Joeybratten
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2018
- Messages
- 207
I'll be looking to get a draggy this year aswell, see what numbers an old school turbo can set 
Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build
- Thread starter Copyninja
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I broke it quickly...And repeatedly...Chaste White Rebuild- Latest: RandomVillager
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Ferrox117
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 7, 2022
- Messages
- 602
How much is the kit?It is a big old turbo and should do well at 2.0bar, looking forward to you joining the 100-200 leaderboard ha!
My 2nd place suddenly feels a lot warmer!
I want a piece of this too!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
New parts arrived for some well deserved and some overdue maintenance.
New braided brake lines (nothing whatsoever wrong with the old project mu lines but just thought as the system will need to be flushed and bled may as well get new lines as the car is faster than its ever been).
New clutch line - this is going back as it was not required because i forgot it already had a braided clutch line from the MC to the clutch slave cylinder. If anyone wants this please reach out.
New clutch slave cylinder - turns out the current one was just fine and the issue was elsewhere..see below.
New oil service was well overdue. I change oil every 3-4 months but it's been nearly 6-7 months since the last change.
The eagle eyed among you will notice 2 walbro fuel pumps. My mate with a 1000whp R35 GTR had 2x walbro 450 high pressure pumps lying around as spares for his setup and when he found out I was running out pump with the Bosch 044...lets just say he offered them up immediately to help me get into the 5s range sooner rather than later. Although, not the original plan it seems i wont have to worry about running out of pump...like ever!!
My mate Kev come out to get the fd back on the road and carry out the much needed overdue maintenance.
Needs some TLC to the body work and ideally a full respray to be perfect again.
When the old clutch slave cylinder came out..Kev confirmed this connector failed and oil was weeping out of there. Thats why my clutch pedal was loosing pressure, turns out the slave cylinder was fine.
I completely forgot there was a Tilton flow valve already installed on the clutch line...this explains a lot about driveline reliability. Over 300+ 100-200 runs and counting. I did wonder if it was luck the that got me to 300+ 100-200 runs...turns out the little flow valve was doing it's job and doing it well.
Kev made up a new line and connector...but we decided to use the new clutch slave cylinder anyways as there will be more 100-200 abuse incoming.
Overall a successful day carrying out routine maintenance.
New clutch slave cylinder and brake lines installed and brake fluid flushed and pressure bled. The pedal feel has come back to life. This maintenance was well overdue.
Oil and filter changed. We went through the oil and filter with a fine toothcoombe to ensure nothing untoward going on inside the engine and happy to report...all is well. No apex seals, bearings etc etc found in the oil! Boring stuff just oil in the oil! lol
Didn't have time to swap in the dual pumps...but this will be happening in a couple weeks. Thinking I need to address the rest of the fuel system at the same time. I will add a radium primary fuel rail with Asnu 1500cc injectors. I am currently at 90%dc at a 24psi peak with 4700cc of fuel flow. Should be up to 6000cc in a couple of weeks and dual pumps....hoping this allows me to up the boost and then back into 100-200 testing! Lets get the 5s run.
New braided brake lines (nothing whatsoever wrong with the old project mu lines but just thought as the system will need to be flushed and bled may as well get new lines as the car is faster than its ever been).
New clutch line - this is going back as it was not required because i forgot it already had a braided clutch line from the MC to the clutch slave cylinder. If anyone wants this please reach out.
New clutch slave cylinder - turns out the current one was just fine and the issue was elsewhere..see below.
New oil service was well overdue. I change oil every 3-4 months but it's been nearly 6-7 months since the last change.
The eagle eyed among you will notice 2 walbro fuel pumps. My mate with a 1000whp R35 GTR had 2x walbro 450 high pressure pumps lying around as spares for his setup and when he found out I was running out pump with the Bosch 044...lets just say he offered them up immediately to help me get into the 5s range sooner rather than later. Although, not the original plan it seems i wont have to worry about running out of pump...like ever!!
My mate Kev come out to get the fd back on the road and carry out the much needed overdue maintenance.
Needs some TLC to the body work and ideally a full respray to be perfect again.
When the old clutch slave cylinder came out..Kev confirmed this connector failed and oil was weeping out of there. Thats why my clutch pedal was loosing pressure, turns out the slave cylinder was fine.
I completely forgot there was a Tilton flow valve already installed on the clutch line...this explains a lot about driveline reliability. Over 300+ 100-200 runs and counting. I did wonder if it was luck the that got me to 300+ 100-200 runs...turns out the little flow valve was doing it's job and doing it well.
Kev made up a new line and connector...but we decided to use the new clutch slave cylinder anyways as there will be more 100-200 abuse incoming.
Overall a successful day carrying out routine maintenance.
New clutch slave cylinder and brake lines installed and brake fluid flushed and pressure bled. The pedal feel has come back to life. This maintenance was well overdue.
Oil and filter changed. We went through the oil and filter with a fine toothcoombe to ensure nothing untoward going on inside the engine and happy to report...all is well. No apex seals, bearings etc etc found in the oil! Boring stuff just oil in the oil! lol
Didn't have time to swap in the dual pumps...but this will be happening in a couple weeks. Thinking I need to address the rest of the fuel system at the same time. I will add a radium primary fuel rail with Asnu 1500cc injectors. I am currently at 90%dc at a 24psi peak with 4700cc of fuel flow. Should be up to 6000cc in a couple of weeks and dual pumps....hoping this allows me to up the boost and then back into 100-200 testing! Lets get the 5s run.
Last edited:
Joeybratten
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2018
- Messages
- 207
Nice one man! Lots of work done! Hoping to get the brakes bled on mine this weekend!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
Maintenance clean completed for the RX7 and M3.
It's had really good use over the past months and you can tell with the brake dust being baked on the wheels.
The paintwork is still looking great considering it was in for a paint correction over 18 months ago
.
My mobile detailer completed the below.
Pre wash
Snowfoamed
Safe washed
Deep clean on the TE37 SL's including barrels
Dried
Hand glaze applied
Topped off with a coat of Soft99 Kiwami to lock in the shine
Tyres dressed
Exterior glass polished
Should be more slippery through the air with all the dirt and grime gone!
Difficult to capture how good it looks on a phone camera...but it looked like glass when Ben was done with it. The paintwork came back to life.
Keeping these wheels clean will be a challenge, but hey, that's the sign of a car that gets driven and enjoyed!
Still cant believe I landed a set of TE37SLs for my FD, absolutely buzzing. These wheels have always been a dream. Sometimes I cant believe the fd has such a sweet wheel and tire setup - TE37SLs and Cup 2s, doesn't get much better than that for performance driving!
The FD's itching for action! This JDM legend is prepped and primed for another thrashing.
The M3 received the same treatment as the RX7 and is doing well. The engine is a masterpiece so buttery smooth and linear.
Not to be outdone, the daily driver went in for some TLC too, and it's holding its own against the M3 and RX7! It's proving to be a fantastic all-rounder, and honestly, seeing it perform so well makes me understand why the F10 M5s have such a reputation, a wolf in sheeps clothing as they call it.
So which car should I take for a drive?! Always a tough choice.
It's had really good use over the past months and you can tell with the brake dust being baked on the wheels.
The paintwork is still looking great considering it was in for a paint correction over 18 months ago
.My mobile detailer completed the below.
Pre wash
Snowfoamed
Safe washed
Deep clean on the TE37 SL's including barrels
Dried
Hand glaze applied
Topped off with a coat of Soft99 Kiwami to lock in the shine
Tyres dressed
Exterior glass polished
Should be more slippery through the air with all the dirt and grime gone
!Difficult to capture how good it looks on a phone camera...but it looked like glass when Ben was done with it. The paintwork came back to life.
Keeping these wheels clean will be a challenge, but hey, that's the sign of a car that gets driven and enjoyed!
Still cant believe I landed a set of TE37SLs for my FD, absolutely buzzing. These wheels have always been a dream. Sometimes I cant believe the fd has such a sweet wheel and tire setup - TE37SLs and Cup 2s, doesn't get much better than that for performance driving!
The FD's itching for action! This JDM legend is prepped and primed for another thrashing.
The M3 received the same treatment as the RX7 and is doing well. The engine is a masterpiece so buttery smooth and linear.
Not to be outdone, the daily driver went in for some TLC too, and it's holding its own against the M3 and RX7! It's proving to be a fantastic all-rounder, and honestly, seeing it perform so well makes me understand why the F10 M5s have such a reputation, a wolf in sheeps clothing as they call it.
So which car should I take for a drive?! Always a tough choice.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
Ran a random experiment at low boost to determine how anyone or more importantly how I can run the best and fastest draggy time for the 100-200km/h using the stock fd box with a max engine rev limit of 9krpm, some streetports and most bridge ports will likely fall into this category.
In my last validation test, holding third gear to 8700rpm for 60-100mph was way quicker than shifting to fourth, so I wanted to see if the same trick would work here in the 100-200 runs.
For the first test, I just kept third gear in all the way to 8700rpm and then shifted to fourth. Let's see if it beats shifting earlier?!
It's a very conservative tune as only testing but it ran a respectable 7.85s 100-200.
For the second test, I shifted early around 8000rpm ish in 3rd gear.
Wow, that was a close one! Even though the run wasn't perfect due to a tiny slope messing with the data (seriously, by only 0.03%!), it turns out my hunch was right.
For those of you running a stock FD gearbox (me included) with a 13b engine limited to around 9k rpm, shifting at 8700rpm or 8000rpm in 3rd gear seems to be just as good in the 100-200 sprints. Honestly, with the manual transmission, that little bit of difference did not seem to make a huge impact.
Now, if you've got a fancy semi-PP setup that lets you scream past 9k rpm to 10k or even 11k, then yeah, holding third gear longer to the engines rev limit will definitely shave off some time in that 100-200km/h sprint – maybe like 0.4-0.5 seconds. But for most of us mere mortals, just focus on that sweet spot and shift when it feels right. Because at the end of the day, with a manual, that perfect shift is gonna be tough to nail anyway and the vast majority of us will loose 0.4-0.5s in the manual shift for the 100-200 runs. In summary, shift up when you are ready.
For me the above result sealed the deal. Holding onto third gear all the way to 8,700 rpm would not give me any advantage because the stock shift was inevitable resulting in time loss. So, for the higher boost runs, I decided to shift up around 8,000 rpm instead.
This is where things got interesting. Pushing things harder meant I maxed out my fuel pump and injectors! I Had to play with the tuning to find a happy medium between how much fuel the injectors were delivering (duty cycle) and what the fuel pump could handle. In the end, I ended up lowering the base fuel pressure to 3.5 bar to get everything working smoothly. This resulted in something I did not think was possible in a G35 1050 and a street port....yet here we are!!
Finally in the 5s range.
The G35 wants another 3-4psi to get into its sweet spot.
I'll do a deeper dive with data on the boost, afr/lambda etc etc used on this run.
In my last validation test, holding third gear to 8700rpm for 60-100mph was way quicker than shifting to fourth, so I wanted to see if the same trick would work here in the 100-200 runs.
For the first test, I just kept third gear in all the way to 8700rpm and then shifted to fourth. Let's see if it beats shifting earlier?!
It's a very conservative tune as only testing but it ran a respectable 7.85s 100-200.
For the second test, I shifted early around 8000rpm ish in 3rd gear.
Wow, that was a close one! Even though the run wasn't perfect due to a tiny slope messing with the data (seriously, by only 0.03%!), it turns out my hunch was right.
For those of you running a stock FD gearbox (me included) with a 13b engine limited to around 9k rpm, shifting at 8700rpm or 8000rpm in 3rd gear seems to be just as good in the 100-200 sprints. Honestly, with the manual transmission, that little bit of difference did not seem to make a huge impact.
Now, if you've got a fancy semi-PP setup that lets you scream past 9k rpm to 10k or even 11k, then yeah, holding third gear longer to the engines rev limit will definitely shave off some time in that 100-200km/h sprint – maybe like 0.4-0.5 seconds. But for most of us mere mortals, just focus on that sweet spot and shift when it feels right. Because at the end of the day, with a manual, that perfect shift is gonna be tough to nail anyway and the vast majority of us will loose 0.4-0.5s in the manual shift for the 100-200 runs. In summary, shift up when you are ready.
For me the above result sealed the deal. Holding onto third gear all the way to 8,700 rpm would not give me any advantage because the stock shift was inevitable resulting in time loss. So, for the higher boost runs, I decided to shift up around 8,000 rpm instead.
This is where things got interesting. Pushing things harder meant I maxed out my fuel pump and injectors! I Had to play with the tuning to find a happy medium between how much fuel the injectors were delivering (duty cycle) and what the fuel pump could handle. In the end, I ended up lowering the base fuel pressure to 3.5 bar to get everything working smoothly. This resulted in something I did not think was possible in a G35 1050 and a street port....yet here we are!!
Finally in the 5s range.
The G35 wants another 3-4psi to get into its sweet spot.
I'll do a deeper dive with data on the boost, afr/lambda etc etc used on this run.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
Spoke to Omar (Raceonly) and he's close to recording a supersonic draggy run in his baller spec 13b. So now Omar and Mark are close to knock me down a peg or two. Until they do thought it best to update the leaderboard to reflect current standings as I've also just run an all time personal best and finally got into the 5s range.
Whats next? ofcourse 4s range because 5s range was soo last week
Whats next? ofcourse 4s range because 5s range was soo last week
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
The 100-200 leaderboard just went supersonic! Omar from Raceonly has unlocked the world of draggy data collection and is loving it!
This was a run is his RX7 FD running the below mods.
Turbo - Precision 6885 1.28ar 38psi
Gearbox - F80/82 DCT
Engine - 13b Bridge port
Fuel - E85
This is a run in a full fat Rx7 with Apple Carplay and AC.
See below 100-200 run done on the streets of Mexico.
While it stings to lose a spot on the leaderboard, Omar's 13B with a DCT is a game-changer. This setup pushes into 1000whp territory typically dominated by GTRs, Turbo Ss, R8s, and Huracans! The DCT might be controversial, but with a 13B pushing that kind of power, a stock transmission wouldn't stand a chance. At these levels, even 550+hp is risky for stock gearboxes.
Top marks! Sharing your setup and real-world data is the kind of content we all crave (seriously, thanks!).
This was a run is his RX7 FD running the below mods.
Turbo - Precision 6885 1.28ar 38psi
Gearbox - F80/82 DCT
Engine - 13b Bridge port
Fuel - E85
This is a run in a full fat Rx7 with Apple Carplay and AC.
See below 100-200 run done on the streets of Mexico.
While it stings to lose a spot on the leaderboard, Omar's 13B with a DCT is a game-changer. This setup pushes into 1000whp territory typically dominated by GTRs, Turbo Ss, R8s, and Huracans! The DCT might be controversial, but with a 13B pushing that kind of power, a stock transmission wouldn't stand a chance. At these levels, even 550+hp is risky for stock gearboxes.
Top marks! Sharing your setup and real-world data is the kind of content we all crave (seriously, thanks!).
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
100-200 Leaderboard for 13B RX-7s.
This 100-200 leaderboard was created to see how our 13B RX-7s perform in the real world. It's all about pushing your car to its limits on the streets (safely, of course) and seeing how it stacks up. No cheating with drag strips or fancy prepped surfaces, just pure street performance.
Draggy video overlay and report is required for verification and validation. This means no one can cheat and again not sure why anyone would want to?
Here's the nitty-gritty:
Engine - Must have a 13B engine. No exceptions, gotta be 13B power only! No NOS
Transmission: Anything goes! OEM, dog box, sequential, DCT, ZF8, Autos, aftermarket H-patterns - whatever gets your wheels spinning.
Differential: Stock diff or aftermarket is fine. No electric drive trains or rockets bolted to the diff. Remember, 13B power only!
Fuel: Any fuel is allowed including Race fuel.
Tyres: Street legal tyres only. No drag racing wheels or slicks allowed. Real world street performance, not a prepped track showdown.
The Rules: It's all about having fun and pushing our RX-7s to their limits. No hard feelings if you beat me (although I was bummed to lose that 2nd place spot!).
Above all keep it safe for you and everyone else. The preference is all runs are carried out on private roads and empty streets of Mexico or unprepped surfaces on Vmax events.
Last edited:
Ferrox117
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 7, 2022
- Messages
- 602
100-200 Leaderboard for 13B RX-7s.
This 100-200 leaderboard was created to see how our 13B RX-7s perform in the real world. It's all about pushing your car to its limits on the streets (safely, of course) and seeing how it stacks up. No cheating with drag strips or fancy prepped surfaces, just pure street performance.
Draggy video overlay and report is required for verification and validation. This means no one can cheat and again not sure why anyone would want to?
Here's the nitty-gritty:
Engine - Must have a 13B engine. No exceptions, gotta be 13B power only! No NOS
Transmission: Anything goes! OEM, dog box, sequential, DCT, ZF8, Autos, aftermarket H-patterns - whatever gets your wheels spinning.
Differential: Stock diff or aftermarket is fine. No electric drive trains or rockets bolted to the diff. Remember, 13B power only!
Fuel: Any fuel is allowed including Race fuel.
Tyres: Street legal tyres only. No drag racing wheels or slicks allowed. Real world street performance, not a prepped track showdown.
The Rules: It's all about having fun and pushing our RX-7s to their limits. No hard feelings if you beat me (although I was bummed to lose that 2nd place spot!).
Above all keep it safe for you and everyone else. The preference is all runs are carried out on private roads and empty streets of Mexico or unprepped surfaces on Vmax events.
here we go
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
My current fuel pump, the Bosch 044, seems maxed out around 23-24psi. It's not cutting it for maintaining stable fuel flow.
As most of you know my mate with the 1000whp GTR gave me twin walbro 450s. I'm thinking a singe walbro 450 high pressure pump might be the answer. It should flow more fuel and handle the higher pressure better, keeping differential fuel pressure stable at higher boost pressures.
Overall, on paper it seems like the Walbro 450 could be the fix. The thought process is 50psi base fuel pressure + 30psi boost pressure = 80psi which seems like the walbro will flow 302lph vs 262lph, so an approximate 15% increase in fuel flow. I hope this is enough. Time will tell.
My motto is only fix what is broken and hoping the walbro can do the job.
Running the feed in tank baffle which seems to be working.
Got the bosch 044 out and in comparison it doesn't inspire confidence as it's half the size. (Thats what she said!!)
The walbro 450 high pressure pump is in.
Rusty OEM fuel hanger still hanging in there. Mad to think its got me in the 5s 100-200 range.
Also got a new v3 aem nozzle to replace the old v2 version as a cycle of life improvement.
My logs were showing something funky with the WMI injection flow, and after spending a couple of minutes chasing the gremlin, I finally got to the bottom of it.
Turns out, the AEM filter decided to self-destruct in spectacular fashion, splitting right down the middle and causing a huge leak. Here's the kicker: I only noticed because the pressure would drop whenever the WMI system kicked in, which I saw during a cold engine AEM controller test.
If I was still rocking a PFC, this engine probably would have blown up five times over (by now) and I wouldn't have even known it. Seriously, modern ECU's are a lifesaver, and spending the time to analyze logs objectively like a detective is the only reason I caught this before disaster struck.
Long story short, the logs showed my injectors were running at a 2% higher duty cycle than expected when the WMI was spraying. Tracking down that little 2% loss led me right to the culprit.
No easy wins here, but once again, data logging proves its worth. Thanks to accurate info, this whole mess got caught before anything bad happened.
As most of you know my mate with the 1000whp GTR gave me twin walbro 450s. I'm thinking a singe walbro 450 high pressure pump might be the answer. It should flow more fuel and handle the higher pressure better, keeping differential fuel pressure stable at higher boost pressures.
Overall, on paper it seems like the Walbro 450 could be the fix. The thought process is 50psi base fuel pressure + 30psi boost pressure = 80psi which seems like the walbro will flow 302lph vs 262lph, so an approximate 15% increase in fuel flow. I hope this is enough. Time will tell.
My motto is only fix what is broken and hoping the walbro can do the job.
Running the feed in tank baffle which seems to be working.
Got the bosch 044 out and in comparison it doesn't inspire confidence as it's half the size. (Thats what she said!!)
The walbro 450 high pressure pump is in.
Rusty OEM fuel hanger still hanging in there. Mad to think its got me in the 5s 100-200 range.
Also got a new v3 aem nozzle to replace the old v2 version as a cycle of life improvement.
My logs were showing something funky with the WMI injection flow, and after spending a couple of minutes chasing the gremlin, I finally got to the bottom of it.
Turns out, the AEM filter decided to self-destruct in spectacular fashion, splitting right down the middle and causing a huge leak. Here's the kicker: I only noticed because the pressure would drop whenever the WMI system kicked in, which I saw during a cold engine AEM controller test.
If I was still rocking a PFC, this engine probably would have blown up five times over (by now) and I wouldn't have even known it. Seriously, modern ECU's are a lifesaver, and spending the time to analyze logs objectively like a detective is the only reason I caught this before disaster struck.
Long story short, the logs showed my injectors were running at a 2% higher duty cycle than expected when the WMI was spraying. Tracking down that little 2% loss led me right to the culprit.
No easy wins here, but once again, data logging proves its worth. Thanks to accurate info, this whole mess got caught before anything bad happened.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
I did some low boost testing to compare differential fuel flow at 1bar between the old bosch 044 and new Walbro 450.
Bosch 044 - This run started off base fuel pressure with the bosch 044 at 50psi dropping to 46.8psi on the top of 3rd stabilizing to 47psi for the rest of 4th gear. 100-200 was completed in 7.81s,
The walbro 450 started the run with 50psi and shows a similar differential fuel pressure drop. Its not the end of the world as there could be some parasitic loss but i was hoping the walbro being more modern and powerful pump could have pushed through it and held a stable 50psi diff fp. The 100-200 was completed in 7.62 so no performance loss and within 0.2s of the previous pump at this level on a very safe and conservative tune.
On paper the walbro 450 is meant to flow more at 50psi base + 15.5 boost = approx 65psi. An approx 23% increase in fuel flow....yet in reality the logs confirm its no better than the older 044. It's truly very strange, perhaps a single walbro 450 is not better than the old school 044.
Bosch 044 - This run started off base fuel pressure with the bosch 044 at 50psi dropping to 46.8psi on the top of 3rd stabilizing to 47psi for the rest of 4th gear. 100-200 was completed in 7.81s,
The walbro 450 started the run with 50psi and shows a similar differential fuel pressure drop. Its not the end of the world as there could be some parasitic loss but i was hoping the walbro being more modern and powerful pump could have pushed through it and held a stable 50psi diff fp. The 100-200 was completed in 7.62 so no performance loss and within 0.2s of the previous pump at this level on a very safe and conservative tune.
On paper the walbro 450 is meant to flow more at 50psi base + 15.5 boost = approx 65psi. An approx 23% increase in fuel flow....yet in reality the logs confirm its no better than the older 044. It's truly very strange, perhaps a single walbro 450 is not better than the old school 044.
mattdavies
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2021
- Messages
- 15
This is interesting. Are you maybe at the limit of another part of your fuel system ? Fuel lines are they AN6 or AN8 ? A filter maybe?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
Indeed, it seems plausible. Currently, I'm running AN6 lines throughout. I've integrated two inline filters, which I plan to disassemble and clean to assess any impact.
One consideration is the lack of 10 AWG wiring within the submersible section of the fuel hanger causing a voltage drop. Although I've ensured 10 AWG wiring from the battery to the fuel hanger, there's a possibility that the internal electrical connector might not handle the full electrical load as expected.
Another potential factor could be the accuracy of the fuel flow data I acquired for the Bosch 044 fuel pump from here. It's conceivable that the Bosch pump might exhibit a flow rate similar to that of the Walbro 450, contrary to the initial data obtained.
Joeybratten
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2018
- Messages
- 207
What's the residue on the filter, looks a bit like limescale?
With both pumps exhibiting the same sort of performance loss, I'd definitely take a look at the filters incase of any blockage etc I had an oem one fail on me within 4k miles
With both pumps exhibiting the same sort of performance loss, I'd definitely take a look at the filters incase of any blockage etc I had an oem one fail on me within 4k miles
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
Meth and water
it was likely weeping before it failed in all its glory. Do you mean oem fuel filter fail?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 688
Did a comparison test on high boost approx 24psi between the bosch 044 and walbro 450.
Bosch 044
Differential fp - 50psi
Drops to 35psi and holds.
Walbro 450
Differential fp - 50psi
Drops to 44psi but clearly the winner of the two pumps at 24.5psi.
However, both pumps still display weird oscillations. Not entirely sure what that is.
Bosch 044
Differential fp - 50psi
Drops to 35psi and holds.
Walbro 450
Differential fp - 50psi
Drops to 44psi but clearly the winner of the two pumps at 24.5psi.
However, both pumps still display weird oscillations. Not entirely sure what that is.
