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Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build

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This is good shit!

I still have an Apexi PFC in the loft i was going to put back in but this way I can spend another £2k on an ECU! :)
 
rx_dreamer said:
This is good shit!

I still have an Apexi PFC in the loft i was going to put back in but this way I can spend another £2k on an ECU! :)
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Stock twins seq make a case for the pfc but if you're going single turbo....there is virtually no benefit to stick with a PFC in 2023 😅.

Also you really don't need sex spec gucci ECU's either (A link G4X plug in will do the job at 1k less with all the modern safety features and controls to boot). Go with whatever you, your builder and tuner recommends!
 
Copyninja said:
Fair play if you like the platform and it's certainly better than the power fc 😂 . I believe Haltech changed philosophies and went from port open to shut and then a bit backwards in their newest base maps for injector timing....I don't really agree with their latest base map to which they mentioned it's up to the tuner to decide, which makes sense to me.

To give you an idea....I left my link G4+ at the base injector timing of 130deg across the entire operating range. When I later optimised it...the power gains were inconsequential, like 0.1s on the dragy 100-200kph if that! You're not magically going to pick up 100hp or 150hp because you've nailed injector timing, pw, staging, dead times and anyone who believes this has likely misunderstood this topic! The reason for nailing or getting in the right ball park is for mpgs, efficiency and less fuel wastage! Low down in cruise and idle areas the engine will feel more responsive and less fumy if that makes sense. For e.g - Think about it for a second, if you're on full boost 20psi -25psi and your injector duty cycle is 85% - 90%. This means your injectors are being held open for nearly the entire cycle! Don't overthink it and go with either OEM numbers or sensible numbers and you cant go far wrong!

Happy to assist where possible with your base tables to get you into a sensible/reasonable place before you start up the car. When I first tuned my rx7....except for a few things....I changed virtually everything on the base map to suit my application. In your case, you have no choice in the matter, because there is no base map!
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I might just take you up on that mate, don't want to keep spamming your build thread, but would be good to start building/ spreading expertise on the forum! You are right about injection angle at high duties, for me it was something I wanted to get in the right ballpark for cranking and idle to help build a reasonable map there- wanted/ needed to get the car starting relatively nicely and idling so I could do checks on other aspects such as water pump, fuel pump, etc. As well as check for any wiring errors.
 
marco said:
I might just take you up on that mate, don't want to keep spamming your build thread, but would be good to start building/ spreading expertise on the forum! You are right about injection angle at high duties, for me it was something I wanted to get in the right ballpark for cranking and idle to help build a reasonable map there- wanted/ needed to get the car starting relatively nicely and idling so I could do checks on other aspects such as water pump, fuel pump, etc. As well as check for any wiring errors.
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Sure no worries. You can pick anything you feel is reasonable for cranking and idle from 0-330 degrees for most ECU base maps will be in this range. Some of the Haltech base maps get into 400+ degrees, again it is a base map so you need to tune/figure it out!

In my testing going by oem Mazda data 90 degrees is a good start for crank and idle below 5krpm! Play around till you find the richest AFR and don't be scared of using the full 0-330 timing for idle and cruise conditions. Only 1 or 2 settings will get you into the richest afr window. You should be looking for less fumes, less inj duty cycle as you're now in the optimal injection window (less fuel wastage), crisper throttle response with smoother idle and cruise conditions.
1687892837216.png
 
Copyninja said:
Sure no worries. You can pick anything you feel is reasonable for cranking and idle from 0-330 degrees for most ECU base maps will be in this range. Some of the Haltech base maps get into 400+ degrees, again it is a base map so you need to tune/figure it out!

In my testing going by oem Mazda data 90 degrees is a good start for crank and idle below 5krpm! Play around till you find the richest AFR and don't be scared of using the full 0-330 timing for idle and cruise conditions. Only 1 or 2 settings will get you into the richest afr window. You should be looking for less fumes, less inj duty cycle as you're now in the optimal injection window (less fuel wastage), crisper throttle response with smoother idle and cruise conditions.
View attachment 36409
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where did you get this picture from? I got this one from the jdm FD manual.
1688932172099.png

it starts at 155 and goes to 335 above 4000rpm.
 
I've just installed the Excessive lower intake manifold, refreshed the primary and secondary injectors, added a new 100-amp relay for the direct fire ignition system, and improved the heat management in my car for the LIM.

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Previously, I only had the HKS heat shield for this setup. I haven't gone crazy with the heat management mods costing ££££s, very simple and exceptionally frugal mods DEI's Titanium exhaust wrap for the down pipe and a Nimbus G2 dual layer aluminium heat shield for the LIM.

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It's finally all back together after a short break and now it's time to put it to the test. Let's see what this can do!
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Shining Bright in Montego Blue: Embracing the Sunlight with Style and Grace!
Screenshot_20230716-171907_Gallery.jpg
 
Yesterday, I took advantage of the good weather and started tuning at 14.5 psi. I compared the data to my previous runs at the same boost pressure, and found that the biggest improvements came at 6,000 rpm and above. Below that rpm, there was no noticeable difference.

The below numbers represent an increase in fuel delivery at higher rpms. All things within the map are exactly the same as before no change to the setup, the engine is now requiring more fuel top end.

One factor which comes to mind is, more flow = more air = more fuel requirement = hopefully more power or in my case i think it's holding onto the power much better than it did before.

For all the Data Nerds out there...see below
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I need to do some dragy gps testing from 100-200 to confirm if it's objectively faster top end (or not). The fuel table numbers suggest it's holding onto power better than it did before!
 
Montego Blue Rotary: Gleaming in Reverse under Sunlit Skies 🌞!!

Instagram DMs are flooding in, with people speculating that the Montego Blue rotary is equipped with a Bridgeport after seeing it in action for 100-200kph runs. Let's set the record straight: this beast boasts a street-ported motor.



While performing a full systems check before increasing the boost to 25psi this weekend, I observed a recurring loss of coolant after each run. This raised concerns, and I'm seeking to understand the potential reasons behind this coolant loss.

The obvious one was did I kill the motor? or are the 250+ 100-200kph draggy runs catching up with me? Perhaps...so lets investigate further!

Took the front bumper off to have a good scan of the entire cooling system and make it easier to check for leaks.

IMG-20230816-WA0042.jpg


Scooted beneath the car, and the mystery was swiftly solved. The water pump is showing its true colors, leaking from its regular spot and trickling out of the tiny orifice at the base of the shaft. Looks like it's waving goodbye!

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Luck was on my side this time as I combed through the data. Caught a break by spotting this early – a mere 50-60ml slipping away after each boosted run. The attention to detail has its rewards, as this could have been a catastrophic failure at 25 psi. Remember, every detail counts when you're in the realm of these machines, folks! 🚀🔧🔍!!

Summing up and aiming to capture these lessons for our shared knowledge...

I completed 10+ draggy runs at 15psi, establishing a baseline with the new excessive manifold and perfecting the tune. A pre-run ritual I always complete before starting the fd is checking two vital factors—oil level and coolant level.

In the span of 250+ runs I've logged, minimal oil or coolant loss raised no alarms. However, in this specific series, a disconcerting 50-60ml loss per run was noted.

Acting on it, I kept an eagle eye for white smoke during idle, cruise, and acceleration in the subsequent start-ups. Luckily, no smoke materialized, eliminating water seal concerns. Nevertheless, a coolant leak remained to be tackled.

Bumper off, an inspection beneath revealed the smoking gun: the water pump was the troublemaker, luckily no detective work required.

Always be vigilant around these machines, Gentlemen!
 
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Like you say, attention to detail looks like it's saved you here. Are you not tempted to replace the stock pump with adapters and an EWP set up?
 
Satoshi-FD3 said:
Like you say, attention to detail looks like it's saved you here. Are you not tempted to replace the stock pump with adapters and an EWP set up?
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Definitely considered it but seeing as my hp targets are rather conservative at 500rwhp or 600fwhp. The stock pump will do for me. Its been reliable until now and so I've stuck with genuine oem stuff.

If i was aiming for 800+hp revving to 12k+ rpm....that would be another story.
 
Keeping it authentic with a Genuine Mazda RX7 FD3S water pump replacement. Turning up the rotary love as the old one did an admiral job for nearly 30 years! Confirmed the seals failed on the old one...well they were starting to fail.

Screenshot_20230905-215653_Gallery.jpg


Spur-of-the-moment decision during the RX7 downtime! Had a catch up with Stu from Rotortorque, and upgraded to the Link G4X ECU! Time to unleash all the power the mighty G35 1050 can offer! 19 new inputs (over my previous G4+ which is still an epic modern ecu), lightning-fast performance, and a whole new level of control.

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Time for a fresh tune-up! With the new Link G4X ECU in place.

Can have it all now, not just the safety but able to run all the additional sensors
 
What additional sensors are you looking to run ?

Will be interesting to see what benefits in the real world performance the new ECU will give you
 
mattdavies said:
What additional sensors are you looking to run ?

Will be interesting to see what benefits in the real world performance the new ECU will give you
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EGT
Emap
3 Stage Boost Control for multiple switchable maps on the fly.
(Clutch Switch and New wheel speed sensors
To set up
Flat Shift
Launch control
Rolling Launch
Boost by gear/time/rpm)
WMI injection controlled by ECU
All the safety redundancies

I imagine the 100-200kph for the same boost pressure wont change for the new ECU compared to the G4+. I'll simply have faster, more control and increased safety when running higher boost pressures as I can see the entire picture and total efficiency of the entire system. The benefits I hope will be the rolling launch and flat shift. Providing it works as expected...that may help the 100-200 sprints. Time will tell!
 
Are you going DBW? It's becoming on my to do list, just the OEM throttle body is crazy complex, it must have so much functionality for a reason!
 
rx_dreamer said:
Are you going DBW? It's becoming on my to do list, just the OEM throttle body is crazy complex, it must have so much functionality for a reason!
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Not right now....but have more than enough inputs now to make dbw happen.

I may do it with the 4barrel intake upgrade.
 

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