Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

I broke it quickly...And repeatedly...Chaste White Rebuild

Latest posts

Todays minor achievement was to sort the new fan loom.

Removed the OE 4 pin plug and changes for the new 2 pin ones.

IMG_5104.jpeg

IMG_5109.jpeg

IMG_5115.jpeg

IMG_5117.jpeg


Still in the trouble shooting and calibration phase at the moment. Awaiting on Syvecs to confirm if my rotary dials are faulty or not.

A quick look at the dash so far, apologies in advance to those who are a) welsh b) love King Charles c) homosexual.


The final pieces will arrive tomorrow - 2 x boost hoses and fittings/lines for catch can.
 
What's the issue with the rotary dials? Is it a variable voltage output thing? My cal switch does the same, I'm pulling my hair out over it. Think it is because it is a 2 wire switch and the internal pull up is not working.
Also is that a Deutsch dt connector for the fan? What's the current draw of it? I think the DT pins are rated to around 13amps. I ended up using a 4way DT on mine to be on the safe side.
 
marco said:
What's the issue with the rotary dials? Is it a variable voltage output thing? My cal switch does the same, I'm pulling my hair out over it. Think it is because it is a 2 wire switch and the internal pull up is not working.
Also is that a Deutsch dt connector for the fan? What's the current draw of it? I think the DT pins are rated to around 13amps. I ended up using a 4way DT on mine to be on the safe side.
Click to expand...
Not sure what the actual problem is yet but basically it skips position 2. Awaiting their feedback.
 
Have you taken a look at the voltages? I had the issue where the output voltages from the cal switch would drift relative to the switch set points on the calibration, so one day switch position 2 would be cal select 2, but the next day it would be cal select 3 or 4.
 
marco said:
Have you taken a look at the voltages? I had the issue where the output voltages from the cal switch would drift relative to the switch set points on the calibration, so one day switch position 2 would be cal select 2, but the next day it would be cal select 3 or 4.
Click to expand...
They’ve sent me two new switches to try.
 
I had a day off today and spent the first 4hrs of my day online with the tuner testing and calibrating which has resulted in a load of stuff to trouble shoot, love cars me. 😩

On a positive note I finished the boost control fittings and hoses.

IMG_5145.jpeg


Also managed to get the catch can lines fitted - did a wank job not ruining the AN10 fittings, turns out using two adjustable spanners isn’t a good idea with anodised fittings 😂 Job done nonetheless.

IMG_5152.jpeg

IMG_5153.jpeg


I also fitted both boost hoses as well as the two water/meth fittings so pretty much completed my to do list in the engine bay. I think it looks pretty badass personally but I may be biased.

IMG_5154.jpeg

IMG_5147.jpeg


I knew that by fitting the catch can where I did it might create issues with the air filter fitting so I’ve just ordered a new 9” K&N reducing down from current 14” one. Hopefully not more restrictive but haven’t really got too much choice with the engine layout.

As ever this car is the devil and fights me all the way so I have a fresh set of challenges.

First up the fuel pressure Reg fitting for the pressure sensor is fucked which means it’s leaking, I always knew it was risky so I’ve just ordered a new black one to replace it. I don’t fancy a fire on first start up.

My new list of shit to sort as follows;

Check MAP sensor with mitivac.
Fit new rotary switches from Syvecs.
Fuel pump 2 issue - fucked pump or wired incorrectly.
Water level sensor fault.
PDU info not showing on dash.

I think first start is a little further away than I first thought. 😂
 
Francob said:
I had a day off today and spent the first 4hrs of my day online with the tuner testing and calibrating which has resulted in a load of stuff to trouble shoot, love cars me. 😩

On a positive note I finished the boost control fittings and hoses.

View attachment 37294

Also managed to get the catch can lines fitted - did a wank job not ruining the AN10 fittings, turns out using two adjustable spanners isn’t a good idea with anodised fittings 😂 Job done nonetheless.

View attachment 37295
View attachment 37296

I also fitted both boost hoses as well as the two water/meth fittings so pretty much completed my to do list in the engine bay. I think it looks pretty badass personally but I may be biased.

View attachment 37297
View attachment 37298

I knew that by fitting the catch can where I did it might create issues with the air filter fitting so I’ve just ordered a new 9” K&N reducing down from current 14” one. Hopefully not more restrictive but haven’t really got too much choice with the engine layout.

As ever this car is the devil and fights me all the way so I have a fresh set of challenges.

First up the fuel pressure Reg fitting for the pressure sensor is fucked which means it’s leaking, I always knew it was risky so I’ve just ordered a new black one to replace it. I don’t fancy a fire on first start up.

My new list of shit to sort as follows;

Check MAP sensor with mitivac.
Fit new rotary switches from Syvecs.
Fuel pump 2 issue - fucked pump or wired incorrectly.
Water level sensor fault.
PDU info not showing on dash.

I think first start is a little further away than I first thought. 😂
Click to expand...
Rule of thumb don’t touch anything anodised with anything that exists 😂 never ever works, looking good bud! The list always gets longer! Good to see you’re still moving forward even if the goalposts have other ideas 😂 the third picture looks like the new version of the rats nest 😂
 
I hope you are all enjoying the life and times of this financial disaster these last few weeks.

It seems a case of one step forwards two back at the moment.

Another 4hrs with the tuner this morning calibrating and trouble shooting.

First up was the fuel pumps - turns out it was a simple fix to get all 3 running. The wiring guy did the logical thing and put the pump wiring to lift pump, pump one and pump 2 not realising that the actual in tank wiring was on pump 3 not 2. So a quick change by me to pump 3 saw the problem fixed. Result !

Next up fans work and staged nicely.

MAP sensor calibrated using mitivac, EGT, Air temp , Coolant temp etc all sorted too.

Now on to the issues;
1. DBW inverted so I’ve just swapped some pins hoping that will solve it. Will test tomorrow.
2. Wheel speed sensors showing at 500kph and spiking - odd one. All wires are shielded.
3. Tested water level sensor which looks to be failed - ordered a new one.
4. PDU info still not sharing to dash - suggests CAN comms wiring issue.
5. Rotary switch fault - Syvecs sent me a new set FOC which I just need to swap and test.

Should be back on with tuner over the next few days. It’s looking likely that car will need to go back to wiring guy for a few changes and some trouble shooting.

In other news I bought a 9” filter instead of the larger 14”. Although it looks good being new I’ve decided I needed the 12” because everyone knows an extra 3” makes all the difference 😂 It should be here tomorrow.

IMG_5181.jpeg


Look out for the next instalment of my financial disaster. 👍😘
 
Not much happening today as work has been pretty busy and waiting on a few parts. The water level sensor and bigger air filter should arrive tomorrow.

I did manage to quickly fit the new FPR tonight though. No more leaks and a black one matches the colour theme a bit better. I did have to keep the blue fittings though. 😂

IMG_5186.jpeg

IMG_5187.jpeg

IMG_5188.jpeg
 
Turns out the 12” is perfect / will send the 9” back.

That’s the engine bay complete barring spacing the strut brace a little higher.

IMG_5195.jpeg
 
Francob said:
Turns out the 12” is perfect / will send the 9” back.

That’s the engine bay complete barring spacing the strut brace a little higher.

View attachment 37342
Click to expand...
Nice mate, did the same with my fpr also, think I used the Oem bracket mount there 😂 not like it’s going anywhere, think I need to get rid of the cruise stuff in the top left like yours makes it look so much neater and more spacious
 
Francob said:
The amended ignition leads turned up from Magnecore yesterday and fit well so happy with that.

I’ve completed 75% of the boost control set up. The tuner uses two MAC valves to control top and bottom of gate but unfortunately one of my MAC valves is broken so a new one is on order. Be here this week hopefully.

View attachment 37223
View attachment 37224

This is how they are set up - need to add a few bungs to boost hose for the MAC valves to fit into.

View attachment 37225

View attachment 37226

As I’m going to be running a 90% mix of meth I bought some decent measuring beakers. It’s an 8.2 litre tank so better to have some decent containers etc for filling, testing and emptying.

View attachment 37227

Catch can fitted too, just need to buy some lines and fittings for this now, looks neat and tidy.

View attachment 37222

The water fitting that had been leaking has been drilled and tapped to M12, I just need to go and buy a grub screw/bolt tomorrow and pray that it seals it ok.

With any luck first start this week.
Click to expand...
Looking forward to seeing this go.
Please read this and then read it again.

How to properly setup an oil catch can (Bumpstarts Guide) - AusRotary

www.ausrotary.com
Good luck.
 
Adam made me double check and question the catch can set up but I think I’m going to run with what I have for the time being and see how it behaves. At first I didn’t think the catch can had a filter but Radium have designed a larger filter on top built in as shown in yellow.

IMG_5209.jpeg


I’ve swapped over the silicone vacuum hose to the FPR for an AN4 line instead.

IMG_5212.jpeg
IMG_5211.jpeg


In ECU/config related news it turns out the water level sensor was not working but I managed to source one locally which has fixed the issue.

IMG_5192.jpeg


The other issue we were having was the DBW being inverted, swapping two pins over at the throttle body has solved that issue so that’s sorted now too. Still a few issues with wheel speed sensors and PDU data being sent to dash, hopefully have this resolved this week.

Finally I’m sending the clutch switch to Matt at LMW to knock up the correct plug/loom.

IMG_5218.jpeg
 
I’ve sent centre console back to wiring shop to have the new Syvecs switches swapped out plus the clutch switch loom sorted so I can incorporate flat shifting. These should be back with me Thursday.

df318926-3abe-48b4-8178-7f895f662f5c.jpeg

087f359a-d67d-436e-ad02-d5f7d3824879.jpeg


The tuner and I are going to spend some time tomorrow checking ign/spark (CDI) and crank sensor, basically as many checks as possible as the car is likely going to have to go back to have the wheel speed sensor wiring amended due to interference from the fuel pumps.

The plan is to get the car up off all four wheels and double check tomorrow. I even had to buy a new jack today as my last one shit itself leaving fluid everywhere, luckily I always use axle stands. If we do encounter any other issues though at least they can be resolved back at the wiring shop rather than me attempting it at home.

The ECU needs to go back to Life Racing to have the board amended for my CANBUS requirements too and whilst it’s there they’ve agreed to update my dash as well. I’d hazard a guess this is going to put the first start back by a few weeks. Oh well, keep plugging away. 😁
 

Online statistics

Members online
3
Guests online
2,583
Total visitors
2,586
Totals may include hidden visitors.

Trending content

Back
Top