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Hey and not yet! Have not got around to that yet.
Yh heard really good things about the AO52, like you say a set of them is insane!
Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build
- Thread starter Copyninja
- Start date
Yh heard really good things about the AO52, like you say a set of them is insane!
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- Feb 18, 2018
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Things are getting warmer and brighter so I went out hoping the Cup 2s would switch on and hook up before trying a different tyre.
As suspected, they are hooking up in the 19-25*C ambient temps and finally doing what they were made to do. Phew! I really didnt want to swap tyres unless these were useless warm conditions.
The below run was with the Turblown UIM (all else being the same) on a really safe and conservative tune up and I ran back to back PB's right off the bat. 5.54 and a 5.50. Previous PB being a 5.58. So we are headed in the right direction. I appreciate its not a massive jump in performance but a small increase nonetheless with a granny shift that would previously put in the 5.7s range, so there is some progress and I no longer need a perfect shift to maintain mid 5s. However, it would help if I pulled my finger out and managed a perfect shift to help get me into low 5s.
Enjoy the PB Run Below
Average boost around 28pi. Boost keeping tapering off top end to 26-27psi...Might have to increase WG duty cycle and see if boost goes back up. Currently around 75%.
13B Streetport G35 1050 28psi Stock Box with a granny shift.
G42 1200C 13B Bridgeport 32psi Dog Box, good clutchless shift.
Holset 19psi 70/80 13b Semi PP no shift 3rd gear held to 10krpm relentless acceleration
3 FDs with 3 completely different setups. All running pump fuel (99 Ron) as the base fuel with WMI.
I think this will come as no surprise the Streeport loses the battle of power and acceleration over the 100-200.
However, something very interesting caught my eye...the 100-150 battle is insanely close between the 3 cars, infact way closer than I thought possible. However, the streetport loses big after the Manual shift from 3rd to 4th.
The biggest eye-opener wasn't turbo size or peak horsepower (they matter ofcourse) it was gear changes. The Semi PP loses no time because it stays in one gear. The G42 dog-box shift costs roughly 0.2s, while my stock gearbox appears to cost around 0.4-0.6s. Looking purely at acceleration rate. While the car behaves much closer to a 5.0-5.1s car looking at the 100-150 times the reality remains the manual shift has to be completed which means the real world performance remains at the 5.50s level.
The current 5.50s PB was achieved with conservative timing, rich lambda at high rpm with boost tapering to 26psi, no flat-shift, no ethanol, and a fresh manifold setup that's still being dialled in. The Turblown UIM has already shown measurable gains, and the data suggests there is still more available from boost, timing, lambda optimisation, flat-shift and eventually E35 as the base fuel.
For a stock-box street-ported FD the latest results suggest there's still a little bit left in the setup. I'll keep testing as the data suggests there more work to be done before moving onto the G40 or another bigger turbo which will help the streetport take full advantage of the Turblown UIM.
As suspected, they are hooking up in the 19-25*C ambient temps and finally doing what they were made to do. Phew! I really didnt want to swap tyres unless these were useless warm conditions.
The below run was with the Turblown UIM (all else being the same) on a really safe and conservative tune up and I ran back to back PB's right off the bat. 5.54 and a 5.50. Previous PB being a 5.58. So we are headed in the right direction. I appreciate its not a massive jump in performance but a small increase nonetheless with a granny shift that would previously put in the 5.7s range, so there is some progress and I no longer need a perfect shift to maintain mid 5s. However, it would help if I pulled my finger out and managed a perfect shift to help get me into low 5s.
Enjoy the PB Run Below
Average boost around 28pi. Boost keeping tapering off top end to 26-27psi...Might have to increase WG duty cycle and see if boost goes back up. Currently around 75%.
13B Streetport G35 1050 28psi Stock Box with a granny shift.
G42 1200C 13B Bridgeport 32psi Dog Box, good clutchless shift.
Holset 19psi 70/80 13b Semi PP no shift 3rd gear held to 10krpm relentless acceleration
3 FDs with 3 completely different setups. All running pump fuel (99 Ron) as the base fuel with WMI.
I think this will come as no surprise the Streeport loses the battle of power and acceleration over the 100-200.
However, something very interesting caught my eye...the 100-150 battle is insanely close between the 3 cars, infact way closer than I thought possible. However, the streetport loses big after the Manual shift from 3rd to 4th.
The biggest eye-opener wasn't turbo size or peak horsepower (they matter ofcourse) it was gear changes. The Semi PP loses no time because it stays in one gear. The G42 dog-box shift costs roughly 0.2s, while my stock gearbox appears to cost around 0.4-0.6s. Looking purely at acceleration rate. While the car behaves much closer to a 5.0-5.1s car looking at the 100-150 times the reality remains the manual shift has to be completed which means the real world performance remains at the 5.50s level.
The current 5.50s PB was achieved with conservative timing, rich lambda at high rpm with boost tapering to 26psi, no flat-shift, no ethanol, and a fresh manifold setup that's still being dialled in. The Turblown UIM has already shown measurable gains, and the data suggests there is still more available from boost, timing, lambda optimisation, flat-shift and eventually E35 as the base fuel.
For a stock-box street-ported FD the latest results suggest there's still a little bit left in the setup. I'll keep testing as the data suggests there more work to be done before moving onto the G40 or another bigger turbo which will help the streetport take full advantage of the Turblown UIM.
Last edited:
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For a 620 hp 13b Street Port on pump fuel, a stock gearbox, a manual gear change, and a G35-1050, a 5.50-second 100-200 km/h is a seriously strong result. It's also worth remembering what these numbers mean in the real world.
A 5.5-second 100-200 car is genuinely supercar-fast territory, capable of matching or beating some very serious machinery in a roll race despite relying on a traditional H-pattern gearbox.
Look at some of the absolute weapons on this list tested on draggy by Autotop NL!!
As for the G35 journey, I feel like I'm getting close to the ceiling and the 3rd gear 100-150 acceleration proves it as there's hardly anything between cars with 110-150+hp. That is remarkable!
There are still a few tuning tweaks left to explore and the final few tenths are always the hardest to find, but that's what makes chasing them so addictive. It separates the Men from the boys and the Wolves from the sheep!
Watch this space... and pray for me.
A 5.5-second 100-200 car is genuinely supercar-fast territory, capable of matching or beating some very serious machinery in a roll race despite relying on a traditional H-pattern gearbox.
Look at some of the absolute weapons on this list tested on draggy by Autotop NL!!
As for the G35 journey, I feel like I'm getting close to the ceiling and the 3rd gear 100-150 acceleration proves it as there's hardly anything between cars with 110-150+hp. That is remarkable!
There are still a few tuning tweaks left to explore and the final few tenths are always the hardest to find, but that's what makes chasing them so addictive. It separates the Men from the boys and the Wolves from the sheep!
Watch this space... and pray for me.
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- Feb 18, 2018
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- 674
Quick update for everyone following the build!
Progress took a bit of a back seat lately while I was out enjoying the sun with the family but let's be honest, trying to work on the FD has been brutal lately. The weather went from cold and miserable to "insanely hot," like someone's cracked open the gates of hell. It's been way too hot for any serious PB runs, and attempting them was pretty much pointless since I knew I had a vacuum leak after installing the new UIM.
Luckily, a mate brought his smoke tester over last week and we got to work. Sure enough, it sniffed out two separate leaks: one at the new IACV blanking plate, and the second right at the Throttle Body gasket. Let's just say both were the original paper type gaskets and had definitely seen better days. The IACV one was completely perished and in terrible condition (sadly forgot to grab a pic before throwing it out).
I was able to get the new metal type gaskets so these should seal better and last longer as they are meant to be reuseable.
After running the smoke tester again there were no more leaks. I'm so glad the new gaksets fixed it but what I did not expect was the instant buttery smooth idle and night and day low RPM driveability. I thought the choppy low idle driveability would remain because of the UIM but kinda glad its not the case.
With the engine finally happy, it was time to get my AEM WMI system finally talking to the Link ECU. In hindsight, I should have done this ages ago, but better late than never!
Previously, I was just using a lean out failsafe strategy and praying to the rotary gods. Luckily, the AEM never skipped a beat, but relying on luck with a WMI system is a ticking time bomb. I sacrificed two digital Inputs on the Link to make them talk to each other, and it is a total game-changer.
The Spice: When the AEM system arms and sprays, the Link immediately activates my 4D Meth fuel and ignition maps.
The Shield: If the system detects a fault (low fluid, clog, pump issue), the Link instantly stalls the engine with a hard 4k rpm limit. No delay, no hesitation just instant engine protection before things go boom.
This basic integration gives me massive peace of mind as I really like the AEM controller and decided against deleting it. It feels awesome to have it all integrated, and it’s one less thing to worry about when the boost hits.
I did some tests with the wmi integration and it went really well as expected. I did a low boost pull from 100-150km/h and it ran a 2.96 without a shift.
With wmi spraying and a granny shift the performance dropped off loads.
For 16psi wmi is really not needed but I will run a few more tests to see if I can continue to improve the 100-150km/h at 16psi.
In a few days i'll get a couple more runs in high boost to see if the 13b/G35 combo can do better as all leaks/issues are fixed and traction is also no longer an issue. It's now or never!
Progress took a bit of a back seat lately while I was out enjoying the sun with the family but let's be honest, trying to work on the FD has been brutal lately. The weather went from cold and miserable to "insanely hot," like someone's cracked open the gates of hell. It's been way too hot for any serious PB runs, and attempting them was pretty much pointless since I knew I had a vacuum leak after installing the new UIM.
Luckily, a mate brought his smoke tester over last week and we got to work. Sure enough, it sniffed out two separate leaks: one at the new IACV blanking plate, and the second right at the Throttle Body gasket. Let's just say both were the original paper type gaskets and had definitely seen better days. The IACV one was completely perished and in terrible condition (sadly forgot to grab a pic before throwing it out).
I was able to get the new metal type gaskets so these should seal better and last longer as they are meant to be reuseable.
After running the smoke tester again there were no more leaks. I'm so glad the new gaksets fixed it but what I did not expect was the instant buttery smooth idle and night and day low RPM driveability. I thought the choppy low idle driveability would remain because of the UIM but kinda glad its not the case.
With the engine finally happy, it was time to get my AEM WMI system finally talking to the Link ECU. In hindsight, I should have done this ages ago, but better late than never!
Previously, I was just using a lean out failsafe strategy and praying to the rotary gods. Luckily, the AEM never skipped a beat, but relying on luck with a WMI system is a ticking time bomb. I sacrificed two digital Inputs on the Link to make them talk to each other, and it is a total game-changer.
The Spice: When the AEM system arms and sprays, the Link immediately activates my 4D Meth fuel and ignition maps.
The Shield: If the system detects a fault (low fluid, clog, pump issue), the Link instantly stalls the engine with a hard 4k rpm limit. No delay, no hesitation just instant engine protection before things go boom.
This basic integration gives me massive peace of mind as I really like the AEM controller and decided against deleting it. It feels awesome to have it all integrated, and it’s one less thing to worry about when the boost hits.
I did some tests with the wmi integration and it went really well as expected. I did a low boost pull from 100-150km/h and it ran a 2.96 without a shift.
With wmi spraying and a granny shift the performance dropped off loads.
For 16psi wmi is really not needed but I will run a few more tests to see if I can continue to improve the 100-150km/h at 16psi.
In a few days i'll get a couple more runs in high boost to see if the 13b/G35 combo can do better as all leaks/issues are fixed and traction is also no longer an issue. It's now or never!
Last edited:
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- Feb 18, 2018
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Took the car out for a long summer cruise crawling through traffic and everything and it didn't miss a single beat!
Since I didn't pop the hood after parking, heat soak was real as IATs were kissing 60*C after sitting for 30 minutes. But once I got moving again, a couple of miles of airflow brought those temps right back down to a cool 30* ambient.
After that I sent it through multiple 16 psi pulls and the car was absolute perfection, just begging for more. Like an M car, you simply cannot drive these things like a granny as it just eggs you on!! boost is insanely addictive. Brill fun going flat out in 1st and 2nd for a change....addictive AF!
Spent the evening deep cleaning the interior. Years of track abuse meant that even though it was spotless, it still smelled like a drag strip. A cocktail of oil, fuel, burnt rubber, and cooked brake pads baked into the seats and carpet. It desperately needs a full interior overhaul and desanitisation detail with seats, carpets, and dash out but I wasn't about to drop £100/1000s on that right now. Instead, I grabbed a £5 can of Turtle Wax Odor-X from Halfords on a gamble followed the instructions and the cabin legit smells like a brand new car now. No idea how long the magic will last, but for a fiver, it's a huge win. There's nothing quite like stepping into a spotless, fresh smelling interior after years of track stink!
I really love the 265/295 setup on the stock body lines, it's like a match made in heaven!
The stance (imo) is just right, no poke, the wheels and tyres sit nearly flush with the fenders and completely daily driver friendly. Fit and forget kind deal!
Not sure this photo even does it justice but the 295s look right at home on the rear. They are meaty, aggressive, and give the car serious presence plus you get all the actual functional grip to match the power level. Perfect setup!
The weather has been incredible lately, so I couldn't resist taking her out to some countryside and mountain roads as the Cup 2s are hooking up properly in this heat and doing flat out 1st through 3rd gear pulls at 16psi is addictive and ridiculous fun.
Since I didn't pop the hood after parking, heat soak was real as IATs were kissing 60*C after sitting for 30 minutes. But once I got moving again, a couple of miles of airflow brought those temps right back down to a cool 30* ambient.
After that I sent it through multiple 16 psi pulls and the car was absolute perfection, just begging for more. Like an M car, you simply cannot drive these things like a granny as it just eggs you on!! boost is insanely addictive. Brill fun going flat out in 1st and 2nd for a change....addictive AF!
Spent the evening deep cleaning the interior. Years of track abuse meant that even though it was spotless, it still smelled like a drag strip. A cocktail of oil, fuel, burnt rubber, and cooked brake pads baked into the seats and carpet. It desperately needs a full interior overhaul and desanitisation detail with seats, carpets, and dash out but I wasn't about to drop £100/1000s on that right now. Instead, I grabbed a £5 can of Turtle Wax Odor-X from Halfords on a gamble followed the instructions and the cabin legit smells like a brand new car now. No idea how long the magic will last, but for a fiver, it's a huge win. There's nothing quite like stepping into a spotless, fresh smelling interior after years of track stink!
I really love the 265/295 setup on the stock body lines, it's like a match made in heaven!
The stance (imo) is just right, no poke, the wheels and tyres sit nearly flush with the fenders and completely daily driver friendly. Fit and forget kind deal!
Not sure this photo even does it justice but the 295s look right at home on the rear. They are meaty, aggressive, and give the car serious presence plus you get all the actual functional grip to match the power level. Perfect setup!
The weather has been incredible lately, so I couldn't resist taking her out to some countryside and mountain roads as the Cup 2s are hooking up properly in this heat and doing flat out 1st through 3rd gear pulls at 16psi is addictive and ridiculous fun.
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- Feb 18, 2018
- Messages
- 674
I tried doing some final high boost test runs a few days ago...but it seems my AEM WMI system is no longer wanting to play ball. Twice the WMI Failsafe kicked in to save the engine and one time it didnt kick in but also didnt inject any WMI so the Lean out protection kicked in to save the engine. Scary!
For the time being I've given up testing high boost until I resolve this issue or revamp the entire wmi system so its more reliable. I have to admit if it wasnt for modern ECU's my engine would be cooked!
Low boost works fine but annoying about high boost...the other option is to run E35 and full send on the G35/13b Streetport combo...I dont know if it will get any faster but worth a shot.
In any event I traced the AEM WMI failure to this culprit. The connector pins after years of vibrations are starting to fail. I've ordered a replacement part so should fingers crossed be back to the final few high boost runs soon before moving onto the G40 or something a touch bigger and perhaps even test a specific pulsar tubby. Lets see.
To fix the WMI issue, I will replace the faulty 12-pin connector and terminals with fresh hardware while wiring in an external fused relay to the AEM pump so the controller no longer carries the pump's heavy electrical load. I hope this works...time will tell. If it doesnt the other option i'm thinking about is to ditch the AEM controller entirely and run a fast-acting solenoid right before the nozzle controlled directly by the Link G4X via a solid-state relay, keep the pump primed at constant pressure, and wire an inline pressure sensor so the ECU can instantly cut boost if line pressure drops. I think this is the better longer term play specially for track use.
Be good to know what you guys are using for a reliable fit and forget wmi system that is 100% reliable for street and sustained track abuse?
For the time being I've given up testing high boost until I resolve this issue or revamp the entire wmi system so its more reliable. I have to admit if it wasnt for modern ECU's my engine would be cooked!
Low boost works fine but annoying about high boost...the other option is to run E35 and full send on the G35/13b Streetport combo...I dont know if it will get any faster but worth a shot.
In any event I traced the AEM WMI failure to this culprit. The connector pins after years of vibrations are starting to fail. I've ordered a replacement part so should fingers crossed be back to the final few high boost runs soon before moving onto the G40 or something a touch bigger and perhaps even test a specific pulsar tubby. Lets see.
To fix the WMI issue, I will replace the faulty 12-pin connector and terminals with fresh hardware while wiring in an external fused relay to the AEM pump so the controller no longer carries the pump's heavy electrical load. I hope this works...time will tell. If it doesnt the other option i'm thinking about is to ditch the AEM controller entirely and run a fast-acting solenoid right before the nozzle controlled directly by the Link G4X via a solid-state relay, keep the pump primed at constant pressure, and wire an inline pressure sensor so the ECU can instantly cut boost if line pressure drops. I think this is the better longer term play specially for track use.
Be good to know what you guys are using for a reliable fit and forget wmi system that is 100% reliable for street and sustained track abuse?
Shakeywakey
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2019
- Messages
- 58
Good read this. Good results on the g35 to! I’m going to downsize my turbo to a G35 1050 like yours as my 40 is too big for my needs. What mani setup are you using with your 35?
