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Ellz’s LsFd build

Done the sump today, removed 50mm from the bottom and plated over with some 6mm Ali plate , lost 500ml capacity but still have the same capacity as the stock c6 sump so should be ok
Turned up a drain plug too

Sump should sit 110mm from the ground now which is nice

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Hey Paul I actually think this engines gonna fit (in a liverpudlian accent)
Nice work John 😉😛 how Ringo and george hanging these days 😂😂

Lovely bit of tig work though....tip of the hat for that and also saving 290 quid on a bolt 😂😎
 
Shit day trying to bleed the clutch
I can’t seem to get the air out of the master cylinder any tips?
 
Shit day trying to bleed the clutch
I can’t seem to get the air out of the master cylinder any tips?
Was it working before? Sounds to me like the seals in the master have gone! If you do replace them, buy the mx5 seals! Exact same kit but half the price of putting rx7 into a search engine!
 
Was it working before? Sounds to me like the seals in the master have gone! If you do replace them, buy the mx5 seals! Exact same kit but half the price of putting rx7 into a search engine!

Think you’re right bro been trying for an hour or so and there’s no pedal, car was outside for a few months open to the elements so probably that will remove it now
 
Have a look behind your clutch pedal! Sometimes you get leakage into the car! My seals were just knackered and went inside the master itself so was quite hard to put a finger on the problem! Once it was done, was bled in a few mins!
Also if I remember rightly, if you do it and then lose pedal a day or 2 later I think I read that if you keep the clutch in with a block of wood over night it should iron out any pedal proles! I never had that trouble though tbh.....it just worked from the word go! The write ups make it sound a worse job than it actually is!
 
Have a look behind your clutch pedal! Sometimes you get leakage into the car! My seals were just knackered and went inside the master itself so was quite hard to put a finger on the problem! Once it was done, was bled in a few mins!
Also if I remember rightly, if you do it and then lose pedal a day or 2 later I think I read that if you keep the clutch in with a block of wood over night it should iron out any pedal proles! I never had that trouble though tbh.....it just worked from the word go! The write ups make it sound a worse job than it actually is!

I took the master apart and the seals looked fine no tears but when I re assembled it it’s stuck at the bottom now

Think a new one is on the cards
Is it just the rebuild kits that suit or can I buy an mx5 master?
 
Managed to get the internals back out and cleaned them and put it back together with assembly lube and it simply won’t return so perhaps some pitting in the bore or rust so to be safe I’m just gonna switch it out

Bloody annoying
 
Managed to stop crying about my clutch master cylinder and spent the afternoon on the engine loom, all done now just 3 wires to splice into the Mazda loom and fans to be wired in

Hopefully sort my curling out this week

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Think @GAVBEY used a mk2.5 mx5 one on his k20 build
That may just be the servo he switched Andy, I could be wrong though! I know 100% the fc master fits as that use to be the cheaper option but everything is bloody expensive these days! I think a brand new master from mazda is around 100 quid!
 
Not sure what your clutch circuit looks like, but the T56/TR6060 builds are notoriously tricky to bleed. I bought a cheap ebay vacuum bleeder specifically for the job. Took no time at all to get it working. Tried to finish off by just pumping the pedal and it stopped working. Vacuum bled it again when I increased MC dia and worked fine. I fitted a remote bleeder line, which comes up to the reservoir area. Virtually no access once the exhaust is fitted otherwise.
 
Indo remember having trouble bleeding mine. IIRC I had to undo the bleeder and basically flush a load of fluid through, then bleed it normally.
 
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