2002 Bathurst - Innocent Blue - initialDean Build

[initialDean]

Which is better - Twin Apexi Intakes sat there OR one of those ARC Ali boxes with 2 panels filters in?

 

[cib24]

They are both open element so they will heatsoak when not moving, but I'd go with the Apexi filters. They look better and actually filter quite well for what they are.

 

[initialDean]

cool.... thats what ive got
Just like the look of the arc ones
even prefer stock tbf

 

[initialDean]

That's a can of worms. Given how close to stock your car is like mine it's a simple case of:

1. Replace worn out items
2. Change oil every 2,000-3,000 miles
3. Change plugs every 3,000-5,000 miles
4. If you are on a Power FC make sure you have a good tune with optimal temp correction setup so you can floor it when it's hot (you will just have less power)
5. Fill up with at least 97 octane.

That's kind of it. I have followed that plus done a few upgrades and my car has been very reliable even when I let it heatsoak after switching it off to 115 C with the bonnet closed.

It's the replacing worn items that is expensive as there is always something every year that needs replacing.

Hi Mate Your point 4 I have a feeling this might of been my issue..... flooring it in traffic with hot engine... can that ruin tips?
I do have a Power FC and this sounds like a mega thing to have.... no worries about losing power thats normal.

I want it to be bulletproof like my S2000 was LOLS thats never going to happen is it

 

[jack.am]

The filter elements on those ARC boxes disintegrate. On a stock twins car I'd probably suggest just keeping the airbox (unless moving to V/FMIC) and putting a K&N panel in it.

 

[cib24]

Hi Mate Your point 4 I have a feeling this might of been my issue..... flooring it in traffic with hot engine... can that ruin tips?
I do have a Power FC and this sounds like a mega thing to have.... no worries about losing power thats normal.

I want it to be bulletproof like my S2000 was LOLS thats never going to happen is it

Yes, your tune was probably sub-optimal. Whether that was a temp correction issue, ignition timing, fuel delivery, or other issue I can't say. I'm sure @Stu Rotortorque could tell you how your tune differs from theirs if he could download your data from your ECU and compare.

I'm not sure a 20 year old car can ever be bullet proof (at least in terms of wearable items), but I've had really good luck with mine over the last 5 years and more than 20,000 miles. Yes, I have needed to do some maintenance and do things like rebuild my turbos in addition to the mods I have put on my car, but the engine remains amazingly healthy. In fact, I had it compression tested back in November and the compression figures were on average about 7.7 bar across all faces and also on average about 0.1 bar higher on all faces than when I compression tested the car in April 2015 when I first bought it.

 

[cib24]

The filter elements on those ARC boxes disintegrate. On a stock twins car I'd probably suggest just keeping the airbox (unless moving to V/FMIC) and putting a K&N panel in it.

I made "398" horsepower on the dyno with a stock airbox and a paper filter with the mods in my sig. Not sure a K&N will make any difference as the stock air box and filter flow very well out of the box.

 

[initialDean]

I made "398" horsepower on the dyno with a stock airbox and a paper filter with the mods in my sig. Not sure a K&N will make any difference as the stock air box and filter flow very well out of the box.

I want that

 

[Paulm]

I made "398" horsepower on the dyno with a stock airbox and a paper filter with the mods in my sig. Not sure a K&N will make any difference as the stock air box and filter flow very well out of the box.

There is a bit of evidence that stock air boxes and piping are that well designed by the manufacturers that changing to many aftermarket setups will reduce power.

 

[initialDean]

There is a bit of evidence that stock air boxes and piping are that well designed by the manufacturers that changing to many aftermarket setups will reduce power.

I have my old air box, but no filter for it.... looks a bit broken too

 

[Jit]

I think Tom is selling a lovely AutoExe carbon intake on ebay. That would work a treat

 

[cib24]

I have my old air box, but no filter for it.... looks a bit broken too

I can get you a custom air box made to look like mine.

 

[GrantFD]

I can get you a custom air box made to look like mine.

View attachment 18475

How much would that cost?

 

[cib24]

How much would that cost?

I'll price it up for you. If you just want a plain gloss black finish instead of legit carbon fiber it's cheaper. Doesn't come with a filter so you can buy your own. It takes a 6" x 5" K&N cone.

 

[jack.am]

I made "398" horsepower on the dyno with a stock airbox and a paper filter with the mods in my sig. Not sure a K&N will make any difference as the stock air box and filter flow very well out of the box.

Probably an extra 5% power at most? They are less restrictive, but it's not going to be felt in the bum dyno.

 

[GrantFD]

I'll price it up for you. If you just want a plain gloss black finish instead of legit carbon fiber it's cheaper. Doesn't come with a filter so you can buy your own. It takes a 6" x 5" K&N cone.

Dont want to waste your time too much, its probably a little out of my price range .. just interesting to know how much it is compared to similar intakes..

 

[cib24]

Dont want to waste your time too much, its probably a little out of my price range .. just interesting to know how much it is compared to similar intakes..

It would be cheaper than the £500 Autoexe on eBay right now by quite a bit.

I ran the twin Apexis when I first got the car but it would heatsoak so badly that it really affected the driving experience (although it did pronounce the intake and blowoff noise).

I then ran the stock air box with a modified air duct to fit around my Greddy intercooler for 3.5 years. Yes, it heatsoaked but nowhere near as bad as the twin Apexi filters. I did however, learn that water injection is the saving grace of combatting heatsoaking air intake temps, especially if you are running a stock bonnet and a SMIC like I am, so I have been running that for the last 4 years.

Last year I moved to the custom carbon air box which was again modified and moulded to fit around my Greddy SMIC and to allow the bonnet to close. The difference between this and the stock air box is quite pronounced which surprised me. Intake temps in stop and go traffic are generally 10-12 degrees lower than they were with the stock air box, and 8-10 degrees lower when cruising on the motorway. The temps also drop much quicker when going from a stop and go situation to consistently moving. Furthermore, the intake and blowoff noises are back and the car hits stronger up top. I needed more fuel in my map after the change from the stock box. So, it definitely flows better than OEM whilst being a closed box true cold air design like the OEM air box.

The three stages of my engine bay below.

 

[GrantFD]

It would be cheaper than the £500 Autoexe on eBay right now by quite a bit.

I ran the twin Apexis when I first got the car but it would heatsoak so badly that it really affected the driving experience (although it did pronounce the intake and blowoff noise).

I then ran the stock air box with a modified air duct to fit around my Greddy intercooler for 3.5 years. Yes, it heatsoaked but nowhere near as bad as the twin Apexi filters. I did however, learn that water injection is the saving grace of combatting heatsoaking air intake temps, especially if you are running a stock bonnet and a SMIC like I am, so I have been running that for the last 4 years.

Last year I moved to the custom carbon air box which was again modified and moulded to fit around my Greddy SMIC and to allow the bonnet to close. The difference between this and the stock air box is quite pronounced which surprised me. Intake temps in stop and go traffic are generally 10-12 degrees lower than they were with the stock air box, and 8-10 degrees lower when cruising on the motorway. The temps also drop much quicker when going from a stop and go situation to consistently moving. Furthermore, the intake and blowoff noises are back and the car hits stronger up top. I needed more fuel in my map after the change from the stock box. So, it definitely flows better than OEM whilst being a closed box true cold air design like the OEM air box.

The three stages of my engine bay below.

View attachment 18479

View attachment 18480

View attachment 18483

Thanks Roy..
well... following that i dont think i'll ever be using the blitz air intakes i have in the garage...

Need to spend my RX7 funds on other things atm, but If my turbos survive this summer i may get in touch about one

Sorry to take over your post @initialDean

Cheers..

 

[initialDean]

Thanks Roy..
well... following that i dont think i'll ever be using the blitz air intakes i have in the garage...

Need to spend my RX7 funds on other things atm, but If my turbos survive this summer i may get in touch about one

Sorry to take over your post @initialDean

Cheers..

No Worries @GrantFD thats what its all for

 

[initialDean]

Whats this bit mean? @cib24

That's kind of it. I have followed that plus done a few upgrades and my car has been very reliable even when I let it heatsoak after switching it off to 115 C with the bonnet closed.