Expected performance of a stock 99

[ascari]

When I first take the car out, after it warms up to temp, the first 2 WOT pulls clearly lack power.

From pull 3 onwards it is like a rocket, easily spinning the wheels if too heavey footed, and very responsive.

Also, the exhaust will pop sometimes, with a slightly sooty tail pipe. When I slowly pull on the drive, it would pop once maybe on deceleration.

Is this expected of a stock car? Would you expect it to be on song from 1st to last pull?

 

[Efini-dan]

The lack of power may be just down to heat soak from warming up if on standstill or the double throttle control, this feels like the turbo's missing when it's not open . It opens up when the car is up to the right temps.

 

[ascari]

The lack of power may be just down to heat soak from warming up if on standstill or the double throttle control, this feels like the turbo's missing when it's not open . It opens up when the car is up to the right temps.

When I warm it up, i'm just driving around, so that suggests the double throttle control could be the issue then? I believe they're vacuum operated, so does this suggest a failing there, or is this just normal operation?

 

[Efini-dan]

Most probably normal operation, the temperature gauge may say the car is up to temperature but it could still be off by 20°c so the ecu is still holding the butterfly shut till its actually at operating temperature.

Here's the info on the fsm

 

[welshkid]

Disconnect vacuum line to the double throttle actuator and see if it makes a difference, a lot of people remove it entirely, but you could just disconnect the vacuum source as a quick fix

 

[cib24]

Yeah, I think it's the double throttle. Stock ECU will only allow air into the primary ports until the engine is warm enough.

How long would you be driving around before flooring it in 2nd gear while rolling?

 

[ascari]

Yeah, I think it's the double throttle. Stock ECU will only allow air into the primary ports until the engine is warm enough.

How long would you be driving around before flooring it in 2nd gear while rolling?

10 mins'ish. I go by the temp gauge on the dash, which I realise is not linear (linearising it is on the list)

It's becoming clear i might not be getting the temp above 80C, as the FSM shows it needs. So i'll check the DTC actuator position after booting it.

Maybe a 15-20min warm up is needed, which surprises me for a rotary.

 

[fischer]

On warming up before giving it any welly I try not to take mine over 4k until it has been run for approx 20min

I had an RX8 quite a few years ago and done the same with that, not sure if it is right or wrong just one of my
little rotary habits.

 

[cib24]

The RX-7 warms up quick but in your case might just need a bit longer. I typically wait until I see my oil temp gauge start to move and rise towards 60 degrees. The coolant temp is often up 5-10 mins before the oil starts to move.

 

[ascari]

It was indeed the DTC, final piece of the jigsaw - many thanks

 

[JoeLanger]

Disconnect vacuum line to the double throttle actuator and see if it makes a difference, a lot of people remove it entirely, but you could just disconnect the vacuum source as a quick fix

This wouldn't work as double throttle would simply stay closed

 

[welshkid]

This wouldn't work as double throttle would simply stay closed

Got mine on the bench at the minute, they are open at atmospheric and close with vacuum applied

 

[noyzboy]

10 mins'ish. I go by the temp gauge on the dash, which I realise is not linear (linearising it is on the list)

It's becoming clear i might not be getting the temp above 80C, as the FSM shows it needs. So i'll check the DTC actuator position after booting it.

Maybe a 15-20min warm up is needed, which surprises me for a rotary.

10 mins'ish. I go by the temp gauge on the dash, which I realise is not linear (linearising it is on the list)

It's becoming clear i might not be getting the temp above 80C, as the FSM shows it needs. So i'll check the DTC actuator position after booting it.

Maybe a 15-20min warm up is needed, which surprises me for a rotary.

The in-dash temp gauge is a deceitful bit or crap. A proper additional temp gauge is essential but will also cause you to be a bag of nerves in any queue of traffic when you will be looking at nothing else.

 

[ascari]

The in-dash temp gauge is a deceitful bit or crap. A proper additional temp gauge is essential but will also cause you to be a bag of nerves in any queue of traffic when you will be looking at nothing else.

Lol, this is exactly why I'm a bit late in linearising my gauge. I'm still undecided, but it is kinda important to know temps. What kind of temp range do you find? I think the dead zone of the OEM gauge is 65C - 110C, so there must be some frightening swings of the needle.

 

[Efini-dan]

With mine, I have a power fc and I haven't seen the temperature over 85°c even after a short pull or two and in this weather, and the fans come on at 99°c when on stop or in traffic, that's the range I get once it's all up to temperature.

I do have an alloy radiator though, weather this makes a difference over the oem one I don't know.

 

[JoeLanger]

Got mine on the bench at the minute, they are open at atmospheric and close with vacuum applied

Was a long time since I removed mine!

Any car should shit at a solid temperature, if it moves a lot then thermostat is fucked. should only start to creep up with track use, even traffic should be OK with working fans