JOINED! Thanks Cullen for starting Tom for starting this thread. The only difference between 3 to 4 is we've just perfected the fitment a little better. We've extended each side (so it will be proportionate vs just on side) and the results show the tight gaps!
For those who are unaware of our map lids, we've been designing and manufacturing map lids since 2014 (as we're on V4 which I believe will be the final version!).
Here are some of the design improvements:
Cracks- all the interior parts such as the map lid pocket, dash vents, etc are prone to cracking and disintegrating due to the heat making them brittle. Our solution- using a resin with the Heat Deflection temps of 230*+.
Roll pin- The plastic surrounding/plastic dowel pin tends to take a lot of friction and force causing a stress fracture in the plastic hinge. We addressed this by reinforce the area (widening and filling in the voids) and adding a metal screw in roll pin.
Spring tension- the spring tension on the cam is WAY to strong- This lies underneath the map pocket compartment. Instead we change the angle of the Cam that the spring rolls on, this relieves pressure and less "kick" when it opens and closes.
Strength- To ensure these last longer than the brittle stock plastics we have increased the thickness of the map lid by ~55% (It really works, check out our video of our lid withstand 185lbs!) In addition we filleted the inner seams to add more rigidity, much like a "rib cage" perimeter and filled in the hollow voids on the cam and thickened it.
Ease of installation- To replace the OEM lid and tension spring, it will require you to remove your door panel. This means, another chance for you to break more of that brittle plastic trim (yikes!). We designed our lid with ease of installation in mind. Simply place the lid in place, and screw in the metal screw pin from the outside and you're done!