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Fireballs!

Ok they must have ran an aftermarket and removed it as you say as I’m sure mine is standard (I’ll add a pic of my ecu as it is)

@Spendyrx i might as well take the sensor off your hands! ( although it WAS running and idling fine before the cut etc! )

im maybe over reacting a tiny bit regarding the idle as I don’t think its as bad as you guys are maybe thinking.. it’s just a little rougher and shakier than it was prior

I’ve a garage close by with a smoke tester and compression tester so I’ll drop it in there at the end of the week

View attachment 30062
Hey man sorry, had a look, I must have sold it, it was an old wideband sensor 😩
 
Ok they must have ran an aftermarket and removed it as you say as I’m sure mine is standard (I’ll add a pic of my ecu as it is)

@Spendyrx i might as well take the sensor off your hands! ( although it WAS running and idling fine before the cut etc! )

im maybe over reacting a tiny bit regarding the idle as I don’t think its as bad as you guys are maybe thinking.. it’s just a little rougher and shakier than it was prior

I’ve a garage close by with a smoke tester and compression tester so I’ll drop it in there at the end of the week

View attachment 30062
Yeah don't panic, there's always the thought of blown seals but tbf they're real strong engines considering how much of a bad rep they have!
 
Ahh no worry’s mate 👍🏼
I ain’t too fussed if it is a blown seal as it’ll just sit wait until it’s ported but if it’s something minor I’d rather sort it and have a few sunny days out in the car!
But mrs loves reminding me … “you said you wanted a project” 😂
 
Okay so been in and tested today …
No boost leaks ( don’t think he smoke tested it just used a boost system pressuriser)
He ran a compression test and the front rotor was 100psi but the rear was 20psi 😰
I take it this is a definite rebuild on the cards??
 
Okay so been in and tested today …
No boost leaks ( don’t think he smoke tested it just used a boost system pressuriser)
He ran a compression test and the front rotor was 100psi but the rear was 20psi 😰
I take it this is a definite rebuild on the cards??
Oh dear! One letter and 2 nos i believe is called for right now!!!!!
K20 🤣
Ah sad to hear though, not a great start to fd ownership but you build that to the spec you want it now and you'll have no bother for the next 10 years I can guarantee it 😁
 
Oh dear! One letter and 2 nos i believe is called for right now!!!!!
K20 🤣
Ah sad to hear though, not a great start to fd ownership but you build that to the spec you want it now and you'll have no bother for the next 10 years I can guarantee it 😁
Thanks mate 🙄😂
Ahh it was fun for the 2 weeks it ran fine! Would be a lot handier if Stu / rotor torque weren’t 300miles away… I’ll have to get in touch and see when they’re next available

now to figure out what goodies will be best for the single and bridge 😁
Thanks for all the help leading towards my misfortune!
 
Yeah that sucks mate but it happens to the best of us. Unfortunately i think most of us on here suspected a blow motor every symptom you listed was synonymous with the loss of a rotor. It was only a matter of time running increased boost on a stock ecu, surprised it lasted 2 weeks tbf, you did quite well in that respect lol.
 
Yeah that sucks mate but it happens to the best of us. Unfortunately i think most of us on here suspected a blow motor every symptom you listed was synonymous with the loss of a rotor. It was only a matter of time running increased boost on a stock ecu, surprised it lasted 2 weeks tbf, you did quite well in that respect lol.
Haha thanks mate… we live and learn! I didn’t realise 0.8 bar was that high but obviously it is on a standard ecu I thought it would be normal as it ran that pressure with the controller on or off
 
0.8 isn't high mate its just the oem ecu can't deal with any boost increases, runs lean, det, dead.
Most twins now run 1 bar + but it's always on an aftermarket ecu

Singles run whatever they like but again with all the correct supporting mods.
 
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