Updating the sequential system (no I can't go single yet)

skyactivr

Active member
Hi all,

As the next time the engine bay is stripped of intake will be the THIRD time, with a view to it being the LAST time, I want to know if there's anything I can do to update my sequential system while I'm in there. It's all coming out and being tested this time as in the 3 years I've had this car I've never experienced what it should be like and I'm getting rather burned about it.

Is there a set of new decent solenoids I can buy, and relocate them? All the hoses have been replaced. Is there any modern substitutes for the ABV and CRV (if they're faulty)? etc etc etc...

Bear in mind I ain't rich, and I would preferably like it to just bloody work. Lol

Any ideas other than 'go single' are welcome, single will come one day in the distant future if we aren't all banned from petrol
 

skyactivr

Active member
Do you have any issues at the minute?
Yep, primary boost is good but not what it should be, soon as secondary gets in range it just sort of trails off to basically no boost near redline.
Very rarely, but still a weird issue - sometimes taking off from traffic lights i'll have no boost whatsoever... Change up to second, and bam it comes on, and then insert the above for the remainder of the rev range. It's never worked correctly.
 

welshkid

Well-known member
This is more of a brain dump than constructive advice but:

There was a guy on here (or facebook maybe, sorry can't remember specifics) in the UK that replaced all the solenoids with MAC ones and mounted them on the firewall, probably much more reliable than stock. I think if you go for genuine mac valves you are looking at around Ā£50 per valve, so not particularly cheap. You could also just remote mount your oem solenoids too, just need more vacuum line and to extend the wiring.
Lots of people are using midland turbo for rebuilds and billet wheel upgrades etc too.
Go for an aftermarket downpipe if you don't already have one
More modern ecu that can have tighter control over the twins (haltech pnp kit etc, but definitely not cheap and not going to get much performance for it)
99 spec, y-pipe and cross over (metal instead of plastic parts)
If you've got it stripped fairly bare, could get your injectors out and cleaned/flow tested. Also could look at aftermarket FPR


Cheap/free mods:
Port your wastegate
Hot test your solenoids, heat them in the oven, then give them 12V + GND, and check they still click nicely (I've had some work fine at room temp, but fail at engine bay type temps)
Simplified sequential setup
Inspect and buzz through your wiring harness to check the solenoids are getting connection to ecu/12v etc



You could also go non-sequential but it seems to be worst of all worlds to me.
 

jack.am

Well-known member
AFAIK nobody has used modern solenoids to replicate the rats' nest, nor relocated them. You could probably use a normal recirculating blow-off valve to do the CRV's job.
 
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MKZ7212

Well-known member
Santapod
Real Name
Mark
Have a look at the links below
 
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skyactivr

Active member
This is brilliant all, thank you very much. Just got to that point where you just feel lost and need a point in the right direction.

I have strongly considered simplified sequential, however I'm a little confused as it seems to remove the switching solenoid, which I'm pretty sure I read somewhere is related to the air pump, which I still have as I'm on the orig ECU and have a hi flo.

One day the car will get a PFC and all the other stuff but the misses wants a house first šŸ˜Š mainly looking to get this seq working and actually experience how the car is meant to be for now (its never been right).

I knew that solenoid relocation one was knocking around somewhere. Couldn't remember where šŸ‘
 
Im assuming you have checked that both boost pills are there? For the wastegate and pre control actuators. Just sounds like ur issue was like mine and I had no wastegate pill, put one in and sorted.
 
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Rob82

Active member
I had a weird fault with mine years ago, you could boot it and get both turbos, change gear and it would be flat, no boost, lift off for a few seconds and boot it again and you'd get both turbos. Did the usual, replaced the rats nest etc. Ended up being the one of the actuators sticking, from memory it was the turbo control actuator stuck, Manually operated it, it free'd off, some water came out of the pivot, guessing condensation had gathered inside. Operated it a few times until if moved freely and it's been fine ever since. That was about 8 years ago. Duno if this might help.
 
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jdmr_neil

Well-known member
Tbh, my first year with my fd i chased seq problems and it all really came down to more flow on the oem ecu. It is just not suited to change and due to the sensitivity rotaries have to lean conditions it is adjusting things.

A pfc and tune fixed mine after 11 months of my searching the Internet uselessly. It was fixed in 20 mins and i never really had any further problems again for many many years.

Get a new ecu and a map mate, a bit of an outlay but worth it all day long.
 

skyactivr

Active member
Tbh, my first year with my fd i chased seq problems and it all really came down to more flow on the oem ecu. It is just not suited to change and due to the sensitivity rotaries have to lean conditions it is adjusting things.

A pfc and tune fixed mine after 11 months of my searching the Internet uselessly. It was fixed in 20 mins and i never really had any further problems again for many many years.

Get a new ecu and a map mate, a bit of an outlay but worth it all day long.
I'll get round to it, might have to have a chat with the misses... šŸ˜‰ Can't wait to get one tho.

Just out of interest... How stiff to move should the TCA and pre control rods be? I've got some sort of access (limited) but I literally can't move them back or forth (by the rod itself). I've checked the pill hoses and they're OK.
 

Rob82

Active member
My turbo control actuator was seized solid, had the lever it pretty hard with a big screwdriver, there was a crack noise, water leaked out of the pivot, once it free'd off it moved pretty easily levering it with a screwdriver. If it's not easy to move I'd say there's a good chance its stuck.
 
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skyactivr

Active member
My turbo control actuator was seized solid, had the lever it pretty hard with a big screwdriver, there was a crack noise, water leaked out of the pivot, once it free'd off it moved pretty easily levering it with a screwdriver. If it's not easy to move I'd say there's a good chance its stuck.
I'm giving it another go in a minute but that seems to be the case here. It just seems mad as I do HAVE boost, but if they're not moving I'd expect no boost at all. Very strange.
 

Rob82

Active member
Depends if the are stuck closed or open, if you can get hold of a mini vac, you could pull the pipes off, connect the mini vac and pressurise them one at a time and see if they move.
 
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