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2002 Bathurst - Innocent Blue - initialDean Build

Unfortunately my car started and ran with a chipped seal. It looked very very similar to the compression seen here, low on two chuffs.

It idled fine, and drove ok only having an issue revving under load from 1.5-3k. Above 3k it was fine hence why i was still screaming around croft. It was the boost gauge needle bouncing a tiny bit on idle that concerned me enough to call it a day.
Yes I drove mine back from the Dyno day and under load it seemed to pull fine.... Just idles like shit.

Looks like this year will be spent tarting up the rest of the car
 
Unfortunately my car started and ran with a chipped seal. It looked very very similar to the compression seen here, low on two chuffs.

It idled fine, and drove ok only having an issue revving under load from 1.5-3k. Above 3k it was fine hence why i was still screaming around croft. It was the boost gauge needle bouncing a tiny bit on idle that concerned me enough to call it a day.

And what did you need in terms of new parts when you rebuilt it?
 
It had 30k on and low compression Roy so just went for the full rebuild. 1 housing and 1 rotor was scrap.
 
Nice to get home and go for a drive. I mean, turn the car around. #broken


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Well, she looks pretty in that very tidy garage. You need a front splitter though!
 
Sounds great but you'll wish you just had a street port

Becomes a full on track car!, wants to flood, idles like shit, eats fuel more than rotary normal. Sounds nice when it runs well but driving it would start to feel to much effort i expect.

I was happy with standard ports for my rebuild but in the end went for light exhaust porting. This helps breathing but nothing else
 
Becomes a full on track car!, wants to flood, idles like shit, eats fuel more than rotary normal. Sounds nice when it runs well but driving it would start to feel to much effort i expect.

I was happy with standard ports for my rebuild but in the end went for light exhaust porting. This helps breathing but nothing else
Ok 👌🏽 I think it might be streetported already anyway. Certainly appeared that way on the Dyno.
 
The thing is, that for a turbocharged rotary you don't really need a bridge. Sure, a bridge flows a bit better up top than a street port but the beauty of a turbocharged car is that all you need to do is add more boost or fine tune the size of your exhaust (assuming that was a restriction at your target power level).

On a naturally aspirated rotary a bridge, and quite honestly a peripheral port, make all the difference in the world, and opens up the opportunity to rev higher and extract that extra 20, 30 or 40 horsepower at peak RPM. The consequence of these ports is terrible drivability for a road car and if you thought your fuel consumption was bad now, cut it in half with one of these ports.

2 rotor bridge or peripheral ports sounds like shit anyway. it's only the 3 and 4 rotor bridges or peripheral ports that sounds nice.
 
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You're still wanting to keep the twins right? For your goals I'd just get a small street port, port match the lim, uim etc and reliability/efficiency mods like cleaning up the oil pump and coolant passages with a die grinder. That's what I did to my old FD and what I'll do to my current one when the time comes.
 
Do you really need to waste time matching the LIM, UIM and playing around with the oil and coolant passages though? Is that going to make a difference over the typical 60,000 miles a lightly breathed on FD achieves? And besides, how many of us are actually going to get 60,000 miles out of our car during our ownership?

I am 4 years in this month and about 13,000 miles on my car. As much as I love my car I doubt I'll have it for another 14.5 years to hit 60,000 miles under my ownership.
 
True.... I did 2000 miles in the S2000 over the last 2 years...

However, I do like to drive them hard... and I'm all for having reliability... so cleaning and porting everything is an interest to me.

Even if its all in the mind :)
 
Sure, why not? Most people are after all the performance and optimisation gains they can get when modifying a car like this, all the little bits add up. It'll flow better and is easy to diy yourself at home. The stock castings are quite a way out. The irons are pretty rough cast around the oil pump and that's also an easy diy fix that'll help with oil flow. I'll take any free mod like this to reduce wear or improve the longevity of a motor. It's always fun and rewarding knowing you just made something good better :cool:.

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If you plan time out for things like a rebuild it is prime opportunity to get things like port matching and other modifications that aren’t simply ‘bolt-on’. They can be fun as well if you enjoy doing it yourself. I know the redoing the coolant passages down the compression to exhaust side with ribbed surfaces does improve reliability from the thermal differences on the housings. Just a clean and smoothing of the iron runner passages can improve intake efficiency by up to 10% without touching any of the ports according to expert literature. I had mine out of action for best part of 18 months which allowed me to take stuff home and refurb/modify them as I wished whilst the block was being rebuilt. Since it has been put back together and given a decent tune mine runs cooler and the throttle response crisper than it was before. Had no significant porting done but I enjoy the outcome of a smoother and more responsive drive, and that is what I was looking for once I was able to drive it regularly again.
 
Improving water flow through the block is a great mod, I've done this to several engines before and you do see noticable improvements.
Port matching in my opinion (from non rotary builds) gives little performance improvement, not saying it's something I wouldn't do, but effort vs reward is quite low, the ports tend to be the least resrictive areas of the intake / exhaust. But that said matching them will reduce turbulence and if your chasing a few extra BHP it would be worth while, and certainly won't harm anything.
 
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