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Hello, New here! After Some Advice...

Project Tiger

New member
Joined
Jan 14, 2026
Messages
5
Hi All

Seriously considering looking for an FD in the coming months (most likely Quarter 2, April onwards), doing as much research as I can with regards to what to look out for when buying/viewing etc.

Firstly, to OMP or not to OMP? What are the signs that one is giving up? If it came to it, would fitting a flow meter be viable?

Do many of you monitor EGTs and AFR? If so, what EGTs would be considered normal during a heavy pull?

EGR - common to leave it alone? I've read on here about some people's issues with emissions, granted it'd increase NOx but surely CO and HC would decrease - I'd imagine FDs have pretty high CO and HC?

Are there any good buyer's guides out there? Either written or on YouTube (although I've found a few that were just "here's where you fill the oil, here's where the fuel goes etc.) - I'm looking for common things that could be hidden from prospective buyers that haven't owned one before. - I'm also studying the manuals because I love a good schematic diagram :)

Lastly, if anyone is in the East Anglia/Cambridgeshire region that's owned one for a while and wouldn't mind meeting up for a chat that'd be greatly appreciated, happy to compensate for your time if need be - I've bought a lemon before (not a rotary) and I'm keen to not get one this time round! - if requesting meetups is against the rules then redact the last bit!

Thanks
Rory
 
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I found this a really good resource if you haven't seen it already
 
Careful what you read on the American forum. Lots of sensational rhetoric and fixing of non issues that somehow become lore and perpetuated by everyone in there to seem valid and right.

OMP's certainly have their debate points. I personally like them. Others might like to take them off and premix which means you can run a low ash clean burning 2st oil in the fuel and a synthetic oil in the sump....all good things right! On the flip side you will be changing the oil regularly enough to not really get some of the benefits that full synthetic brings and premixing can (to some) be a faff.

Do many of you monitor EGTs and AFR? If so, what EGTs would be considered normal during a heavy pull?


Really depends on level of tune and the ecu you're using. AFR's will fluctuate a bit depending on load and use in that particular moment. Monitoring them closely will probably just add anxiety when you can let the ECU (Link/Haltech) protect itself.

Generally (others chip in if I'm wrong) a good air-fuel ratio for an RX7 varies by load. Rich targets like 11.2:1 to 10:1 aren't uncommon under high boost/load for cooling and power, around 12.8:1 to 13:1 for stable idle, and leaner (but still rich compared to piston engines, maybe 13.5 -14.0:1 ) for cruising, prioritizing richness over economy for safety. Rotary engines generally need richer mixtures than piston engines for stability and to manage high combustion temperatures.
 

I found this a really good resource if you haven't seen it already
Awesome, thanks a lot
 
Careful what you read on the American forum. Lots of sensational rhetoric and fixing of non issues that somehow become lore and perpetuated by everyone in there to seem valid and right.

OMP's certainly have their debate points. I personally like them. Others might like to take them off and premix which means you can run a low ash clean burning 2st oil in the fuel and a synthetic oil in the sump....all good things right! On the flip side you will be changing the oil regularly enough to not really get some of the benefits that full synthetic brings and premixing can (to some) be a faff.

Do many of you monitor EGTs and AFR? If so, what EGTs would be considered normal during a heavy pull?

Really depends on level of tune and the ecu you're using. AFR's will fluctuate a bit depending on load and use in that particular moment. Monitoring them closely will probably just add anxiety when you can let the ECU (Link/Haltech) protect itself.

Generally (others chip in if I'm wrong) a good air-fuel ratio for an RX7 varies by load. Rich targets like 11.2:1 to 10:1 aren't uncommon under high boost/load for cooling and power, around 12.8:1 to 13:1 for stable idle, and leaner (but still rich compared to piston engines, maybe 13.5 -14.0:1 ) for cruising, prioritizing richness over economy for safety. Rotary engines generally need richer mixtures than piston engines for stability and to manage high combustion temperatures.
Appreciate your reply, I'll do further research on the OMP view (thanks for the non-biased approach!)
Agreed with the added anxiety comment, trust in a proper tune!
 
There is no EGR on UK or JDM models
It's just a USDM thing or maybe california or Canada. Either way nothing for you to worry about
 
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