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Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build

Yes an oem fuel filter. It would be fine until a bar then just drop off, the element inside had dislodged and was packing down as the flow increased.

That weird oscillation is going to be something related imo, I wouldn't think it's fuel cavitation because it clears but it could be something in the filters.
 
Yes an oem fuel filter. It would be fine until a bar then just drop off, the element inside had dislodged and was packing down as the flow increased.

That weird oscillation is going to be something related imo, I wouldn't think it's fuel cavitation because it clears but it could be something in the filters.
I'm not on oem fuel filter so def not going to be my issue.

Seems likely the hardlines and the oem damper on the oem primary line is likely not adequate.
 
I mean filters in general can block up or fail, not specifically an oem only problem.

I had no issues flowing a full 525 walbro on the oem hardlines with AN 6 to the rails, never ran an oem damper as theyre known to fail and burn the car down.
 
Completely forgot about this! I bought this back in September 2023 and just stumbled upon it in storage. It was time to dig it out and finally get it loaded in the car.
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The Old Faithful Link G4+ (EPIC ECU) boxed up in its new oem case ready to be shipped out to its new owner. It's an epic modern ECU that got me knocking on the door of 5-second 100-200 times. It would push even harder if my fuel system wasn't holding it back.

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Alright, all you garage queens and wiring wizards with a touch of the OCD, look away! I'm still rocking the stock ECU harness on this bad boy with all the battle scars. It's 32 years old, a tangled mess of wires held together by hope and zip ties, but damn it gets the job done. This thing pulled me into the 5-second club for the 100-200 and fires up every time I grab the keys and unleash the fury of the FD. Don't need fancy, new-age stuff when the old relic does the trick!

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Hold my beer! Just shoved a brand new Link G4X ECU into the crusty old case of my 32-year-old OEM ECU. It may look like a junkyard find, but inside it's rocking the latest tech. Talk about sleeper engine management, nothing to see here Mr Officer, its just a stock ECU.

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I got most of the sensors dialed in nice and easy. But for the love of all things boost, the oil and fuel pressure sensors were being total gremlins. Calibrated them a million times, checked every setting, but no dice. Decided to take a closer look, and wouldn't you know it, the culprit showed its face right away. Turns out a signal wire must have gotten pinched or something during the swap, because it popped right out of its crimp. At least its a simple fix.

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Here's the battle plan to crank up to 2bar ~29psi on pump fuel and wmi.
  1. Gotta fix that busted G4X expansion loom. Contacted a local motorsport wiring shop and hoping they can whip up a new one. No dodgy wires holding me back this time and hopefully clean up the data from the sensors.
  2. Order a radium 4-port secondary fuel rail to throw in 2 additional 1500cc injectors. Should slash my injector duty cycle from a scary 95% down to a much safer 70%, giving me the headroom I need.
  3. Ditching the tired fuel pump wiring - it's time for a modern upgrade. Hoping the local motorsport wiring shop can fit me in sooner rather than later.
  4. Once everything's dialed in, time to crank it up to 2 bar and see how it blasts through the 100-200. That's the real test!
But that's not all folks, got two more mods waiting in the wings to see if 2 bar can do even better. Stay tuned!
 
The final boss mods are in (if you know, you know). Soon it will be time to see if the below mods can do better than the stock upper intake manifold and the old-school HKS cast iron manifold? Are they all hype (dyno queens) and no bark? or all the hype with the 100-200 to back it up? I dont know but will find out... if all goes well. Pray for me!
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Lovelllllly! I was wanting one of those intakes, but decided to wait until going semi PP and get the matching lower! 100% going to pick up some power. Am I right in thinking your exhaust housing isn't a t4 divided? If so that would also be 100% worth doing!! Cant wait to see the results.
 
Lovelllllly! I was wanting one of those intakes, but decided to wait until going semi PP and get the matching lower! 100% going to pick up some power. Am I right in thinking your exhaust housing isn't a t4 divided? If so that would also be 100% worth doing!! Cant wait to see the results.
Haha semi pp is the 13b dream. I'll deffo be skipping the bridgeport for a semi pp.

Yup the turbo is a vband 1.21ar.
 
Progress on the G4X!

Today, I finally had a chance to test the flat shift logic with the stock FD gearbox and also start the process of retuning the new ECU.

3rd - WOT around 3700rpm
Boost - 1.2psi

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Shifted up around 4500rpm - still at WOT!! :eek:.... A proper shit my pants moment...hoping the logic works as it should...if not gearbox RIP!
Boost approx 11psi
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Still WOT in 4th - the logic worked as it should and gearbox / engine still in one piece.
Boost at approx 4psi. (Normally would be in vacuum -10psi)
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Test results are promising!
Previously, during gear changes, boost pressure would drop significantly into vacuum (-10psi) before ramping back up again. This time, however, the boost pressure remained positive throughout the shift. While shift times haven't improved (still around 400ms or 0.4s), the boost response can really be felt behind the wheel.

I'll do a 100-200 to compare the traditional manual shift to the new flat shift at 15psi to start with. Since the turbo remains in boost during the flat shift, I expect it to deliver more power and torque under the curve, potentially leading to faster 100-200 time.

Flat Shift Feels Great!
For those new to the concept, see below a regular upshift involves lifting off the throttle, which causes the boost pressure to drop into vacuum before ramping back up again. The flat shift function eliminates this boost drop, keeping the engine "on boost" during the shift, making the car feel more responsive and powerful. This is a common Motorsport feature that's surprisingly effective even with the stock synchro transmission.
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The build continues with a focus for faster and more reliable acceleration. The goal is to consistently accelerate from 100-200 km/h and 200-250km/h in the mid 4s range or there abouts because high 5s range was the trend 2 months ago :ROFLMAO: !!

Looking at my I data dont think a G40/G42 will cut it. So I'm considering selling the beautiful SAS manifold. It was built by Steve for a larger BW S366 turbo frame and my initial plan was to run a G40. Thinking I may need a G45 turbo, which should do well with the Turblown UIM. Hoping the mani can fit the larger frame G45 turbo but not holding my breath.

Before that, I want to max out the G35 with the new fuel system to 32psi. I'm expecting it to hit its limit on a street port and will be interesting to see how it does and if acceleration improves.

Parts are coming together:
  • 2x Turbosmart 14psi wastegates
  • Turbosmart BOV
  • Turbosmart FPR8 fuel pressure regulator

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Nothing wrong with my current AEM FPR but as my goals have changed I decided to go with the FPR8.
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To address the fueling I decided to go with radium primary and 4 port secondary rails. The package however arrived highly damaged, which did not fill me with confidence.
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The rails look fine from the outside but there are severe manufacturing defects which pose a serious fire risk.
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Just one end of the primary port as pictured below...the an8 orb wont seal and the tapering is shredded. This is similar for other ends of the rails and the secondary fuel rail on the inside has very sharp edges. Radium UK advised they would send a replacement, which is yet to arrive.
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Got a speeding fuel filter with a 10 micron stainless element which supports all the flow, its good for 1500hp+.
Decided to get 4x Flow matched 2200cc bosch injectors for all the fuel.
I'll resuse my ASNU 2x1500cc as primaries which takes care of the fueling requirements.
2x Walbro 450 to start with and see how it goes.
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To help with traction I decided to go with the ATS carbon 1.5 way LSD which i'm told by ATS and Tim is very oem like in its function with no additional NVH or chattering issues.
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Tim from RX motors sourced me an auto 3.9 final drive with a case to eek out even more mph at the top of 4th.
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Draggy GPS confirms I hit 130mph or 210km/h in 4th gear at 7900rpm. Gear ratio calculations suggest I need 9k rpm for 150mph in the same gear with my current 4.44 final drive.

The idea of switching to a 3.9 final drive is to let me hit 150mph at a more suitable 8000rpm. I'll experiment with different final drives to optimize 100-200km/h and 200-250km/h times. Watch this space.
 
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Wow, is the engine dowelled, are you running an updated baffle plate ? What kind of BHP are aiming for ?
 
Wow, is the engine dowelled, are you running an updated baffle plate ? What kind of BHP are aiming for ?
Yes and no. Not aiming for an HP figure as much as aiming for a mid 4s 100-200km/h and 200-250km/h and see how it goes.
 
Wont you need some serious bhp / torque though to get there ?

Sounds like an awesome setup. Be really interested seeing just how laggy it will be on a street port.
 
Sorry, brain wasn't there ! I meant an upgraded sump with the thicker plate to support the engine !
 
Wont you need some serious bhp / torque though to get there ?

Sounds like an awesome setup. Be really interested seeing just how laggy it will be on a street port.
Yes will need strong boost to get there with the streetport like 35-40psi at least.

Good shout suppose a good sump could help.
 
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