Fireballs!

[Natec91]

So… I was having a little play earlier and during a pull it felt like I hit the limiter ( I was about 1-2k short ) followed by a huge flame, I initially thought it was the limiter until I wound it back up and it did the same thing
Now she’s running lumpy but only on idle!
The cars standard ish, I’ve not long had it only mods I can see is a big 4” back box, a CEP boost controller, an intake and hks twinspark
Surely they shouldn’t be spitting flames on a standard exhaust system?
I’m hoping some one comes along and says swap the plugs out your being paranoid!

 

[JP0893]

Mine made huge flames on standard ecu with just a backbox for mods. Still does with an apexi now just not as much. This was coming off throttle, is yours on boost doing it?

 

[Natec91]

Mine made huge flames on standard ecu with just a backbox for mods. Still does with an apexi now just not as much. This was coming off throttle, is yours on boost doing it?

Happened while I was on boost, not sure what the controller was set at as was just on auto
I’d not be being too paranoid if it wasn’t idling funny…

 

[JP0893]

Check what ecu you have, if on standard it might have hit fuel cut if it's running higher boost

Also worth checking you havnt blown off any vacuum lines or hoses, as a loose line can cause lumpy idle

 

[Natec91]

Okay will do mate thanks, if it’s hit the fuel cut what’s the score with that? Why’s it running a little off on idle just a temporary upset?

 

[jdmr_neil]

Go to the controller and turn the boost down to something that looks like standard setting. 10psi or less.

Sounds like fuel cut because boost to high and its trying to save you lunching your engine as it cant provide enough fuel.

It may be something simple like plugs or coils but worth taking boost out of the equation.

a boost controller on a standard car is dangerous and too tempting.

 

[Natec91]

Go to the controller and turn the boost down to something that looks like standard setting. 10psi or less.

Sounds like fuel cut because boost to high and its trying to save you lunching your engine as it cant provide enough fuel.

It may be something simple like plugs or coils but worth taking boost out of the equation.

a boost controller on a standard car is dangerous and too tempting.

Will do, there’s a Greddy boost gauge that’s started playing up so couldn’t get readings… although prior to that it always read around 0.8-0.9 maybe ive flicked it onto a different setting without checking what boost was set at
Thanks for the info I’ll check it all out

 

[jdmr_neil]

0.8- 0.9 is too high already for a standard ecu. It will be now a little higher on the cooler nights.
The pre 99 cars standard boost was 0.68bar and later 99+ cars was 0.78bar iirc.

Sitting around 0.7 is ideal.
0.9bar is 13psi so way over safe territory.

How's your idle now? Just hope your boost needle isn't fluttering too much in vacuum

 

[Natec91]

0.8- 0.9 is too high already for a standard ecu. It will be now a little higher on the cooler nights.
The pre 99 cars standard boost was 0.68bar and later 99+ cars was 0.78bar iirc.

Sitting around 0.7 is ideal.
0.9bar is 13psi so way over safe territory.

How's your idle now? Just hope your boost needle isn't fluttering too much in vacuum

I haven’t started it back up since I put it away last night, the boost gauge was fine when I got it needle stopping at 0.8 (in the pic) but then the other day it was sat at 0.8 and going off the gauge with very little throttle so I just assumed it had a loose connection … the zeal coil overs that came on the car are knackered I think and very crashy I put it down to them rattling a connector off the gauge
I’ll start her up once I’m back from work

 

[rob fd]

 

[Natec91]

Okay so I’ve stripped the car down past the UIM and didn’t find any suspect hoses/lines but did find a loose HT lead so I though that must have been it, replaced the plugs, gaskets etc up to where I’d got to and put it back together hoping that the lead was loose before Hand and I’d not knocked it during the strip
Turns out that’s not the issue … so whats next! What else could hitting the fuel cut/over boost have affected?

 

[Spendyrx]

As regards to idle, disconnect the iac on the back of the uim, see if there's a change, could just be the iac thats at fault! If you're still getting the boost cut issue then I'd certainly be looking at an aftermarket ecu, tbh if you're doing any modding it certainly needs to be on the cards or at least a chipped ecu if you're just using safety mods my ultimate answer is......k20 yo

 

[Natec91]

As regards to idle, disconnect the iac on the back of the uim, see if there's a change, could just be the iac thats at fault! If you're still getting the boost cut issue then I'd certainly be looking at an aftermarket ecu, tbh if you're doing any modding it certainly needs to be on the cards or at least a chipped ecu if you're just using safety mods my ultimate answer is......k20 yo

I’ll give that a whirl .. I’ve not drove it since to check for the boost cut as I didn’t want to cause any further damage
It’s going to be ported and singled early - mid next year so I’m not wanting to buy stuff that will be getting swapped out with the build, but I’d also not mind driving it until then …
If it’s the engine it can just sit and wait for next year
And hey leave the k20’s in the hondas man I’m a purist

 

[jdmr_neil]

Tbh mate easiest thing to do is just wind your boost back a touch on the boost controller. Just down to 0.6- 0.7 just to rule out boost cut.

For the idle it could simply be the usual suspects map sensor pipe, fuel filter, spark plugs etc.

If you are concerned about the compression a chuff test is pretty quick and easy. Plug out, egi out, crank it and record the sound on your phone,

 

[Natec91]

Thanks for the responses and I’m only about to get more annoying!

Right .. I’m not too concerned about it being the engine as surely it would be sketchy all through the revs and not just idling

I unplugged the IAC that just raised the revs but was still idling rough, I’ll get a smoke test booked to completely eliminate the possibility of a vac issue

Would there be any reason at all for the previous owner to snip the lambda wire?

 

[Spendyrx]

Thanks for the responses and I’m only about to get more annoying!

Right .. I’m not too concerned about it being the engine as surely it would be sketchy all through the revs and not just idling

I unplugged the IAC that just raised the revs but was still idling rough, I’ll get a smoke test booked to completely eliminate the possibility of a vac issue

Would there be any reason at all for the previous owner to snip the lambda wire?

View attachment 30058

Yeah thats not cool! Probably was running a wideband from around the middle area and just used that as the bung! Could be alot to do with your issues as your ecu now can't tell whats going on with your mix! I think I may have an old sensor here for 13b! I bought it new from bosch a few years ago, probably only done a thousand miles if that! I can post it up for 20 quid, will dig it out tomorrow if you're interested

 

[rob fd]

Yeah thats not cool! Probably was running a wideband from around the middle area and just used that as the bung! Could be alot to do with your issues as your ecu now can't tell whats going on with your mix! I think I may have an old sensor here for 13b! I bought it new from bosch a few years ago, probably only done a thousand miles if that! I can post it up for 20 quid, will dig it out tomorrow if you're interested

Are you on apexi pfc or aftermarket magement? Once you ditch the stock ecu you go to open loop fueling and don't require a lambda to run the car.

If you are on stock management and someone has increased the boost the stock ecu csnt compensate for that and will boost cut you?

First port of call would be to do a chuff test make sure you haven't lost a face.

 

[Spendyrx]

Are you on apexi pfc or aftermarket magement? Once you ditch the stock ecu you go to open loop fueling and don't require a lambda to run the car.

If you are on stock management and someone has increased the boost the stock ecu csnt compensate for that and will boost cut you?

First port of call would be to do a chuff test make sure you haven't lost a face.

I hit a boost cut in mine but was fine, but I was using the game boy and mapped it to dump in loads of fuel if I overboosted! I was a little worried when I read about boost cut on stock ecu, they're good engines, I'm certain doing it once will be fine!

 

[jdmr_neil]

Mine still ran fine above 3k tbh and drove me home from Croft, above 3k you wouldn't have known that the apex seal had damaged a rotor and housing.

The lambda looks like someone was running an aftermarket ecu, if you are not, you need that.

 

[Natec91]

Ok they must have ran an aftermarket and removed it as you say as I’m sure mine is standard (I’ll add a pic of my ecu as it is)

@Spendyrx i might as well take the sensor off your hands! ( although it WAS running and idling fine before the cut etc! )

im maybe over reacting a tiny bit regarding the idle as I don’t think its as bad as you guys are maybe thinking.. it’s just a little rougher and shakier than it was prior

I’ve a garage close by with a smoke tester and compression tester so I’ll drop it in there at the end of the week