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- Jan 8, 2018
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Thanks man, I'll try and sort the pictures tonight
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Matt's White 97
- Thread starter Mpls24
- Start date
Thanks man, I'll try and sort the pictures tonight
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2018
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I decided to quickly test fit the Manifold and Turbo to get rough idea of how things would sit in there:
The Turbo then got sent off to Turbo dynamics for a rebuild to be on the safe side and to have the hot side ceramic coated by Zircotec.
I fitted the new DM Motorsports pulleys:
Unfortunately the Under drive pulley kit from where I have removed the Air pump is not compatible with my Manifold/Turbo set up which was a shame but luckily Pineapple racing do a "Big Turbo" pulley which sits further in and lower which works well, juts isn't nice and purple like the others.
Decided to use a bit of heat reflective tape in the bay because every little helps I guess, trying to lay it in anyway that looks remotely neat or tidy is hardwork:
I used blanking plates from DM Motorsports to blank off the ICV and double throttle butterflies, Air Pump and eventually the OMP, I decided that while both the inlet manifolds were off I'd have a go at trying to polish them up but my attempts were woeful and I completely underestimated the amount of time and patience it would take to get anything near a decent result:
In the end I took them to a place in the deep dark Rhondda valleys called Billy Whizz Polishing and the picture doesn't do justice to how good he got them after a week of his time for a very reasonable price, he uses all homemade tooling and works from the garage at the back of his house. He specialises in motorbike parts but will do anything, he has an Instagram page where you can see his work:
The Turbo then got sent off to Turbo dynamics for a rebuild to be on the safe side and to have the hot side ceramic coated by Zircotec.
I fitted the new DM Motorsports pulleys:
Unfortunately the Under drive pulley kit from where I have removed the Air pump is not compatible with my Manifold/Turbo set up which was a shame but luckily Pineapple racing do a "Big Turbo" pulley which sits further in and lower which works well, juts isn't nice and purple like the others.
Decided to use a bit of heat reflective tape in the bay because every little helps I guess, trying to lay it in anyway that looks remotely neat or tidy is hardwork:
I used blanking plates from DM Motorsports to blank off the ICV and double throttle butterflies, Air Pump and eventually the OMP, I decided that while both the inlet manifolds were off I'd have a go at trying to polish them up but my attempts were woeful and I completely underestimated the amount of time and patience it would take to get anything near a decent result:
In the end I took them to a place in the deep dark Rhondda valleys called Billy Whizz Polishing and the picture doesn't do justice to how good he got them after a week of his time for a very reasonable price, he uses all homemade tooling and works from the garage at the back of his house. He specialises in motorbike parts but will do anything, he has an Instagram page where you can see his work:
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2018
- Messages
- 228
I removed the primary fuel rail to allow the fitting of the new injectors and rail, just managed to catch the frail plastic diffusers when I removed them and they broke.
As I'm ditching the OMP anyway I decided now would be the most convenient time to remove the lines and plug the existing injector threads.
Once I'd done that I mounted up the rail and injectors and bolted it down.
Then got the secondary rail and injectors mounted up on the LIM.
I blocked over the now unneeded vacuum nipples.
Mounted the LIM back onto the block.
Double checked the RyWire loom for continuity prior to installing on a nightshift in work and all was good
Swapped out the crusty old loom which makes the engine bay look so much better without all the clutter of the unused plugs.
As I'm ditching the OMP anyway I decided now would be the most convenient time to remove the lines and plug the existing injector threads.
Once I'd done that I mounted up the rail and injectors and bolted it down.
Then got the secondary rail and injectors mounted up on the LIM.
I blocked over the now unneeded vacuum nipples.
Mounted the LIM back onto the block.
Double checked the RyWire loom for continuity prior to installing on a nightshift in work and all was good
Swapped out the crusty old loom which makes the engine bay look so much better without all the clutter of the unused plugs.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2018
- Messages
- 228
I then fitted the FPR to the bulkhead above the hard lines from under the car and routed the fuel lines to the rails.
I polished up the AST delete filler neck from Craig and fitted that.
A new SARD thermostat was fitted and on the thermostat housing I pulled out the old metal hose fittings and tapped threads into the housing in their place to allow me to fit AN-6 lines for the Turbo coolant feed and return, I managed to melt the temp sensor on there when heating it so I had to fork out for a new one of those as well and new gaskets from RHDJapan.
I also used an AN-4 fitting for the Turbo oil feed from the front Iron for ease of plumbing and to allow me remove all the ugly old hard lines.
After getting the UIM back from polishing I mounted that up to my Rotary Works throttle body.
And got them fitted.
You'll notice I also fitted an IWG oil filler neck with AN-10 line off for a catch can.
I also got underneath the car following my fitting of the in bay fuel lines and made an "eco friendly" adjustment to the fuel vapour pipe as I had removed that from the bay.
I polished up the AST delete filler neck from Craig and fitted that.
A new SARD thermostat was fitted and on the thermostat housing I pulled out the old metal hose fittings and tapped threads into the housing in their place to allow me to fit AN-6 lines for the Turbo coolant feed and return, I managed to melt the temp sensor on there when heating it so I had to fork out for a new one of those as well and new gaskets from RHDJapan.
I also used an AN-4 fitting for the Turbo oil feed from the front Iron for ease of plumbing and to allow me remove all the ugly old hard lines.
After getting the UIM back from polishing I mounted that up to my Rotary Works throttle body.
And got them fitted.
You'll notice I also fitted an IWG oil filler neck with AN-10 line off for a catch can.
I also got underneath the car following my fitting of the in bay fuel lines and made an "eco friendly" adjustment to the fuel vapour pipe as I had removed that from the bay.
.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2018
- Messages
- 228
Probably my biggest single purchase for the car has been the Greddy Trust V-Mount Intercooler kit, so I went down to the DHL depot and picked it up myself as I was near by.
The quality of the kit itself is really impressive, the radiator is massive and the intercooler is about 4.5 inches thick.
The kit itself comes with all necessary fixings, brackets and ducting etc. which was nice. After doing some research I decided to use oem Mazda fans as correctly working oem units seem to be the most efficient for us. One thing the kit did not come with though was the extension harness for the fans, this tbh is reasonably easily made but was only about £30 on RHDJapan so I decided to order one from them. There are a couple of threaded bungs in the radiator for adding your own sensors etc so once I had used a bit of thread sealer on those I bolted up the fans.
Another thing that comes with the kit is a new power steering cooler pipe to replace the manky old bent Mazda one.
After fixing the brackets tot he bottom of the chassis rails I could get the radiator bolted in. The kit also included the Greddy elbow so that went on as well.
The quality of the kit itself is really impressive, the radiator is massive and the intercooler is about 4.5 inches thick.
The kit itself comes with all necessary fixings, brackets and ducting etc. which was nice. After doing some research I decided to use oem Mazda fans as correctly working oem units seem to be the most efficient for us. One thing the kit did not come with though was the extension harness for the fans, this tbh is reasonably easily made but was only about £30 on RHDJapan so I decided to order one from them. There are a couple of threaded bungs in the radiator for adding your own sensors etc so once I had used a bit of thread sealer on those I bolted up the fans.
Another thing that comes with the kit is a new power steering cooler pipe to replace the manky old bent Mazda one.
After fixing the brackets tot he bottom of the chassis rails I could get the radiator bolted in. The kit also included the Greddy elbow so that went on as well.
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- Jan 8, 2018
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Also worth mentioning that before I started the radiator and intercooler I fitted AEM coils using the DM Motorsports relocation kit and loom. This is the problem with going back in time to bring a project thread up to date 
A little fiddly to do with the Power steering still etc still on if you have the hands of a grown adult and not an infant pigmy but got there in the end and it all fits nicely and is easy to install, if you have any queries on installation then Tom (Advocult) has done a cool video on his YouTube channel to guide you.
Next up on the radiator was to plumb in the coolant hoses, this was the trickiest part. I'm sure most of you that have gone single turbo will have re-routed the old heater matrix pipe, well I had to here:
However whatever way I tried to route the coolant hoses to the radiator they either clashed with this or the pulleys close by, so it had to go, not a great tragedy as I was not completely confident with the joins in it anyway but that means I will have to look at another route for it to the bulkhead.
The kit comes with the hard pipe that fits between the silicon hose for the radiator and that has a pipe off it for the AST, as I have now no longer got this I used a Dremmel to take off the rolled lip on it and used a plumbing compression stop end to seal it up.
I then bolted in the ducting around the radiator, there is foam insulation tape supplied with the kit so help plug any gaps to make it as airtight as possible for better flow onto the intercooler. Once that was done I could get the intercooler on.
I then connected up the outlet pipe to the elbow to make sure everything lined up properly, the JDM tyte yo Greddy silicon joiners are being replaced with more purple silicon to keep it inline with the rest of the bay.
I had the turbo back from Turbo Dynamics by this point so I tried that on for size.
A little fiddly to do with the Power steering still etc still on if you have the hands of a grown adult and not an infant pigmy but got there in the end and it all fits nicely and is easy to install, if you have any queries on installation then Tom (Advocult) has done a cool video on his YouTube channel to guide you.
Next up on the radiator was to plumb in the coolant hoses, this was the trickiest part. I'm sure most of you that have gone single turbo will have re-routed the old heater matrix pipe, well I had to here:
However whatever way I tried to route the coolant hoses to the radiator they either clashed with this or the pulleys close by, so it had to go, not a great tragedy as I was not completely confident with the joins in it anyway but that means I will have to look at another route for it to the bulkhead.
The kit comes with the hard pipe that fits between the silicon hose for the radiator and that has a pipe off it for the AST, as I have now no longer got this I used a Dremmel to take off the rolled lip on it and used a plumbing compression stop end to seal it up.
I then bolted in the ducting around the radiator, there is foam insulation tape supplied with the kit so help plug any gaps to make it as airtight as possible for better flow onto the intercooler. Once that was done I could get the intercooler on.
I then connected up the outlet pipe to the elbow to make sure everything lined up properly, the JDM tyte yo Greddy silicon joiners are being replaced with more purple silicon to keep it inline with the rest of the bay.
I had the turbo back from Turbo Dynamics by this point so I tried that on for size.
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- Joined
- Jan 8, 2018
- Messages
- 228
Haha I know, I'm tempted to paint it
jeffohlen_90
Well-known member
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- Jan 12, 2018
- Messages
- 208
Matching purple alternator 
Spendyrx
Ovis Aries Penetrator
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- Jan 8, 2018
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- 4,285
Haha don't do this ???Matching purple alternator
looks ace
deanflowers
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2018
- Messages
- 127
Caerphilly polishers did all the polishing on my old car. They did everything for something ridiculous like 130 quid back 2006 sort of time. Not sure if they are still going but they are not far away.
Get the alternator and the stuff on the front of the motor polished i reckon
Get the alternator and the stuff on the front of the motor polished i reckon
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2018
- Messages
- 228
Moving on, sorted out the new Walbro GTS450 fuel pump and necessary wiring and fitting in the tank once I had drained it. Also had a Feed style baffle tank to fit so did that too, a bit fiddly and managed to produce a bit of blood from rubbing against the tank opening but seemed to go in ok without the level sender catching anything so hopefully will work properly, I decided to cable tie it to the existing plastic baffle in the tank to keep it in place and allow the gate to open on it. Also hardwired the fuel pump at the same time.
The new Beatrush strut brace arrived so fitted that and then ran all the necessary vac lines and tied them to the ABS lines on the bulkhead.
Then decided to install my Re-Amemiya pod and boost gauge for the steering wheel cowling. Once that was all hooked up came a reasonable momentous moment because we put power through the car for the first time in a long time to check it was working, it was thankfully and cool to see it matches the rest of the oem gauges perfectly so looks nice and neat.
Also has lights for the first time in a while lol.
The new Beatrush strut brace arrived so fitted that and then ran all the necessary vac lines and tied them to the ABS lines on the bulkhead.
Then decided to install my Re-Amemiya pod and boost gauge for the steering wheel cowling. Once that was all hooked up came a reasonable momentous moment because we put power through the car for the first time in a long time to check it was working, it was thankfully and cool to see it matches the rest of the oem gauges perfectly so looks nice and neat.
Also has lights for the first time in a while lol.
