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Full strip down/restoration

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GAVBEY said:
So fucking cool man! Love restoration builds. Theres a fuck tone on migweb. Choosing colour is the hardest part lol
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Tell me about it. I've obsessed over that colour choice for months now. The trick is to choose something that won't look faddy / shite in a few years.
 
@Nas80 that bmw is absolutely awesome. I got offered one a few years ago but didn't have the funds at the time.

My XR2 is fully restored. I had mine done in 3 weeks by torques performance in south wales.

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tomCTR said:
That fez looks awesome!! 👍🏻

Up your game @Nas80 👍🏻👍🏻😂
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Lol I didn't realize we was in a competition. love looking at peoples restos. I appreciate the work cos I've done this a few times now. These restos cost so much cash it's rediculous, you end up replacing every grommit, screw, pipe and clip. so it's not a job you wanna do unless you really really like the car you are working on. And what ever you think it might cost. Usually it's double that .

This BMW I built some years ago. Got mag feature and like Dean, I totally redid it underneath too. You think no one will see it so what's the point then you at a show and you spot someone doing this.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AroTrkVwCclcjQHcH9ZCgzhA0Li_

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Yeah it’s not something I think i could do, would never have the time for it!

That bm is lovely mate, awesome work on that! 😎👍🏻
 
marco said:
When I decided to rewire mine I got a solid-state pdm and a flying loom. Saved a whole world of pain, and really glad I went that route.
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I bought a system from painless performance. Seems easy enough. You do have to run your own earths to everything but even then that's not too harsh. All the wires are labelled every few inches for what they do and it seems logical. It's just wiring up stalks, ventilation / ignition / dash that's to thinking about.

Original 45 year old loom. I was taking it out literally and it was falling apart in my hands.
 
deanflowers said:
My XR2 is fully restored. I had mine done in 3 weeks by torques performance in south wales.
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That's some work in 3 weeks. I guess they had it on a spit? which I know is not the technical term
 
snoopios said:
Awesome, thanks for the help so far guys.

I've done some research in the past and I've seen that acid dip can be problematic with the acid pooling/being stuck in areas of the chassis.
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Yeah, some people report it seeping out from the seams ruining paint jobs after it is all done.

In terms of chemicals with the paint strippers now being water based (pretty sure commercial companies can still get the good stuff) they are pretty crap now.

Using a DA/grinder etc isn't too bad but it Fucking makes a mess! You will won't want to do it in the same space as anything you something you don't want covered in paint dust. And the awkward areas that you can be a bit annoying. I'd recommend the 3m paint stripping discs strip it quick and gentle in the metal. It does take a long time doing it this way.

You also have sand(media) blasting, not gonna be a diy jobbie as tou need an industrial compressor to do it in anything like a sensible time. I'd also take it somewhere as again gonna be loads of crap flying around covering everything so need a good space to do it. And the dust might get stuck into nooks and crannies. As you've probably read in the pro and cons of it will depend on the skill of the operator and state of the car as into fthe results in terms of damage caused. It'll be the quickest though.

As for prices you'll be best to call around your areas but it would go something like acid dip -> blasting -> DA/Grinder(if you don't include your time)
 
JoeLanger said:
That's some work in 3 weeks. I guess they had it on a spit? which I know is not the technical term
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They actually did it on a 2 post lift with engine in place. The bay was pretty good to start with so i didnt get it done as i would have a colour issue with the body and it matching if did (long story but my car was painted too pink so i cant paint panels the correct colour that touch other panels without getting the whole car redone).

3 weeks start to finish as they only work on 1 car at a time and do their own zinc and blasting. A fiesta is faily simple though aswell
 
Nas80 said:
that'sa really nice job, used to have a MK1 fez.

The shop you took it to completely stripped and restored your car in it three weeks?! Damn that's fast work!
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Nas, they took the body kit off, did the underside and wheel arches to bare metal, then painted and rezinced everything and put it back together in 3 weeks. The bay wasn't painted and the motor didn't need to come out. Also the car didnt need any welding so that helped a lot

Ive been tempted to get my rx7 done next time

Dean
 
marco said:
Hp electronik. Thought about motec but this was better specced, and didn't have motec tax on it.
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How easy are PDMs to stick in? I have 0 experience with them and next to no knowledge of wiring.

I assume they come with some decent instructions?
 
Something for the automotive industry with instructions hahaha.

I've looked into a few and none of them are ticking the boxes for me.
 
snoopios said:
How easy are PDMs to stick in? I have 0 experience with them and next to no knowledge of wiring.

I assume they come with some decent instructions?
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er, not the easiest job, but an order of magnitude easier that wiring from scratch with fuses/relays etc. more time consuming than anything, and needs a bit of planning regarding what you want to run and where. I found on mine the number of switch inputs was a bit limiting but got round it- mixture of being pragmatic regarding what was needed on a seperate switch, and using ecu signals via canbus. (canbus is a bit of a head scratacher mind!) there were a bit of instructions on the manufacturer website, but it is assumed you sorta have a feel for what you are doing.
 
Kind of ressurecting this, but has anyone got an idea of the steps to take when fully stripping and restoring a car?

This is kind of what I have in mind of what you're "supposed" to do:

Step 1: Strip the car
Step 2: Repair any rust spots that need repairing
Step 3: Acid dip it to remove paint
Step 4: Powder coat the entire bare shell (stops it from rusting)
Step 5: Prime (ready to actually paint it)
Step 6: Paint it (give the car colour)
Step 7: Stick it back together again

Any hints / tips that might differ from this?
 
No.

Strip the car down, all bolts need to be bagged and labelled and put neatly In a bag taped to the corresponding part. Labelling the looms and inspecting them.

You then access the car for damage and rust.

You then get it acid dipped and then you then repair rust and send it back to the acid dip place to be redone and coated electrically charged paint primer.

You then send it straight over to the body shop. No delay and make the body shop sign a contract that if they are unable to meet a deadline they are fined a sum every week.

Inspect the car between stages noting any issues. Then a final inspection when taking back from the body shop noting any flaws.

Replace all perishable items and get all the drive train powder coated. Replace all rusty bolts or get them stripped and coated.

Reinstall everything back taking absolute care not to damage paint or part.

Don't forget anything you have in ya head about how much it costs add 20% on top. Be prepared to be ripped off by body shops.

Don't under estimate how long it will take cos it will take a long time.

Don't flipping scrimp or assume that it'll be fine. You are only mugging yourself
 
Nas80 said:
You then send it straight over to the body shop. No delay and make the body shop sign a contract that if they are unable to meet a deadline they are fined a sum every week.
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This ! - add in a section about quality of work to be reviews by a third party too

I’ve just had to recover my car before of issues with delays and crap work
 
I have had nothing but crap off body shops and think it's possibly the worst type of trade you can get involved with. Forget anything you seen on rogue traders body shops are absolute scum bags.

That's just my opinion tho
 
Nas80 said:
I have had nothing but crap off body shops and think it's possibly the worst type of trade you can get involved with. Forget anything you seen on rogue traders body shops are absolute scum bags.

That's just my opinion tho
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Agree with that - glad the law firm I use for work can deal with the fall out but for most they would be fucked

Get everything in writing and a clear contract before you engage and the third party review is critical
 

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