TGS dolphin exhasut.

[Charlie1]

2 mod rule for a PFC ?

Not entirely sure what you mean, but I think I can get away with the pipe and back without needing a pfc.

 

[jack.am]

Not entirely sure what you mean, but I think I can get away with the pipe and back without needing a pfc.

No. Don’t open up the exhaust on these without a remap, it will overboost and you’ll eventually be picking bits of apex seal out of it. The most you can get away with is filters and cat-back, once you decat you’ll have issues.

 

[Charlie1]

No. Don’t open up the exhaust on these without a remap, it will overboost and you’ll eventually be picking bits of apex seal out of it. The most you can get away with is filters and cat-back, once you decat you’ll have issues.

No that's thrown a spanner in the works. I was under the impression that if I changed just the downpipe(stock center), and new back box I should be ok. I steered away from the intake, as what I've read suggested a stock engine/ecu doesn't like sucking hot air from the engine bay.

 

[jeffohlen_90]

You won't see it as a spanner in the works if you were to foresee the potential consequences of introducing too much flow on the turbos by running a decat midpipe. The PFC is a common recommendation for your case as it is a plug in solution and allows you to tune the fuel map parameters and boost control to run a decat setup safely. The stock ECU is great for maintaining ideal drivability, provided you limit the modifications concerning air and exhaust flow. You could install a catback and modify the stock intake box so it draws in fresh air from the bumper opening and give it a K&N panel filter to increase efficiency without affecting the running of the car.

 

[Charlie1]

Cheers jeff, just to confirm it's only the down pipe and catback I'm changing the mid pipe is remaining stock. I have a panel filter in already, hence me hoping to get away with out a pfc.

 

[jack.am]

Stock ECU and boost control really can’t cope with the exhaust being opened up beyond a catback. You’ll get boost spikes and creep.

 

[JoeLanger]

You might be OK if it's just the downpipe and catback, keeping the catalytic converter.
Used to be called 2 mod rule, any more than 2 flow mods and you need ECU

However if I was you I'd maybe leave the downpipe as that's more involved to install also.
And then fit the downpipe with a PFC if you decide to do that. But then you need to factor in mapping too.
All of which is reversible.

 

[Charlie1]

Bugger I've ordered the bits now! I was really hoping to not have to buy one as I wanted to keep the old girl 99% stock, after a fair bit of research I thought these two I could get away with. My car has the standard boost gauge, (as a newbie) can I assume I'd see boost creep possibly not to much spikes if I keep am eye on it?

 

[jeffohlen_90]

If your stock down pipe isn't one which has a pre catalytic core bulging out post turbo, then changing it to a larger one will benefit turbo spool and perhaps reduce engine bay temperatures a little. But it won't be a substantial improvement over the OEM item, which already flows pretty well assuming there isn't a cat on that pipe. Like what Joel said, removing and replacing the down pipe in such a cramped area beside engine bay makes it quite a tedious job to do. I assume also the new down pipe you have purchased has the depressed concave on the flange connecting to the turbo manifold in order for it to clear the steering rack?

You'd definitely be fine with a cat back though. If you are keeping the catalytic converter, you may get spike more likely than creep. On stock boost if you are reading up to 12 psi pre and post transition then I would be concerned about creep.

 

[Charlie1]

Evening all. A quick up date. Got the tgs back on, which I think looks bloody great. Gives the old girl a nice burble. Also fitted a hks downpipe as well. The rest all stock. Put her on the rolling road today, and at 6500rpm found out VERY quickly that's it's limiter is still working! Gutted as at 285bhp at the flywheel and still climbing. We reckoned maybe 305/310bhp if she screamed on to 8k. Now time to start looking for what I believe is a green and red wire.
All in all, not too bloody bad for it's orginal engine and pretty much stock.

 

[JoeLanger]

So your hitting fuel cut on apexi at high to rpms?

 

[Charlie1]

So your hitting fuel cut on apexi at high to rpms?

No apexi, stock ecu. So I don't think so. It got to 115mph and hit the factory limiter that I thought had been removed. I think now the thing to do is to take some panels off, find the ecu, all look for a green and red wire. Snip. Isolate. And then back on the road.

 

[cib24]

Nice results. Unlikely to climb much higher than that on a stock port twins car so don't feel bad about making 285hp on the stock ECU, that's already about 10hp higher than standard without any tuning changes. Power on twins on a stock port tends to fall off very fast after 6500 RPM so even if you rev it out to 8k you won't see any real gains beyond where you are peaking now.

 

[Charlie1]

Nice results. Unlikely to climb much higher than that on a stock port twins car so don't feel bad about making 285hp on the stock ECU, that's already about 10hp higher than standard without any tuning changes. Power on twins on a stock port tends to fall off very fast after 6500 RPM so even if you rev it out to 8k you won't see any real gains beyond where you are peaking now.

Ahhh don't say that, I was hoping for anything north of 300. Even 301. Worst case I'll have to start quoting the bhp at the wheels!
But yes your bang on, very please. Still on the orginal engine.42000miles.

 

[jeffohlen_90]

Agreed about the power figures on a stock ECU. Getting an Apexi PFC will allow you to up boost and release power into the 300s but you will lose all the safety margins incorporated in the stock ECU, not to mention the best drivability and idle control. 285 is plenty for a car no more than 1280 kgs.