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2002 Bathurst - Innocent Blue - initialDean Build

but what ya gonna do? self build?
Erm..... not self build I dont think.... I'd rather let someone with skills do it. I could give it a go, but I'd be panicking that it wasnt done right all the time.

I'm trying to find cash at the moment... thinking about either talking to Stu or Rotary Revs... will make up my mind nearer the time.

The car is close to mint now... apart from the engine.
 
Erm..... not self build I dont think.... I'd rather let someone with skills do it. I could give it a go, but I'd be panicking that it wasnt done right all the time.

I'm trying to find cash at the moment... thinking about either talking to Stu or Rotary Revs... will make up my mind nearer the time.

The car is close to mint now... apart from the engine.
it certainly looks like no expense spared. summer 2020 will be awesome...
 
I would suggest Stu rather than Revs. Unless you want a higher probability of more issues.
 
LOL no, wouldn't normally choose more issues :)

Can Stu offer a one stop shop for most things?
I wasnt even in the country when he did mine, just shipped the car to him. Picked it up ran in and mapped upon my return 👍.

A one stop shop he certainly is.
 
I wasnt even in the country when he did mine, just shipped the car to him. Picked it up ran in and mapped upon my return 👍.

A one stop shop he certainly is.
He ran it in and mapped it too? thats what I will be wanting... Am I assuming between 4-5k for this?
 
Depends on damage/condition of parts and the spec you want to rebuild it to.
Hopfully its just a corner seal gone and that its not done any damage. I think its been street ported already, so wouldnt need that.

would love my turbos rebuilding and the rotors lightened and balance, but i suspect the latter would be expensive.
 
Not as bad as you would think. Mine is in the latter stages of getting half bridge ported, lightened, balanced, clearanced, goopy seals, studded and dowelled. All my components are reusable though apart from seals obviously due to such low mileage(5km new crate engine) and extremely lucky area of damage from the chipped corner seal.

Its impossible to say for sure without opening it. But if your housing and rotor are ok its not as much as you would expect.
 
Hopfully its just a corner seal gone and that its not done any damage. I think its been street ported already, so wouldnt need that.

would love my turbos rebuilding and the rotors lightened and balance, but i suspect the latter would be expensive.

I wouldn't bother lightening and balancing for a twin turbo'd car. You usually only do that if you plan to rev beyond 8,500 RPM consistently and for a racing engine that will live it's life in the high RPMs.
 
I wouldn't bother lightening and balancing for a twin turbo'd car. You usually only do that if you plan to rev beyond 8,500 RPM consistently and for a racing engine that will live it's life in the high RPMs.
Redline always every gear change.... thats normal isnt it? lol

Has anyone ever written up like the top 20 tips to owning and using a rotary?

for example, I didnt know this and this is why my seal went most likley, BUT 1 - If you have been sat in traffic and the engine is nice and really hot, DONT smash it away instantly - drive off and get some cool air around the engine - THEN smash it around

that a good one?? :)
 
That's a can of worms. Given how close to stock your car is like mine it's a simple case of:

1. Replace worn out items
2. Change oil every 2,000-3,000 miles
3. Change plugs every 3,000-5,000 miles
4. If you are on a Power FC make sure you have a good tune with optimal temp correction setup so you can floor it when it's hot (you will just have less power)
5. Fill up with at least 97 octane.

That's kind of it. I have followed that plus done a few upgrades and my car has been very reliable even when I let it heatsoak after switching it off to 115 C with the bonnet closed.

It's the replacing worn items that is expensive as there is always something every year that needs replacing.
 
No Pre Mixing?

I do have Power FC.... and I think its been mapped to idle a little higher too Not sure.

Shell V Power always

I only will do about 2k mlies a year so thats ok. Can do those jobs myself.

What sort of things have you had to replace?
 
I premix sometimes but not always and my compression is solid. See my build thread post on it:


With fuel I fill up with a combo of Tesco 99, Shell V Power, BP 97 and Esso 97. Car doesn't seem to care which although I do get better fuel economy with V Power.

Replaced items include things like fuel filter, pillowballs, suspension bushings, tie rods, shocks/springs (just decided to upgrade to coilovers), discs, pads, brake lines, air filter, clutch, an o-ring or two, etc.

Yes, your car has a PFC and was mapped by Super 7. I would highly recommend getting it remapped by @Stu Rotortorque and Jaydee rather than try to run the car on the Super 7 map again as I'm sure that it why it blew. There was no reason for your car to blow with basically stock power and boost levels unless the custom tune was not very good.
 
Yeah, the booting it with a heatsoaked engine bay is a definitely no, on a PFC at least. Maybe one of the fancy modern ECUs can adjust enough fuel to handle that extra hot air.
 
Thanks Roy.... Stu will be getting a shout from me at some point thats for sure.

That list of things to replace isnt unusual for any car really is it, had to do some of those on the Honda too. I can do all those myself so thats no bother.

The engine is the issue :(
 
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