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Digital Dash Install

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Chris_Ward

Active member
Joined
Jan 12, 2018
Messages
118
Note: This one straddles both Interior and Electrical/ICE, but this felt a better fit, however if the mods feel it should be over there please feel free to move it.

I've been having a few different conversations with people on PMs, most in depth with @tomCTR, about how I fitted my dash, and thought it might be better to put a post about fitting a dash out in the open so others can either learn from it, or add to it with their ideas, suggestions or experience.

Although I will use a Race Technology Dash2 in my examples, there are alot of dashes available from the likes of AEM, AiM, Autometer, Haltech, Racepak, Stack, etc. and the process will be fundamentally the same for all of them.


Mounting
There are alot of options here, from the simple to the extreme:
Mazda-RX7-Racepak-Haltech-01.jpg

DSC01703.JPG

IMG_0955.jpg


That said, I feel for most people smoothing out a panel you already have will be the best starting point. Now if you want to see a professional do it please see the following links:

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

For smoothing my dash, I did similar to the linked articles, but where he used ABS discs and plastic blond/glue, I just used fibreglass and resin, but the rest of it was the same:

1) I Didn't take a picture of the first step, which was trimming down the gauge holes, then putting take across the front to hold the fibreglass and resin.

2) Once the tape is removed you need to start the process of smoothing. Here was my first pass of filler.
rebuild132.jpg

3) Sanded down. Getting closer.
rebuild133.jpg

4) Second pass of filler.
rebuild134.jpg

5) Sanded off the second pass then covered in UPOL Plastix. In retrospect I would have used this instead of filler in the early stages, as this has more inherent flexibility in it.
rebuild135.jpg

6) All smooth after the various filler stages.
rebuild136.jpg

7) Coat of primer to confirm it's smooth.
rebuild137.jpg


From this point you have various choices. You can bolt the digital dash on the front of your panel, you can sink the dash into the panel, or you could cut an opening for a bigger panel holding the dash and any buttons you need. For my own dash I went with sinking the dash in with a carbon panel behind:
rebuild142.jpg


I finished my dash in Halfords Truck bedliner to give it a textured finish, and for that it's great, but it doesn't seem as hard wearing as I'd like, so if I was to do it again I would probably put paint over the top to try and seal it.

For mounting the dash, again you have different options, though the main two will be:

1) Mounting to the panel itself using tabs
fdrx7028_zpsc7b08885.jpg

fdrx7029_zps3288ffcc.jpg

2) Mounting it to the existing housing
mounting1.jpg

mounting2.jpg


So that should get you to the point of having your digital dash physically mounted in your car. Other items I would call out, are that some of the better selling digital dash manufacturers sell vac formed or cast panels ready to accept their dashes like this:
800-MB-IQ3-PAL_01.jpg

Obviously if they do one for your dash, flushing this into your gauge panel will make your job alot easier.
 
Wiring
For wiring this will obviously vary dependent on how you want to fit your dash, and what dash you have. It's best to start with a pin out for your dash, and then work out which wires you need for the various warning lights and senders you want to use. As an example this is what I started with for my Dash:

DASH2toRX7Pinout.jpg

As you can see I worked out which dash connector pins I needed to pick up from, and I also listed out the senders (top right). For my application I was using an Adaptronic ECU so was going to have a serial connection from the ECU to the dash taking most of the required info across, so all I needed was the warning lights, and also the fuel sender pickup for my Stack gauge.

Once you have this information you can choose how you want to connect. When I had my RX8 dash in the car in my first shell, I hardwired the dash plugs to the loom, but when I re-shelled the car and went back to the RX7 dash I decided to take a different approach. For this I decided to wire the dash connectors to the gauge panel so it could be removed and a stock dash re-installed should the need arise. To do this I cleaned off the copper PCB and then put a screw through with a ring terminal. You can see one in this picture:
wiring.jpg


I then ran the wiring through the old large bulb holes to the front where the dash plugs were:
wiring1.jpg


I also had to run the button wiring across the front panel to meet up with this, which I put into a weatherseal connector:
wiring2.jpg


Hopefully these pointers will be helpful starting points for anyone attempting this.

As I said at the start, this is how I've done it, I'm not saying it's the right way, or the only way to do it, it's purely here to document my experience, and hopefully trigger conversation with others and share and increase the knowledge available on the forum.
 
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Glad you started a thread Chris as no doubt I never would have ?

I like what you have done with sinking yours onto the oem meter panel, would never have thought of that.

With my I got the digital display unit and a loom made for the previous owner of the display.

But I could work out which wire was which and had to cut them loom down relabel and start again.

I’m just getting the wiring worked out and right, so have temp mounted the control buttons up on the standard cluster face before it gets filled and display mounted on the future however I decided to do it.

Currently wiring the display up so have indicators working, full beam indicator, brake warning light (permantly on when I wired it so will have to check) need to sort the bloody alt warning wiring out.. that’s my problem to tackle next!

Ignore the missing down sticker ?
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Very nice, The fuel gauge is a proper faff, I had to buy a convertor from USA to get it to work correctly on the Aim.
 
Nice write up Chris, very helpful

Did you wire the fuel level into 5v reference wire and the fuel low to an analogue into wire?
 
Nice write up Chris, very helpful

Did you wire the fuel level into 5v reference wire and the fuel low to an analogue into wire?
I've got a stack programmable for my fuel gauge so I only had to take the feed wire from the cluster for that.
 
Ah, very nice. Mine tells me the lt left on the digi dash. Had to calibrate it by hand (every 5lt)
 
Ah, very nice. Mine tells me the lt left on the digi dash. Had to calibrate it by hand (every 5lt)

I’ve seen people have said that, it says that on the install guides, fill tank from empty every 5l and record reading etc
 
I did look at getting one of these when I was considering putting the fuel level in the dash:

Iron Canyon Fuel Sender

That’s clever that, and probably what I need. Can you still use the stock fuel sensor in the tank?

What’s the FD ohm range, I’m sure I read it was 7.4 full and 95 on empty tank when carrying out a quick google search
 
That’s clever that, and probably what I need. Can you still use the stock fuel sensor in the tank?

What’s the FD ohm range, I’m sure I read it was 7.4 full and 95 on empty tank when carrying out a quick google search

I was going to connect it in-line on the existing sensor wiring, so yes retaining the stock sensor.

For values this is from the 1994 Electrical Troubleshooting manual:
94_Fuel_Values.jpg
 
That’s clever that, and probably what I need. Can you still use the stock fuel sensor in the tank?

What’s the FD ohm range, I’m sure I read it was 7.4 full and 95 on empty tank when carrying out a quick google search

That is what I'm using, can dig out the measurements I used for the calibration table in the dash.
 
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