Copyninja Street FD - GT3 Build

[Copyninja]

Interesting read, however, I would like to know more about your UIM. I opted for a different UIM and LIM manifold. Would you say you UIM exceeded expectations or it was not worth the money? Or it was somewhere in the middle? Do you know the runner length of your upper and lower inlet manifold? Thanks

I've got the Turblown UIM and an excessive LIM. No idea about the runner lengths.

I do like the UIM & LIM but the real world gains are tiny like 0.2 to .3s...so it depends on what you want to do. Further you need a turbo that flows extremely well above 6krpm to take full advantage of the improved airflow up top. For me its worth it over the stock UIM as i'm doing the same 100-200s with 3-4psi less boost but this doesnt mean the turbo has more left ....it simply means the turbo is being maxxed out at a lower boost level meaning the overall VE has improved but it doesnt mean the 100-200 times will improve by a night and day difference maybe 0.3s max gains. Thus me moving to a G40 to lock in the efficiency and gains at beyond 26psi to redline or 9krpm...because the G35 maxxes out above 7krpm at 25psi and wont give any more.

The baller UIM are the Typhoon Pro Jays but this means compromising the bottom end and slight midrange for massive 25-30% top end gains. I believe Race only are doing the billet versions which look like a copy o the pro jays. Again they are not for everyone and you need a turbo which can breath at 9k rpm...so G42/G45s to take full advantage.

 

[Mir]

I do understand what you are saying, however, I guess you/I need to set up a car for an intended target i.e. track/street/drag use. I like your data driven approach, and this practice minds me of Rob Dahm, who is off course a GOAT in his own league!

Based on my research, there are plenty of variables when you move a goal post. Saying all that, runner lengths do play a major role in performance. On this topic, David M video is informative and some how explains well as to how to make the air and fuel mixture more efficient.

Blitzboy (GOAT) has a pro jay upper inlet and only time would tell how that pans out for him.

Check also Bad Cat Engineering (Justin), their videos are very informative and they also work on air flow and manifolds.

I have carefully worked on my engine's upper and lower inlet manifold and only time and data would tell, if it was a good choice or not.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers
Mir

 

[Copyninja]

I do understand what you are saying, however, I guess you/I need to set up a car for an intended target i.e. track/street/drag use. I like your data driven approach, and this practice minds me of Rob Dahm, who is off course a GOAT in his own league!

Based on my research, there are plenty of variables when you move a goal post. Saying all that, runner lengths do play a major role in performance. On this topic, David M video is informative and some how explains well as to how to make the air and fuel mixture more efficient.

Blitzboy (GOAT) has a pro jay upper inlet and only time would tell how that pans out for him.

Check also Bad Cat Engineering (Justin), their videos are very informative and they also work on air flow and manifolds.

I have carefully worked on my engine's upper and lower inlet manifold and only time and data would tell, if it was a good choice or not.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers
Mir

Thanks and look forward to see your results with your UIM and LIM. Be good to see some photos and what your goals are for your build.

 

[Copyninja]

I was feeling the urge to get back out there and test in 23-25*C ambients to see if I can run a PB. I knew testing in hotter summer conditions we had a few weeks ago was pointless like 33-35*C but 10*C cooler...would the car go faster?! I mean traction is no longer an issue....these are max traction conditions...so have to make hay while the sun shines and all that!

However, the very first thing i had to do was to figure out a quick solution to the AEM wmi system glitching out/not working. I took the molex plug out and looked at the pins and found the culprit right away. Most of the pins looks in terrible condition specially the top right 5 and 6 pins. I had a suspicious feeling these were the culprits.

Got a small flathead and pushed all pins closed to the center as year of vibrations had knocked em loose.

When i insert this back into the aem controller i could feel the difference in engagement right away....before it was soo lose but this time I could feel some resistance trying to plug the connector back in and just like that....after 3-4 test runs....the WMI system was back up and running. I've got a new connector and new termination plugs coming as no doubt this fix will fail again in a few weeks or months.

Anyways I didnt waste time...I had great warm/hot summer weather...all the traction....the only thing left was a full send....and it was time.
8500rpm nearly 92% WG DC the turbo with the Turblown UIM was not giving more than 25psi.
The below 100-200 was completed in 6.03s.

Set the WG DC to 100% above 7krpm just to see if I could get 30-32psi. Turbo said no! 25psi is where the G35 1050 has maxxed out in 23-25*C ambients. Increasing DC from 90 to 100% has not given me more boost...this data confirms the turbos maxxed out.

100-200 in 6.05s in this run. I did a few more runs and again 6.01 to 6.05 was being repeated consistently....I think if i took the BGW off i'd likely gain .2 to .3s but again...not a massive difference.

So it seems in peakish summer conditions 25*C I have maxxed out the G35 1050 on a 13b Streetport. More WG DC is not producing more power and certainly not getting me anywhere near 30-32psi to get into high 4s/low 5s.

From all the testing i've done over the years the conditions for max power to traction balance for me seems to be in the 15*19*C ambient window. I'll take the BWG back off in a few days and run it again to see if it makes a difference...however, the data confirms the G35 wont give any more boost than 25psi past 7krpm...this is the ceiling of this turbo.

In summary it will do 5.50 to 6.05s from optimal to hot heatsoaked conditions, which is still insanely quick considering what this turbo is.

Happy to call it there, yes it could do .2s faster with flat shift etc in 15-19*C conditions....but I dont think i'm gonna ask the turbo for much more. Its already provided years of fun and punched well above any right it has considering where this turbo sits.

I keep saying draggy is a cruel mistress...and once again it doesnt disappoint. It confirms 5.5 to 6s is the G35 1050 max performance bracket.

 

[Mir]

Thanks and look forward to see your results with your UIM and LIM. Be good to see some photos and what your goals are for your build.

Sure, waiting for the items to arrive. Its just going to be a decent build nothing crazy. Cheers

 

[Copyninja]

In my last post where the FD did the 6s run i forgot to add I added the BGW on in its most aggressive setting. I suspect this had an impact on performance combined with the summer heatsoak conditions.

I decided to test low boost just to see if the BWG would have an impact or not and there was only one way to find out as I had tonnes of data and reference points in different conditions at 16psi.

Without the BGW in cold optimal winter conditions with no wing the setup runs 6.7 to 6.8s range. So this is the best case scenario for the 100-200 runs at low boost around 16psi.

I changed the setting to the mid level angle of attack so its the wing sits a bit flatter to the roof line unlike the above setting which imo might have been like an airbrake!

This is the lowest and flattest setting the wing goes into.

Without the BGW in summer conditions I'm consistently running high 6.9s to 7.0s on the 16psi street map, but with the wing on its lowest setting the 100-200 drops to 7.3-7.4s so it's zapping at least 0.2 to 0.3s. Subjectively though it feels a lot more planted with it on.

Overall the 16psi setting is my favourite for back road blasts and hitting the mountain roads, properly good fun. Subjectively the wing's mid setting feels like the best compromise for street use and while it might not be ideal for outright acceleration, it's not really noticeable when you're hitting the twisties. The only reason I picked up on it is because i'm always testing and trying to understand how to maintain peformance consistency where possible. Worst case if i'm being really picking I could increase boost by 1-2 psi with the wing on to get back into the high 6/low7s terrirory.

 

[Copyninja]

Overdue some much needed maintainence for the ATS Carbon 1.5way diff and a complete brake bleed with RBF 660.

I was having issues with losing brakes after a hard 3rd to 4th gear pull which was super scary....the pattern was after a pull, it would take 3-4 taps on the brake pedal to get brakes to engage and stop the car. I pulled the new brake booster valve and inspected the one way check valve and it had failed. I had the old OEM brake booster hose so I took it apart to see how mazda has theirs setup as I never had a failure with the OEM piece.

Luckily I had a brand new spare OEM brake booster which i used and connector pipe to make it extend to fit the Turblown UIM. After bleeding the brakes...the brake pedal pressure feels amazing.

Fixed the AEM WMI issue by repinning to a new molex connector which now works without issues.

Added a 30amp fused relay to the pump while I was there.

Found boost leak number 1 - The Greddy intake elbow blanking plate failed...so I've been loosing boost pressure likely right before the TB.

Boost leak number 2 - The one way valve from brake booster to engine had failed as well which is why I was momentarily losing brakes. Plugged it back up with the OEM piece...and the brakes feel great, like new.

Buttoned it all up and ran a smoke test there was another leak. Reseated the clamp and ran it again and it seems to have fixed it.

Productive weekend keeping the FD alive: done a diff oil change, RBF660 brake flush, and new OEM booster hose, tracked down 3 boost leaks, rewired the WMI harness and dropped in a fresh set of gapped spark plugs!

Gonna try some runs when the weather gets better.

The only other thing I was thinking of to make the best of this cold weather was to swap tyres from the Cup2s to some street contact sport 7s which are rated better in most 2026 tyre tests than the Michelin PS4s.

 

[Shakeywakey]

Overdue some much needed maintainence for the ATS Carbon 1.5way diff and a complete brake bleed with RBF 660.

View attachment 45053

I was having issues with losing brakes after a hard 3rd to 4th gear pull which was super scary....the pattern was after a pull, it would take 3-4 taps on the brake pedal to get brakes to engage and stop the car. I pulled the new brake booster valve and inspected the one way check valve and it had failed. I had the old OEM brake booster hose so I took it apart to see how mazda has theirs setup as I never had a failure with the OEM piece.

View attachment 45054

Luckily I had a brand new spare OEM brake booster which i used and connector pipe to make it extend to fit the Turblown UIM. After bleeding the brakes...the brake pedal pressure feels amazing.

View attachment 45055

Fixed the AEM WMI issue by repinning to a new molex connector which now works without issues.
View attachment 45056

Added a 30amp fused relay to the pump while I was there.
View attachment 45057

Found boost leak number 1 - The Greddy intake elbow blanking plate failed...so I've been loosing boost pressure likely right before the TB.
View attachment 45058

Boost leak number 2 - The one way valve from brake booster to engine had failed as well which is why I was momentarily losing brakes. Plugged it back up with the OEM piece...and the brakes feel great, like new.
View attachment 45059

Buttoned it all up and ran a smoke test there was another leak. Reseated the clamp and ran it again and it seems to have fixed it.
View attachment 45060

Productive weekend keeping the FD alive: done a diff oil change, RBF660 brake flush, and new OEM booster hose, tracked down 3 boost leaks, rewired the WMI harness and dropped in a fresh set of gapped spark plugs!

Gonna try some runs when the weather gets better.

The only other thing I was thinking of to make the best of this cold weather was to swap tyres from the Cup2s to some street contact sport 7s which are rated better in most 2026 tyre tests than the Michelin PS4s.

CS7’s come up pretty narrow, I had them on my M3 when it have the comp wheels and they were noticeably narrower that the PS4S.

I’d go up atleast 1 size to what you think you need with them

 

[Copyninja]

CS7’s come up pretty narrow, I had them on my M3 when it have the comp wheels and they were noticeably narrower that the PS4S.

I’d go up atleast 1 size to what you think you need with them

Unfortunately the only size they come in is 265 35 18s, I couldnt find a 265/295 setup in 18s like my current cup 2s. I hope the SC7 is significantly better than the 4s in cold dry 5–10°C ambient temperatures. The downside is there isnt many options in 18s.