Varying Primary Boost / Secondary Boost.

[staggy]

Yes the WG arm is still attached and have confirmed KOKO as well. Tearing ones hair out!

 

[Spendyrx]

K20 time

 

[staggy]

I'll get there in the end. I do want to explore where I can get the twins too but most likely end up with a single turbo at some stage.

 

[Spendyrx]

Yeah it takes a little effort to get them right. Took me about 3 years lol. Most of my trouble was the early coupler. Once I got a 99 crossover pipe it was great!

 

[Spendyrx]

Do you have a list of what to check on twins?

 

[JamieIreland]

Copy & Paste from http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html

Primary Turbocharger Leaks

In order for the Primary Turbocharger to operate and generate more than 8 psi check the items indicated on the Primary Turbocharger Leak Diagram. The items below are on the diagram and are listed in most likely to fail order:

1. Y-Pipe connector hose, (coupling):
   This is a very common failure part. This short hose, (coupling) will split and vent boosted air in copious amounts. The trick with this one is that when just looking at the part on the car it will look just fine. You need to remove the 90 degree plastic duct on top and examine the rubber coupling by gently stretching it to see if there are any splits. Typically costs about U$47 at dealer.
   
   
2. Check ~1" dia hoses for leakage:
   If you can rotate these hoses while attached, then the clamps are too loose. Get properly sized screw-clamps if the stock ones are not up to the job. New hoses will also help, but usually tightening the hose clamps is enough. A sign that there is air leakage is the presence of oily dirt on the aluminum casting around the hoses. New hose-clamps will set you back about U$10 maximum for good ones.
   
   
3. Primary Turbo Inlet:
   Typically collapses under high volume air through air cleaner into Primary Turbocharger. When the engine is cold the rubber is less prone to collapsing. Typical symptoms are having boost at lower RPMs and then a loss of boost at higher RPMs, this is agravated when engine warms-up softening the rubber allowing for easier and more complete colaspe of the hose. Typically costs about U$90 at dealer.
   
   
4. To/From Intercooler:
   Same symptoms as the Y-Pipe coupler. When under boost, the hose-clamps prevent the hose from expanding due to the air pressure inside the hose. Do not under-estimate the force of 10 psi or more on 3" diameter hoses, what looks OK with engine not tunning may not work under boost conditions.
   
   
5. Air Bypass Valve:
   Test for leakage and operation. At 14-22 kPa {100-170 mmHg, 3.9-6.7 inHg} of vacuum to the control port air will flow through the two larger ports. At 31.3 kPa {235 mmHg, 9.2 inHg} of vacuum to the control port the valve will be fully open. Note that the operating points of the Air Bypass Valve are different from the Charge Relief Valve. The Air Bypass Valve is essentially the factory blow-off valve. It isn't computer controlled, but simply operates by the vacuum within the Intake Extension Manifold, (pressure = closed, vacuum = open). You will hear the Air Bypass Valve vent boost when you let off the gas and get a vacuum in the Intake Extension Manifold. Typically costs about U$150 at dealer.
   
   
6. Charge Control Actuator:
   When closed, this prevents Primary boost from going into the Secondary Turbocharger. This valve seals the air passage the same way as the throttle butterfly valves. This remains closed until 4,500 RPM AND Secondary boost pressure is the same or more than Primary boost pressure.

 

[Jit]

In the FAQ section there is a diagram of the black box and where all the hoses go

 

[JamieIreland]

Did you make any more progress @staggy ? My Primary is only boosting at .5 now also, and 1bar after transition.

 

[staggy]

works been getting in the way but I am currently going through each line one by one. I did break a nipple on the pre control solenoid so that is under repair as well. Off today to go and get an inspection on the Evo for something to drive over xmas

 

[staggy]

Quick Update - Been through the car again and can confirm the following
- KOKO works.
- New Solenoid box fitted
- New Vacuum / Boost lines fitted
- Confirm Vacuum / pressure tanks work.
- Tested electrical parts etc
- Confirmed nipple / pill is still located in turbo housing

I took the car for a good drive this morning and secondary boost is reading approx .8 bar and going well in all gears but a problem remains and I can only get .5 bar with the primary turbo.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Spendyrx]

One thing back on koko (its been a while) but have you checked that the door is closing fully when transitioning. Sorry to create more work but maybe be best to take off the y pipe and making sure that door is fully closed and maybe check your o ring between the pipes! Just a thought!

 

[Mid Night FD]

The 0-ring is a good shout, when i pulled my y-pipe apart it had disintergrated inside and just came out in pieces. Also have to checked bov is sealing if it has one?

 

[jdmr_neil]

Primary turbo is toast

 

[rob fd]

Put a single turbo on it the twins are shite anyway.

 

[staggy]

Pleased to say it is now all fixed. It is looking like it was a combination of issues that where the cause, along with the initial stolen PFC & blow off valve.
- Replaced Soldnoid control box with new item due to bad relay
- Replaced all old / brittle / cracked lines
- Installed old removed Evo Blow off valve to replace stolen item
- Renewed O'ring in Y pipe/
- Lubed and reset charge control arm / wastegate arm.

Had a short road test and it all works as advised but is boost spiking to approx 1 bar on stock ECU so new Power FC and tune for it now.

 

[Spendyrx]

Good to hear man