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Ellz’s LsFd build

Not sure what your clutch circuit looks like, but the T56/TR6060 builds are notoriously tricky to bleed. I bought a cheap ebay vacuum bleeder specifically for the job. Took no time at all to get it working. Tried to finish off by just pumping the pedal and it stopped working. Vacuum bled it again when I increased MC dia and worked fine. I fitted a remote bleeder line, which comes up to the reservoir area. Virtually no access once the exhaust is fitted otherwise.

I have a vacuum bleeder so will give that a bash when the new master cylinders fitted

The Mazda mc is 1mm smaller on the piston od so still not 100% if it will work but time will tell
 
From memory I started with a 9.375mm (0.75") bore and it worked, but the pedal had to sit higher than the brake pedal to get the stroke. Swapped to a 10.9mm (7/8") bore and the clutch rests level with the brake pedal. Depends how you've mounted the MC and how much stroke you get out of it. I've got a short body AP mounted entirely within the pedal bracket (no hole in bulkhead).

Good job with all the fabrication BTW.
 
Put a battery on to test if everything still works
Luckily minus the radio it all works :)
Put an oil filter on too very exiting

Also put a new clutch master on still needs bleeding but I have a pedal of some sort

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Yes man! first time on the forum for months. Ace build!
 
Haven’t done much recently spent last week at Nürburgring and lemans 24H which was great
Still hungover somehow

Anyway a box of bits turned up from torques for the fuel lines so made a start on that tonight also I bought a battery so will have a go at making a nice holder for it tomorrow

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Got the fuel lines sorted this eve
Managed to drill the original clips under the floor pan to accept the -6an line so it’s safe under the original plastic cover
Fuel filters off a mk5 r32 golf and cost a fraction of the go part

I’ve been waiting 2 weeks now for the bends for my manifolds so hopefully they arrive tomorrow and I can make a start on those

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Pulled my finger out my arse today and got some bits done, wired in a fuel pump relay and sorted a couple of other wiring bits

Ecu has come back from being de-immobilised, had a couple of bits changed too so it’s now a manual ecu with some sensors deleted and error codes deleted

Should be able to start her up next week

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Did you weight the car before and after the swap?

What sorta power will it run?
I bought the car as a rolling shell so no weights but shouldn’t be too much more than stock hopefully

And 360ish for the moment till it’s all proven and I can get a different cam
 
Found some headers on Facebook pretty cheap so bought them, they’re for a Ls fd3s and ceramic coted so saved me a lot of headache making them from scratch but o have the bits still to make some stainless ones down the line perhaps

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