow AN12 fittings. Oil cooler thermostats moved to the left inner wing so there is much shorter pipework for oil flow on start up and when cold. Then both oil coolers turned the other way up and used 90 degree ultra/full flow AN fittings from underneath. So 5x 90 degree, 1x 60degree ultra flow fittings and 2xAN12 adapters with braided lines to screw into engine instead of the crappy banjo bolts with restrictive oil lines. The 3x180 degree fittings were also removed from the oil coolers.
You might want to speak to Gavin he's going DCT, if mine didn't come with a decent 10 speed (full auto) I would have gone this way.
, Shotgun a passenger ride!
