Front and rear subframe collars

What dimensions are they. I'd even look at using something like this (they are used in press tooling) :

Shoulder Bolts, Screws & Nuts

We have a wide selection of shoulder screws to meet your requirements, including shoulder bolts for injection moulding, all made from quality materials. Next day delivery , UK supplier.
www.berger-tools.co.uk www.berger-tools.co.uk

Then make a copper washer for the crush washer.
 
shaunwil said:
What dimensions are they. I'd even look at using something like this (they are used in press tooling) :

Shoulder Bolts, Screws & Nuts

We have a wide selection of shoulder screws to meet your requirements, including shoulder bolts for injection moulding, all made from quality materials. Next day delivery , UK supplier.
www.berger-tools.co.uk www.berger-tools.co.uk

Then make a copper washer for the crush washer.
Click to expand...

not certain of the dimensions but looks like a good idea
 
It's as much a case that you return the frame in to the same position after you have removed it.

Everything has a tolerance and this clearance is also to guarantee that they always fit together.

Once its clamped up it shouldn't really go anywhere. That is why there is adjustment there in the first place.
 
shaunwil said:
It's as much a case that you return the frame in to the same position after you have removed it.

Everything has a tolerance and this clearance is also to guarantee that they always fit together.

Once its clamped up it shouldn't really go anywhere. That is why there is adjustment there in the first place.
Click to expand...

Theres also the locating dowels to line it up.
 
So not really much point then. I could half understand the copper washers just to give a better seat between the mating faces.

Probably not as important as other cars.
 
The info on spoons website looks interesting and I can see where they are coming from.

I've worked on cars that have a lot of play in those bolts, but yeah FD has locating pins so maybe it's not that big a deal?

However I would not be paying that money for some aluminium. I'd be taking measurements and making (or getting made) my own, very simple to make on the lathe.

Also galvanic corrosion on the steel with the ally.
 
From memory the alignment dowels do not offer a consistent fit for the subframes, they purely aid the marriage of the drivetrain to the body (assembly line) so the bolts will always go in. Embarrassingly my front subframe became loose at Spa once. On hard cornering it shifted enough to notice the change on the steering wheel down the next straight. In terms of alignment during assembly, unless you plan to take the subframes out on a regular basis, just fit them in a consistent manner. Fully rearward/forward or centrally so you have an even gap around the bolts and dowels. Properly torqued, its not going anywhere though and you should not be using a bolt in shear anyway, only tension(clamping load).

On a side note (assuming this thread is about ultra accurate alignment), just because the computer gives you a number in minutes, I personally don't think the accuracy/consistency matches the resolution. Unless you have metal rose joints everywhere then there will always be inconsistency in suspension arm and rack bushes. I've had the car aligned, removed and then refitted instantly and the numbers weren't even close to the original setup. I mostly use tyre wear as feedback and have done a bit of alignment myself. I think alignment sheets are a bit of a placebo some of the time.
 
Copyninja said:
have you got any pics of or is there a build thread on this?
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I can only find photos of the front subframe when I removed it, non of the rear I'm afraid.
You can see I have sorted the underside though, stripped cleaned, painted and rebuilt on my drive. Craig at TGS fabricated the front under-tray, exhaust up to the jap cannon, swirl pot and guard as well as a f**k load other stuff in he engine bay, can't recommend those guys enough.


JK fd underside.jpeg
 
JDK said:
Theres also the locating dowels to line it up.
Click to expand...
Thise locating dowels are not a snug fit into the chassis. There is still play. These keep it centred. I’m not saying they are needed at all, but in theory you could do a full alignment then drop the subframe and it would go back in exactly the same place.
 
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