Hi sorry it's been sometime since I posted as due to life and other things going on I have not had much time for the 7. So I hope it's going to change I have started thinking of things to upgrade over the OEM items and started with.
As we have had two quite hot years for a rotary will a 27 year old one on standard cooling I my case. I thought the cooling would be a good place to start this winter so expect a lot of help being called for as if it can go wrong it will in my case.
Hi All, seen that every one from the MRC and FDUK have nearly all moved over here. I have started to move my thread over from there to here. So here is a time line of my FD3 from when I got her back in 2008 I hope it doesn't boor to much
When I bought the FD it was with my heart not the head! seen it on the Autotrader up in County Durham so had the long drive up there to have a look. Test drive was ok she had no service history no compression test or rebuild history!!!! but she started fine HOT and cold and needed some TLC as there was bits missing cracked and smashed reflectors so I had to have her! and bring her back to how these cars should be.
Here are the advert shots. from Autotrader.
She might have been owned by somebody on here as she had been in the country since 2004.
Well after the drive back and watching the temp gauge all the way home
all was well she never missed a beat. I had to phone the guy up from the petrol station on the way home to find out how to open the filler flap
The next few days I was getting hold of the parts I needed and booked her in at WGT I wanted Pip to give his honest opinion to see if it's a good FD or a bad FD. Well the news came in about 1hr after I dropped her off. Compression ok 6.5 to 6.9 just needed brakes all round, back box, shocks, and a major service. Not bad for a buy with the heart and I have got a nearly standard FD that's been modified.
Not long after I was out for a drive and was giving it a good blast and noticed that the second turbo was coming it at around 6k
after checking on here and the MRC that's not right. So back to Pip for a look turned out the CAT was knackered and there was a break in the loom.
So CAT replaced with a silent mid pipe and now second turbo coming it at the right time 4k.
Well first MOT time since I have owned her booked her in at Lindop Motorsport (Silverstone Motorsport or whatever they are called now) and had the fit a Apexi ECU with Commander needed anti-roll bar linkages and we are good to go.
Then booked in at WGT for mapping then it was off to the Nurburgring
This year there was no mods just driving but then I found these going for free over on the MRC.
Cloth RX8 manual seats in mint condition so I will be going to fit them at some point I have seen over on the RX7Club.com that some guy has done this and I also noticed an FD at Rotorstock 10 last year had them fitted. So it could be easy or hard? but I will find out when I get a welder!
2013 also seen the wife's RX8 get PX ed for a Mazda 3 Sport 2.2D after 7 years of services in the family as her new meant she had a long journey to work.
I have got hold of these Tein Flex Control Master and ploy roll bar bushes as I noticed last year that there was play in them as well as the track rod ends. Plus a load of service parts that I have been waiting to do.
Next was the rear shocks, out with Blisteins that have been on for nearly 4 years ( these were only to be temporary when I got them ) with my new Tein's. I remembered to measure the height of the centre of the wheel to the arch before jacking her up so I can set the ride height.
Did not think that there was this must difference between the two types.
All fitted and torqued up it was quite an easy swap over usually when I set out to do work like something always goes wrong.
Rear Wheels back on now and ready to lower off the stands.
I was quite made up when I dropped the jack as the change over went really well and fast only took me 2hrs. The ride height was the same as the old shocks which surprised me?
I will be starting the front tomorrow if the weather holds. There is a little more work on the front as I have the Track Rod Ends, Anti-Roll Bar Bushes and the Shocks hopefully it will go as smooth as the rear.
Got the front end jacked up and on the stands. Removed the under tray and started spraying WD40 on the bolts for the anti-roll bar brackets. They looked really scabby and I was expecting the bolt to shear.
But luckily them came lose ok with my big torque ratchet.
This is the drivers side which I noticed some play in it last year before putting her away for winter.
All done back together and torqued up. Again it was as easy as the back I was quite surprised by this god know how much a garage would charge.
Now it's time for the shocks out with the old and in with the new.
Started with the drivers side sprayed all the nuts with WD40 and removed the bracket holding the ABS wire. Some write ups on the net say to remove your ABS sensor but you do not need to do this.
I found that using your scissor jack under your brake disc to support the hub when you remove the top wish bone bolts really helps when taking out the shock. It also comes in for fitting the new one which is shorter as you can just raise it up into the top mounts.
Pretty much the same as the drivers side apart from this time when I loosened the shock top mount bolts I had a hard time getting the lower bolt out!
Which when removed (hammer and punch) the shock wedged itself in the lower wishbone! Out with the coil springs and then try to compress the shock to get it out of the lower mount.
After a bit of swearing and brute force I managed to get it out.
New one in and torqued up she is ready to come off the stands so it's wheels on and down she comes.
All done for the shocks and anti-roll bar bushes I'm quite made up that it has gone to plan with no major problems at all. Just have to do the service and track rod ends now and she should be good to go once I have been to Pip's and get the alignment done and set-up the shocks.